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I would not recommend those headers for your truck, or any other vehicle. The mounting flange on those are 1/4". With that thin of a mounting flange and with the heat that is generated will cause those headers to quickly warp and then you will have exhaust leaks. They will annoy the crap out of you... I would recommend that you look for a thicker mounting flange which typically equates to more money. L&L have really nice headers with 1/2" flange, but they will cost you over $600. So your options are buy cheap and replace soon, buy a nice quality header pay more, enjoy a longer life which will save you money, time and labor. JMHO
You get what you pay for friend, get the good stuff with a thick flange to mount to the block and quality high temp finish. Flow-techs are okay but the way they fit on some trucks can be anywhere from good to complete crap. Mine were a bear on the passenger side, two people and allot of wiggling and it just barely fit in there and even then had to work around the cross-member with them. Plus mine as so rusty now if it wasn't for the fact that they are gonna be pulled and redone for my 351w I'd bet cash they'd be rusted out in another year.
Did a pair of long tubes last year. What a PIA! Also had to be heated up and dimpled just to clear the transmission pan and starter. This was also on a '95, 351, E4OD, 4wd, but don't expect a hassle free install.
Also just a thought OP, what is wrong with a set of shorties? They bolt right up to the stock pipe and still give you good low end improvement which is what you want in a truck. If you dont want the cat then you can take that out. Summitt says 15 hp too. In fact and there is conflicting info on the Web but I asked a journeyman mechanic but shorties will actually produce more torque than long tubes. Long tubes will produce more hp but it's all towards the top end. LT will sound better too but to me it's not worth the headache to do long tubes plus that hot exhaust next to my E4od didn't sound inviting either. Just my 0.02.
Pacesetters are best bang for the buck, and fit the best. I've messed with all of the headers, bent many a set....Pacesetters bolt up and need nothing.
No way, now how, and in no universe bound by the laws of physics as we know them will shortys produce more torque or hp than long tubes.
At what rpm any header produces the most hp is completely dependent on primary tube size in relation to engine displacement. Brute low end is what you'll achieve from any off the shelf long tube for the pickups.
Pacesetters are best bang for the buck, and fit the best. I've messed with all of the headers, bent many a set....Pacesetters bolt up and need nothing.
No way, now how, and in no universe bound by the laws of physics as we know them will shortys produce more torque or hp than long tubes.
At what rpm any header produces the most hp is completely dependent on primary tube size in relation to engine displacement. Brute low end is what you'll achieve from any off the shelf long tube for the pickups.
I'm not saying you are wrong b/c I don't know honestly so you are probably right but he says shorties produce more torque (not HP) from idle to mid range but after that they will lose out but tube size would make a difference I do know that. Shorties are sometimes listed as "truck headers" too so I thought that is why (pulling power in low RPMs). This article listed below says that too. Anyways I'm not going to do long tubes on my truck for reasons I listed so you talking about Pacesetter shorties or Long Tubes that are an easy install? I was considering BBK ceramic coated shorties. Thoughts or experience with those? Here is article about short vs long tubes btw
It is true, the scavenging benefits of long tubes is increased with rpm, but the low speed effects are still relevant especially when sized for low speed applications. The gains from long tubes can be massive, relative to other single modifications, so there is virtually always a substantial gain by using them.
There are two benefits of long tubes that shorties can't offer; evacuation (vacuum effect) of exhaust in addition to intake. The vacuum placed on the intake is maximized by cam overlap...in other words the more radical the cam, the greater the gains offered by long tubes. This is where 30+ hp and 40-50 lb/ft can be unleashed by long tubes alone. This doesn't apply to our trucks, but it's necessary to include for the sake of the discussion.
The exhaust scavenge is what applies most to our trucks where overlap is small and rpm is low. The long primaries act as "vacuum reserve canisters" so to speak, as each tube that is not experiencing an exhaust event has a vacuum applied to it. This occurs whether the rpm is high or low, and while higher rpm amplifies the effect, small primaries marginalize the difference of rpm by keeping velocity high at low speeds. This "sized for application" primary tube size is key in making substantial torque gains off idle.
What that article leaves out is the relationship between primary size and application. You can't bolt long tubes with primaries sized for mid-high rpm and expect gains over shorties at low rpm. You can size long tubes for low rpm, which would be unusable on high rpm apps, to take advantage of the benefits.
So while the gains won't be "race caresque", there is always benefits of long tubes over short. There's no difference in flow between the two styles, with matched sized primaries, just differences in function.
truck headers is merely a marketing gimmick... there is insignificant to no difference between them and car shorties.
For ease I was referencing pacesetter long tubes. Any shorty fits well and are easy to install thanks to large engine bays. I'd steer clear of anything to cheap as well as anything too fancy, unless fancy means stainless.
In my book it's painted or stainless, especially if you keep the truck a while. I've never seen a ceramic coating last more than a few years and paint burns off virtually instantly...Misewell save your money if it's gonna mean bare headers one way or another.
If I didn't already have my new exhaust, I would have saved for "Quality" long tube headers.
On a side note.....And not trying to hijack the OP's thread, has anyone run long tubes and kept their saddle tank. Most of what I have seen on here from other members posting, is that they have already removed it or it was gone already. I would really like to do long tubes and keep my saddle tank.
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