Does anyone know the best source to buy a new ignition coil for the cheapest price? I have already looked on rockauto.com and it looks like going to be about $77 with shipping for the Motorcraft replacement. Autozone wants $66 for theirs ,but it looks like it is a OEM replacement aftermarket. Any suggestions?

 

Since the misfire stays with #1, the only thing left is the coil pack.
This is not a COP engine.
Don't worry about code 316.
It will clear when the 302 clears.
Look at the code description.
Good luck.

 

Thanks Bluegrass 7! Do you think that would also help with the poor gas mileage?

 

One cylinder out will absolutely affect fuel mileage.
For a number of reasons, engine is down on power , dead cylinder drag, upsets the fuel metering etc.
Good luck.

 

Thanks Bluegrass 7,

Should I go with the Motorcraft or Autozone Duralast coil you think?

 

motorcraft

 

Well all of the drama with the P302 code actually pointed to the catalytic converter. Found that out last night. Picked up my wife at work and truck was running like crap. I had changed out the ignition coil and that made it worse. Put the Motorcraft back on and same thing. Last night truck got towed in with glowing catalytic converters on the driver's side front 2. So apparantly after changing out the spark plug wires and coil the problem was the catalytic converters being clogged. Hopefully I can hollow out just the driver's side CATS and get back to driving again with no issues.

 

WRONG!
The cylinder not firing the charge in the cylinder, passed the 'unburnt' gas to the cats where it burned from the cats being at their normal operating temperature of about 600 degrees from the other 3 cylinders normal exhaust.
The lesson here is never run the truck with a cylinder out.
Now you have melted cats and likely damaged Ox sensors.
That bright red cats your saw was over 1000 degrees in temperature.
The internal material cannot stand that high temperature.
You will still have #3 out.
A cat will never cause one cylinder only to misfire.
Now you have at least an $500 bill to replace a cat 'assembly' on one side.
If you rod them out, you still end up with a code 420 that will never go away.
You need luck now or a proper repair.
.
Look at the thread about alternator replacement and can't get the belt back on.
The poster wanted to argue after it was explained about not using an over sized pulley, and the replies that followed..
Good luck.
.
.

 

Ok so I dropped the cat on the driver's side today and found lots of nice burned up material. Hollowed it out and put back on. Started truck up and still making pinging fuel noise of the fuel going into the cats. I am going to drop the passenger side cat and do the same. However now I have no idea why it seems like it is not getting spark or fuel. The #2 cylinder, which is the culprit, is reading 190 PSI on the compression test. I put back the motorcraft ignition coil and old spark plug wires. I believe I have it wired correct. The spark plug wires are 1-2-3 on the left side of the coil and 4-5-6 on the right hand side of it. Fuel pressure or injector issue?

 

 

Rule out fuel because that is what burned the cats from what was injected and not burned in the cylinder.
A 30X code is a 'secondary' side of the coil failure or no spark.
It is not the computer or harness leading to the coil or there would be a 35x code for that 'primary' side of the coil circuit.
You have to have a coil secondary side failure, the plug wire or a boot/plug fault.
There is no other place to look.
At least do some testing on the spark plug lead off the engine to ascertain if you even see any spark across a plug tip laying on ground.
Is there a possibility your not seating the plug wire onto the coil or on the plug? Remove the injector plug when you do this so fuel is not pumped out of the plug hole and ignited.
Resistance test the plug wire with an Ohmmeter. You should see 5000 to 10,000 ohms resistance range.
Look at the spark plug tip after running the motor a few minutes. Is it wet with fuel that would indicate an injector stuck open and fouled the plug?
Is the plug gap in spec range?
Be sure your working on the second cylinder from the front on the passenger side for code 302..
Good luck..

 

P0302 is the PASSENGER side.

 

This is why he cannot figure out his issue.
Second from the front on the driver side is cylinder 5.
Until he gets things straight, the issues and destruction will just keep going on.
It's time to tell it like it is.
Good luck.

 

Bluegrass 7,

I will check the boot plugs as well as the other things you suggested. Still scratching my head on this one. One thing I did also notice is that when I took off the Motorcraft coil the 3rd connection part had broken off. It is attached by 2 of the connector bolts but not the 3rd. Not sure if that is going to make a difference or not. The truck again really acted badly when I put the aftermarket MasterPro ignition coil on. Now the truck won't even crank over.

 

Here is a picture of the #2 cylinder spark plug. I checked the connection on the spark plug wire and everything appears ok. Truck is still running really bad. I have not been able to remove the other side Catalytic converter on the passenger side due to not being able to access the bolts that mount it to the exhaust manifold. Truck is still making "pinging" noises from the exhaust due to the fuel being burnt. Still running P0174 code. Cleaned MAF sensor again but that made no difference as some had said that the P0174 code could be attributed to that. Going back to the auto parts store to get another spark plug. I am running out of time as my wife needs the truck for work tomorrow and I am driving the Bronco. This is PURE craziness!