1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Steering Play (1985 F250 4x4)

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Old 08-11-2015, 08:59 AM
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Steering Play (1985 F250 4x4)

Hello,
My 1985 F250 (4x4) has more pronounced play in the steering, after I put a new set of tires on it this last weekend. I think the Cooper tires are fine, and I have delt with this play in the steering for a couple of years.

I have completely replaced the front end with all new steering parts (drag link, tie rods etc), ball joints from Moog, steering gear from Red Head, steering shaft from Borgeson, new wheel bearings, aligned properly and now new tires.
So, now the tires seem to track the road better, which is making the 'play' more pronounced because I am having to constantly adjust steering to bring it back to center (in both directions). Prior to the new tires, their was play in the steering, but it was more manageable.

When I got rid of the rag joint a year ago and replaced it with the Borgeson shaft, the play improved dramatically, but was still there a little bit...more than it should.

I have looked it over countless times, on the lift, watching the movements of the steering; it really seems to be in the gear box, which I hate because it is a Red Head and they are supposed to be so good, and what a pain in the rear to work on!
The question.....is there any other area of the entire steering sequence of moving parts that I could have over looked?
 
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:18 AM
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Are you sure it is play? I ask because a problem in alignment or tires/wheels can cause the truck to track poorly. In the alignment, both caster and camber need to be within spec. And the camber frequently requires a bushing replacement to bring it into spec on these trucks. Especially if the springs have been or need to be replaced.

As for the tires, did you go oversized? The original wheels on these trucks are quite narrow ~6") and larger tires frequently call for wider wheels. My brother recently ran into this on an FJ Cruiser that someone put large tires on - too large for the wheels. The tracking was quite poor as it followed every rut in the road and wouldn't properly come back to center. But replacing those tires with ones that were spec'd for the wheels made it drive like a new vehicle.
 
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:29 AM
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I am not sure about the bushings, and, probably would be a good idea to replace the bushings...they are 30 years old. The springs have never been replaced either...it is all original.
I did go with over sized to the 265 (which was the same size tires that has been on it for 15 years), so it is about an inch wider than the factory which would have been 235s I believe.

How big of a chore is the bushing replacement? I tend to do all the work on this truck myself.
 
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:05 AM
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The bushings needed to correct the camber problem these trucks frequently have aren't a soft bushing, but an eccentric item that is rotated until the correct camber is achieved. I've not done the work myself as it is part of the alignment process, so had the local alignment shop do it.

On the tires, I do think 235/75/R15's were stock. Looking at Tire Rack I find that the majority of those tires are to be mounted on wheels 6.5" wide. However, the 265's are to be mounted on wheels that are 7.5" wide. So part of your problem may well be a tire that is too wide for your rims.

Some times you can improve the tracking by increasing or decreasing tire pressures. In the case of a tire that is too wide for the rim it is on the sidewall is being pulled in more than was planned for in the design. That means the tire is bulged in the center such that the edges aren't carrying the designed portion of the load. So, you may be able to improve the tracking by lowering tire pressure since that will tend to flatten the profile of the tire.
 
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:08 AM
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I see. Well, I assume the alignement was completed correctly, but it would be a good idea to take it to a different shop and just get a second opinion.
On the tire pressure, I will try that approach of lowering the psi slightly and see if it improves.
 
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:12 AM
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My shop asked me if I wanted to spring for the bushings. Said they weren't necessary but they were the only way to get it in spec. And, for the ~$100's they cost they weren't sure if such an old truck warranted them. So, maybe yours assumed? I'd ask them.
 
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:15 AM
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Definately I will. The truck needs to be straight down the road, my 16 year old will be driving it once I get this worked out. He will have enough to worry about driving that big truck, he does not need wandering steering issues.
 
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:57 PM
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Check the bushings on the front shackles. The ones hidden up inside the frame like to go bad. And of course there are bushing in the rear of the springs also. And then there are the bushings in the center that the axles pivot on. They are not much fun to replace, but I ended up making myself an installer tool out of large washers and a piece of all-thread.

After all the bushings, everything will be replaced. But there is one more thing you need to check; Check the frame and the crossmember around the steering box. The frame likes to crack where the steering box mounts, and the rivets that go between the frame and the large front crossmember like to come loose. There is a Ford TSB out on this.
 
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:44 PM
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Ok, I will check on the bushings in the leaf spring connections.
I checked the frame and cross member at the steering box, all look good, no cracking.
The leaf springs could probably be replaced as well...30 year old, 145k miles, so I could do all that at one time. Not even looking forward to the bushing on the pivot point, not even....but, I will probably do it nonetheless.
Thanks for the help...I will let you know what I find.....it will take me a few weeks.
 
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:54 PM
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And, I do notice a loud popping and cracking type of noise from the front. I suspect it is the leaf springs, or mountings or even the pivot. So, it is definately worth me diffing in to all this.
 
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:55 PM
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One thing I thought could be causing the play in the box is if it has air in it. I saw something about that on an earlier post.
Do you know how to blead the air out of a new gear box?
 
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 19tanker
And, I do notice a loud popping and cracking type of noise from the front. I suspect it is the leaf springs, or mountings or even the pivot. So, it is definately worth me diffing in to all this.
It sounds like the pivot bushings are bad. This is very common and can really make the truck hard to drive. That lets the outside end front axles move forward and backward, which completely changes the steering. So, that's where I'd start looking.
 
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Old 08-17-2015, 01:02 PM
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You are talking about the pivot bushing on the TTB, correct? Do you know where I could get a service manual on that particular process?
 
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Old 08-17-2015, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 19tanker
You are talking about the pivot bushing on the TTB, correct? Do you know where I could get a service manual on that particular process?
Yes. But, I don't know of a service manual other than the factory one that describes doing that process. However, it is a normal process so it is probable that most manuals cover it - I just don't know.
 
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Old 08-17-2015, 04:21 PM
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10-4. I might ask a Ford dealer, just to see if they have the Ford OEM service manual. But, like you are saying, I am sure haynes or chilton have adequate instructions as well.

Thanks for your help!
 
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