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Hi, My 2003 f-250 6.0l has not been starting. I have connected a scan tool and I am getting around 1000 psi icp. The FICM voltage is 47.5v however when I cycled the key it dropped to 43.5 then started climbing to 48, but I am not getting FICM sync. I does eventually start when I do get sync. It seems to run fine after it starts. It does not do this all of the time. But this morning It cranked until the battery died. Any ideas? New FICM?
Thanks for you help.
You may have 2 issues, if it starts when you have sync and wont when you dont, you have a sync issue.
Are you missing sync or ficm sync?
43v ficm maybe from a bad ficm or battery drain from attempting to start for long periods of time.
Here are the readings I am getting. I am a little worried about the FICM voltage after I cycle the key. Let me know what you think.
Thanks. http://youtu.be/CgknG-q4FfM
Here is the latest video explaining my issues. I seem to have long cranks hot or cold.
Icp and IPR are all good. FICM voltage drops to 40v during clatter then climbs back to normal. As soon as I get FICM sync it starts and runs fine. Error codes include low injector circuit on all 8 cyl. If you watch the video you will see that ICP jumps to over 1000 psi almost instantly. Recent work done is New Hpop, IPR valve, ICP sensor, New injector o-rings and nipple cup o-rings. The High pressure system is tight.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
If your FICM is dropping to 40v during cranking, it's toast. Ford says nothing under 45v. And it's common to all injectors.
Your battery voltage is also to low, I'd check them under load and independent of each other, same for alternator. Probably why the FICM is toast to begin with.
FICM will increase voltage as it warms up. Hit it with a hair dryer before starting and see how it does.
Either way, I'd replace it AFTER battery and alternator testing and replacement as required.
If your FICM is dropping to 40v during cranking, it's toast. Ford says nothing under 45v. And it's common to all injectors.
Your battery voltage is also to low, I'd check them under load and independent of each other, same for alternator. Probably why the FICM is toast to begin with.
FICM will increase voltage as it warms up. Hit it with a hair dryer before starting and see how it does.
Either way, I'd replace it AFTER battery and alternator testing and replacement as required.
It doesn't drop while cranking only during warm up clatter. I also tested it with my other truck hooked up with jumper cables with the same results.
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