Sorry on the duplicate post!

 

Are you planning on testing the fit with the cab and steering column in place before committing? We are putting a M GT 4.6 3V in Gary's 52, And found the M GT exhaust manifold on the driver's side pointed directly at the steering column without possibility of going around The only stocked headers we found were for the donor M GT chassis, so exited in exactly the same place. we had to off set the engine 1" to the pass side to allow enough room to squeeze a custom made shorty style header between the frame and the block on the driver's side. I was of the understanding the 5.0 was even wider than the 4.6 3V? Is firewall clearance not a concern?
FRP has filter relocation kits.

 

AX, I have made a cardboard template of the firewall and also have the cab on a roller dolly next to the frame. I can go back and forth with measurements. I am also using the "Belle Pepper" thread as a guide. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-thread-6.html We are both using the same engine and frame. Mike routed the steering between the header and the block. I have the same M GT headers. I am also moving the engine 1" to the passenger side. My main problem is with the oil filter and oil cooler. The F150 has a small oil cooler that wraps around the oil filter base. It has hoses that circulate water/antifreeze at the oil filter base. The oil filter/cooler conflicts with the PS hydraulic lines. I think the oil cooler is part of a towing package on the F150 truck. In my '51 Panel Truck towing would not be a concern and the oil cooler redundant. The remote oil filter may be the best solution. It would allow me to set the engine back and also lower in the frame. Resolving the driveline phasing problem. It would also give me better clearance between the engine and radiator, and allow a larger radiator fan.

 

Waiting on parts for the remote oil filter. So I decided to start on the brakes. Willwood proportioning valve, stop light sender and 2lb residual valves.




Rear brakes to stainless flex hoses to disc calipers on each side.




Left front, the right front will have to wait until the trans cross member is installed.

 

I'm not sure what you are calling driveline phasing problem? Sounds like you mean matching the transmission output shaft and pinion angles? Is your pinion angle already locked in and you are trying to match it by adjusting the engine angle? Typically the engine is installed first, normal angle 3-5* down at the rear, then the rear axle pinion angle is matched to it at ride height adjusting the axle by rotating it before fixing it in it's mounting, or with shims, or by adjusting the bar lengths with 4 bar setup until it is within + - 1*. Since you cannot accurately predict what the final ride height will be unless using coilovers or bags, the axle is usually left loose in the mounts until near final assembly. Trying to match it the other way around by adjusting the engine angle is really difficult, it means you can't set the engine mounting until near the end of the build. Can you not adjust the axle rotation/pinion angle at the rear?

Driveline (or more specifically driveshaft) phasing usually refers to matching the U joint yoke position on the driveshaft at each end "in phase" so both fixed yokes are aligned, i.e. both are north-south, not one N-S and one E-W or some angle in between. All driveshaft builders/modifiers knows this needs to be the case, so unless you are shortening your own driveshaft or have a 2 piece shaft with a slip joint that isn't keyed, phasing should not be a concern.

Ok, I went back and looked at your pictures, see the 4 bar setup. Is there not enough adjustment on the ends of the 4 bar to adjust your pinion angle to match the engine or can't you get the engine to sit at 0- 6* down at the rear? Are your coilovers adjustable for ride height? We had a small issue getting Gary's engine to < 5* using the stock engine mounts and the tranny flange not hitting the floor, but by playing with the tranny crossmember mount and the rubber biscuits settling with the engine weight it came out 5*.

 

That's a different way to plumb brakes, should work, be interesting to see how it works out.

 

Are those cunifer brake lines?

 

One more note: the tranny output shaft, driveshaft, rear axle pinion should never be installed all in a straight line. The transmission output shaft and pinion shaft should both be at the same (down - up) angle at rest, but the drive shaft should be angled between them. You probably know this, but I'm just adding it for some of those reading along.

 

AX, Your right I should have said pinion angle. The trans yoke angle was more than 6 degrees and I had set the 4 link angle closer to 3 degrees. I was just trying to get the engine a little lower in the front to get them closer to being equal. Yes, I will do the final adjustment with the 4 link bars. The trans yoke was close to hitting top of the center cross member, so lowering the motor mounts was the best solution.

Ross, The brake lines are Cunifer from Federal Hill. Very easy to form the flares and bend the curves, and they will never rust. I have a K-Tool flaring kit and every flare comes out perfect.

 

Radiator test fit.




The oil filter/cooler set-up conflicts with radiator return outlet.




Oil filter base and cooler removed. I ordered a Moroso adapter and base to relocate the oil filter. The cooler will probably be eliminated. I'll see what will fit and where.




Mustang GT headers. Ceramic coated, now they need to be baked at 400 degrees.




Motor mounts welded in and painted.

 

IMHO, with a new radiator you should have more than ample cooling unless doing a lot of heavy hauling/towing. Install a oil temp gauge and if it is getting much above recommended upper temp limits, an aftermarket or salvaged air/oil cooler could be easily added to the remote filter kit.

 

I put the torque converter in the trans, and bolted up the engine to the mounts.




Cooked the ceramic coating. 30 min at 250 followed by 30 min at 400, then 30 min at 600. The wife was not real happy, but She's a good sport.




Exhaust manifolds installed. I have the parts now to do the remote oil filter, stainless exhaust system and behind the rear axle gas tank. Pics to follow.

 

The water-cooled oil "cooler" is worth retaining, if you can do the plumbing. They not only keep the oil below a max temp, they heat the oil up quickly on a cold start. I don't know much about the coyote engines, but on many Euro engines that's important. Oil management is a big deal on cammers, and having consistent oil temperatures is part of the strategy. For instance there may be metering orifices that depend on a certain (low) viscosity for adequate flow. Worth considering...

 

What happened to the driver's side frame rail? That looks nasty, how do you plan on straightening/repairing/reinforcing that so it will take the engine torque without further cracking?

 

AX, The truck was wrecked sometime in the past. It has a 3/8" thick x 24" long, plate welded to the inside of the frame rail in that area. The "nasty" area is enhanced by the lighting. I will clean up and weld the holes in the bottom flange. It's not a concern.