Here is the issue.

I replaced my EBPV tube. That went well. Replaced my EBPV sensor and the new one snapped off in the mount....then the easy out extractor snapped off as well. Now the sensor is connected but zip tied out of the way. The tube is 100% plugged by the brass and extractor. Two local shops have quoted me higher than $400 to fix.

My big question is have I just accidentally done an EBPV bypass mod? Because at the moment my truck is running the best it has in at least a year

The old tube was plugged really bad.

What do I do now?

 

The Access Plate for the HPOP is attached with two bolts. it has the mounting bracket machined into it.

Remove those and the plate will come off - Remove the tube at both ends and remove it.

You'll have to clean and reapply new Ford RTV Grey prior to reattaching the Access Cover.

The Sensor is Brass. So, using small - large bits, drill around the easy out until it falls from the opening.

The Sensor only needs about 4 ft. lbs. of torque when installing.

You need not keep the sensor plugged in since its broken unless you have a CAL Truck or EXC.

Good Luck... Just take you're time.

$400 - !

You should see the same, if not better improvement in performance as well as Fuel Mileage.

 

So at this point do I even need to replace the sensor again? or is having it unplugged and the tube plugged at the mount ok. I have read posts about doing the EBPV bypass....is it ok to stay how I am? or am I risking the health of my truck.


Thanks Again

 

Or $50 bling to replace the bracket.

That sensor sends data to the PCM, helps determine fueling. It should be hooked up.

 

I truly am not being argumentative. I am asking to help grow my knowledge. But most of what I read lists nothing about fueling in connection with that sensor. Regardless. Thank you so much for the link!!!!! I was having no luck finding it. But right now I would need a new sensor and the bracket so give or take $150. Not to bad. But I just want to make sure about the fueling issue. If that's the case how come there are so many people who bypass/delete the system totally?

 

The EBPV is totally different than the EBPS. The valve is on the exhaust side of the turbo, and the sensor is on that tube from the exhaust manifold. You need the sensor, but you don't need the Valve.

To delete the valve you have to pull the turbo and pedistal. Gut the pedistal, plug the hole where the rod came out, with a pipe tap and plug, or some use a bolt/nut with a copper washer. Tha. There's a small oil passage that needs plugged too.. That's it for that part. Than gut the back of the turbo so the Valve is no longer there. Tap two holes for 1/2 npt and plug.

 

You "should" disconnect the EBPV. At the front of the pedestal, you'll see a rectangular plug at the base. It has a wire plug holder which needs to be lifted. Then just wiggle it out and you're done. Although there will be no signal, you'll be certain the EBPV is open.

 

[QUOTE=hav24wheel;15586291]The EBPV is totally different than the EBPS. The valve is on the exhaust side of the turbo, and the sensor is on that tube from the exhaust manifold. You need the sensor, but you don't need the Valve.

To delete the valve you have to pull the turbo and pedistal. Gut the pedistal, plug the hole where the rod came out, with a pipe tap and plug, or some use a bolt/nut with a copper washer. Tha. There's a small oil passage that needs plugged too.. That's it for that part. Than gut the back of the turbo so the Valve is no longer there. Tap two holes for 1/2 npt and plug.[/QUOTE



I have read about the full valve delete. But I also regularly see bypass mods. Which it seems I have accidentally done.....kinda. If I do in fact need the sensor I will just get another new one and the new bracket. But what is that sensor for besides controlling the valve at the turbo which is seemingly not needed if it can be deleted.

 

Supposedly, the sensor helps control fueling tables in the PCM, if that's true, IDK, it's one of the many things I've read online about stuff on 7.3s... I haven't messed with my sensor at all besides the tube when I changed exhaust manifolds.

But I did delete the valve but left the electric crap on the pedistal so the computer doesn't know it's deleted.

 

Thanks for the info! Unfortunately for me I will not have time to replace the bracket until AFTER I pull my camper to the beach!

 

Like said above, separate systems. The exhaust back pressure sensor is never deleted or modded. Without it your MPGs are gonna tank.

Heh, I made a funny.

 

It will be a bit but ill get it replaced. Funny thing is my MPG are the best they have been in a long while with more power!

 

Just FYI to clear up the differences between the sensor and mechanical device itself. As well as some insight how they work in conjunction with each, as well as the PCM and other Sensors.


The EBP Sensor and EPV work in unison to warm the Engine Faster to OT. It is PCM but not to the extent that it "hurts" fuel mileage. There is additional fuel delivered to maintain an increased idle while active. However, when the Tube is blocked, it does not allow the pressure transducer to fluctuate by the exhaust pressure. All this is controlled based on following parameters:

IAT (Intake Air Temperature) Below 10°C (50°F) to activate EBP
EOT (Engine Oil Temperature) Below 70°C (158°F) to activate EBP

A high pitched whine, in exhaust system, will be heard when EBP device is active.

At the turbo exhaust outlet is a butterfly that when actuated will restrict the exhaust flow, this causes the engine to work harder in cold ambients and generate engine coolant temperature quicker for cab heat.

The actuation of this device is controlled by the PCM and the E8P regulator located in the turbo pedestal. The EBP regulator restricts lube oil flow out of the turbo (center housing) and directs oil to the turbo pedestal which pushes the EBP actuator arm outward causing the butterfly to close or restrict exhaust flow.

The PCM uses the EBP sensor to monitor the exhaust restriction. The E8P sensor is connected to the right exhaust manifold using a pipe and fitting.

The exhaust back pressure device will open when the accelerator pedal is depressed and the exhaust back pressure increases. When the exhaust back pressure decreases or the vehicle is in a steady state, exhaust back pressure decreases per the EBP sensor, the E8P regulator can, and will activate the EBP device again even while going down the highway as long as the EOT temperature is below the specifications.

 

Great info! This is the same type of info I have been finding. Which looks like if you don't care about the "warming up faster" then it serves no purpose and could be bypassed. It just seems that I can't find any technical data showing where the pcm uses it for fueling. Although I find so many people saying it does