I'm told the pitman arm, draglink, tie rod ends, etc. are superior with the 78-79 models. Can someone explain that?

 

2WD or 4WD .. Regular Cab or Super Cab .. M/S or P/S .. Under 8,100 lbs. GVW?

 

Hello ND: The truck is regular cab with p/s, under 8,100 lbs, with dual piston calipers. 2x4

 

Draglink is the same 1973/79 F250 2WD except with 6,200 lbs. GVW with single piston caliper disc brakes.

Pitman Arm is the same 1973/79 F100/250 2WD Regular & Super Cab with P/S under 8,100 lbs. GVW / D2TZ-3590-B - Marked: D2TA-3590-BA

R & L tie rods same 1975/79 F250 2WD except with single piston caliper disc brakes.

There are no specific 1978/79 part numbers with any of these parts, so who you got this info from...had no clue!

 

Thanks, ND, it is always good to confirm info gathered on the forum. Again, you kept me from lightening my wallet.

 

You may have heard or read something that was originally in reference to the hugely improved steering linkage design on a '78/'79 F150 4X4 versus the older '77 and back 4X4s.

If so .... it did not apply to 2X4 trucks.

Those 4X4s all used solid front axles which did not vary in length with suspension movement .... but up through 1977 Ford steered them with "inverted Y" style steering linkage that works great with twin I beams that have steering knuckles at the ends swinging through arcs because then distances between knuckles is not "fixed" at a certain distance, it's constantly moving in and out.

With a solid front axle, tie rod ends swing through arcs mean constant toe changes mean wandering trucks mean wearing tires .... in 1978 Ford made it rioght when they redid the steering linkage on the 4X4s.

But your's is a 2X4, that long straight tie rod setup will not work any better on your twin I beam setup than the old inverted Y setup will on a solid axle. That "inverted Y" setup will track as well as anything with twin I beam front suspension. As a part time (Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and other as needed) driver I probably put a hundred thousand miles on some several '70s model F-350s with the same basic set up with loads and lightly loaded hauling mail for a contract carrier back in the '70s on both US Rt 29 between Lynchburg & Danville, Va. and also on the back roads to the smaller post offices between and those trucks drive great when parts are in good shape.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ring-swap.html

 

Thanks for the info. I believe you have explained it. I must say, though, I'm a bit disappointed. I've been through the entire steering and still end up with very tight bump steering, which feels like being a pen ball between bumpers when at speed. I have free play from about 2-3 minutes before the hour on the steering wheel, to about the same after the hour. I was hoping the later model linkage would solve my problems.

I believe I shall have to revisit my king pins--replaced 8 years ago.

Thanks for all the help.

 

1969/79 F100/250 2WD & F350 with Ford/Saginaw P/S as original:

The 3 bolts that retained the gearbox to the frame were too short, Ford didn't use locking nuts. The nuts backed off, the gearbox began to wiggle, the frame CRACKED!

Ford dealer fixum: Weld crack, weld sheet metal over crack, install longer grade 8 bolts and locking nuts.

 

Thanks for pointing that out, ND. Fixing that was my most recent project. I found holes enlarged, drilled them out to diameter of thick wall tubing, welded tubing in place, and used nice long grade 8 bolts with crimp nuts. It cut way down on free play, but left me with still tight bump steer that scares me at speed.

 

Bump steer, also known as brake judder. Step on the brake, the steering wheel shakes so bad, you can lose your grip.

The usual cause: Warped rotors. Turn the rotors, the blue heat spots disappear, but soon reappear, as once a rotor is warped, it's warped for life.

The only fix: Replace the rotors.

 

Nope, that's not quite it. My issue happens w/o brakes being applied. I have free play in my steering wheel. If the circle of my steering wheel travel were a clock, between 2-3 minutes before noon, and 2-3 minutes after, I have free play.To control the vehicle I have to get the wheel to either point. Hence the term 'bump steer.' I am 'bumping the wheels right or left. Sometimes, if I bump too much, I rush back to the opposite side to bump back the other way, and while on the freeway I am bouncing or 'bumping' right/left/right like a pen ball between bumpers.

I believe the truck was less scary when I had a mile of free play in the steering. And about $1,000 more in my wallet from all the parts I have purchased trying to rid myself of the problem.

 

Think of all the money you're saving by not making payments on a new truck!

Replace the steering gearbox with a rebuilt from redheadsteeringgears.com (Seattle WA).

The so-called auto parts store 'rebuilts' are nothing more than resealed gearboxes.

The Ford/Saginaw P/S gearbox has a flaw, there are no bearings on the sector shaft, it rides directly on the housing. Before too long, fluid begins leaking from the sector shaft seal.

Red Head takes the housing, machines it and installs the bearings that Ford omitted...on purpose, so they could sell a gazillion sector shaft seal kits.

 

ND: Installing the Redhead box did eliminate quite a bit of the free play. The other things I rebuilt or replaced (bushings, column, rag joint, king pins, all linkages, etc) have reduced the play by bits. And still I am left with just enough to make it interesting and frustrating. There remains just enough to make it slightly dangerous.

Once the engine is out, it is time to take a long hard look at the cross member rivets (loose), and the part of the wheel/rotor mechanism that the ball tie rod ends mount in.

 

Steering column lower bearing replaced yet? And if it is a 1/2 ton, steering shaft rag joint, F250 the steering shaft might be the culprit? Borgson makes a nice set up.

 

OP (F-250 restorer) is working on a 1975 F250 2WD that does not have a lower steering shaft and coupler. Only 4WD's have it, so the OP won't have any need for a Borgeson shaft.

And, if you had read thru the OP's posts thoroughly, you would have seen he already replaced the rag joint (post 13)...which is D5TZ-3A525-A SAME: 1975/77 F100/150/250 2WD & F350 with P/S.

Worn lower bearing would not cause 'bump steer.'