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Crossing over 4 lane one way street to take a left. Pulled out and a guy comes flying through traffic doing about sixty in on thirty five speed limit street (welcome to Houston). Ran it up to 5000 rpm. Let off the gas, got on the brakes and took the left.
When I got to the stop sign one block over the truck was kinda stumbling at idle. Got to the house about 4 blocks away. Truck would barely idle. Died when I got out to open the gate. Fired it back up stuttering and stumbling and pulled it inside the gate.
Had to work on a mirror frame and just went on about my business after finishing it up.
When I fired it up in the morning it was not running right. Idled up to about 1500 rpm suttered, stumbled and dropped to about 500 rpm. Idle going up and down. Popped the hood and it now has an exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold to catalytic converter section of the exhaust. Exhaust smells really weird and it "pops" with a plastic thump sounding back fire.
Is there a way to check the cats to see if that is my problem or do I need to tow it to a muffler shop and have them have a look at it ???
Scan the vehicle computer/controllers with your ELM scan tool running FORScan & post All trouble code Number clues.
Use your vacuum gauge & scroll down to scenario 14 here How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge to have a look at scenario 14 for exhaust restrictions.
If the cat is clogged, it may be glowing cherry red after a drive.
The exhaust manifold leak may be causing the poor idle.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know how your trouble shoot goes.
Well the #2 and #3 plug wire boot's had oil on them, so those plugs where covered with oil when I pulled them out.
Plugs are pretty well shot looking.
Checked the plugs wires...#1@4.62, #2@3.58, #3@3.31 #4@4.61 ohms with the meter set at 20k.
Three out of four plugs are bad according to the volt/ohm meter.
On the plug end of it I usually just run the OEM Motorcraft spark plugs which are single platinum...The spark plugs that were in it are Motorcraft AFSF 32FM's...The auto parts stores have a "double platinum" Autolite and Autolite XP Iridium plugs. I have read that with the waste ignition that are on Ranger trucks to run either the double platinum or the iridium spark plugs.
Are the Autolite XP Iridium plugs okay or should I try to get Motorcraft Iridium plugs ???
Hope that will fix it...Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter yesterday...Guess I will put plugs in it...drive it around and pull #2 and #3 to see if the spark plug wire boots are sitting in oil or the plugs are oiled.
Hope it is just the valve cover gasket.
Last edited by Charlie Tee; Sep 7, 2015 at 08:47 AM.
Reason: tyop
OK, good feedback. Those pictured plugs appear to have been running on the rich side, but that may have been caused by a wimpy spark. So, plug in your ELM scantool & have a look at fuel trim, O2 sensor response time & range, MAF sensor PID, IAT & engine coolant temp readings & maybe fuel injector pulse width & perform a fuel pressure check & post the Numbers.
Unfortunately I do not have a ELM327 scan tool. Do any of the usual suspect local parts stores sell something that will work with the forscan software?
Was in Orielly's yesterday and they have several for around 25 dollars.
If it runs okay after installing the spark plugs I guess I could wait and order the ELM327 from Amazon.
Out the door to Sears to buy a locking 3/8 extension and some Motorcraft spark plugs...Unless of course you give me a different recommendation for spark plugs.
I assume the O2 sensor has not been changed nor the PCV valve. Do you have a preference for O2 sensors?
I'd recommend the specified newer fine wire iridium enhanced center electrode, with platinum pad ground/side wire design spark plugs, for our waste spark ignition system.
As spark gap is always opening up, set them with a Wire gauge & slowly ease up on gapping them to the low/.052" side of the spark gap spec, so as not to pull the gauge through too tight a gap & damage the side wire platinum pad, or fine wire center electrode.
Torque them in to the Low side of spec, so as not to over tighten from the anti-sieze lube effect.
Then spread a thin even coating of GE, Dow-Corning, or Permatex/Loctite silicone dielectric grease onto the spark plug external ceramic insulator, & inside the plug wire boots, to prevent flash over on rainy days, or those damp, wet, humid, morning starts, when everything under hood is soaked in condensation.
The fine wire plugs will last longer, the gap will stay in spec longer & I enjoy quicker year round starts, since installing them in All of my vehicles.
Motorcraft O2 sensors are good & I've had good results with the specified Bosh with on line discount, from Advance Auto, in my 94 Taurus 3.8L.
Good idea to change the PCV valve, if it's sticking closed, it can cause crankcase over pressure that'll blow oil out the weakest seal.
The ELM scantool discussed here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html, will cost the same as the less capable code reader, so if your going to opt for a diagnostic tool, I'd suggest considering the ELM. If you opt for the blue tooth model, BAFX on Amazon has been reported to be a reputable vendor & will respond if you have product problems.
They are saying .044 for the spark plug gap...And my wire feeler gauge goes from .044 to .054...Guess I will try to find one that has a .052...If not what is a measly little ole .002.
Is there any reason you opt to gap them at .052 versus the .044?
Also going to check the compression...All four plugs out holding the throttle wide open has always been the way ?
Do I need to take the fuel pump relay or power to the coil off ?
Thank you for your time pawpaw...Really appreciate your help.
My bad on the spark gap, thats the number for my 4.0L. I see looking at the manual that the 2.3L spark plug gap is .041"-.047", so set it to the minimum side of spec with a Wire gauge, as it's less likely to damage the sidewire platinum pad, or center electrode & the reason for setting it to the min side of spec is that the gap is always opening up with time, so setting it to the min side keeps it in spec longer & it'll make for quicker/easier cold weather starts, as the spark kernel is hotter.
Trip the in cabin inertia switch, or unplug it, or pull the under hood fuel pump power relay, or its fuse to depower the pump when cranking the engine, so you don't wash the cylinders down with fuel, while cranking the engine to perform the compression test.
Just finished the compression test. #1@175psi, #2@175psi, #3@180psi and #4@175psi.
Just fired it up after putting the plugs in long enough for it to stop smoking. Might not have run it long enough to clear out all the oil that dropped down the cylinders when removing the spark plug on #3.
Just registered at FORscan and have not been verified as of yet to ask about support for this specific scan tool. From the looks of "user reviews" it is a good one.
It is starting right up...idles up to about 1200rpm...drops and then goes up and down...Will hold rpm around 2k...sounds like it has 2 missing cylinders...she's running ruff for sure.
FORscan is listing these error codes:
OBDII-On Board Diagnostic II
P0340-C CMP sensor circuit fault (malfunction is expected to be confirmed)
P0511-C IAC circuit fault (Confirmed malfunction)
Ran the truck probably another 5 minutes total about 1 minute at a time...every time I checked the scanner there were more error codes...
Had to replace the valve cover gaskets and found a big problem with the intake manifold. Any suggestions on what I should replace while I have easy access to the right side of the motor would be greatly appreciated.
