Getting a system
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From: Redneck Riviera
Getting a system
I've been thinking of buying a system for my explorer, something that should cost me 800-1000 bucks...I still have to save up some to get to that amount but I'll get there. I need you guys to give me some opinions on wat to get amp wise, subs, HU, all the goods, I have plenty of space in the trunk but I don't want to take up the whole trunk. I also do not know how to install it mysef. So I'll probably have a friend help me who is an expert on these things, or just get it done at a place such as best buy. Your take on this please.
Dave
Dave
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From: Pennsylvania
Getting a system
CD Player: Alpine CDA-7995 $299 @ http://www.crutchfield.com
Speakers: Diamond Audio M361 comps $169 @ http://www.onlinecarstereo.com
Sub: Diamond Audio CM312D4 12" $109 @ http://www.onlinecarstereo.com
Amp:JBL BP300.1 $149 @ http://www.carmedia1.com OR cheaper on EBAY, you'll have to look around.
Total about $730, even saves you enough for a good amp kit and cables.
Speakers: Diamond Audio M361 comps $169 @ http://www.onlinecarstereo.com
Sub: Diamond Audio CM312D4 12" $109 @ http://www.onlinecarstereo.com
Amp:JBL BP300.1 $149 @ http://www.carmedia1.com OR cheaper on EBAY, you'll have to look around.
Total about $730, even saves you enough for a good amp kit and cables.
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From: Redneck Riviera
Getting a system
Thanks smokey...but my friend that's an expert in these things tells me to get a pioneer..but this alpine sounds real good to me. I'm gonna give him a buzz and see what he thinks.
Thanks again bro,
Dave
Thanks again bro,
Dave
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From: Cheney, Wa
Getting a system
alpines are clears better sound, pioneer has more features, for the 7995 price pioneer has a hard time beating it. but 500 bucks worth of pioneer h/u is sweet
don't buy jbl amps they're crap
get a close out on a mtx 8302 for 200 bones 420~x1 rms 4ohm can't beat them period. and they won't burn up your subs like class d's
don't buy jbl amps they're crap
get a close out on a mtx 8302 for 200 bones 420~x1 rms 4ohm can't beat them period. and they won't burn up your subs like class d's
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Getting a system
well i've got a 1998 explorer and have two 10 inch jl subs in a powerwedge box. hits pretty good because of the hatchback, bout how i like it. doesnt take up too much space and isnt ungodly loud, but puts out its share of bass. if you were really worried about space, jl makes a stealth box for a ten inch sub that fits in the back right panel of the back. takes up no space at all, but expensive. i think the retail price on it was like a little over $500, but looks nice. here's the link http://www.jlaudio.com/stealthbox/explorer.html
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From: Redneck Riviera
Getting a system
drew...that stealth box looks awesome for my explorer and I have the pocket insert so it'd probably fit perfectly. But then again I want more than just one sub...two-three max.
As far as amp goes I'm not sure on what to get yet. How about those lightning bolt audio amps? Are they any good because my local bestbuy has them up for sale.
4door..Boxerbriefs are seriously the best type of underwear out there..I wear hanes though.
Dave
As far as amp goes I'm not sure on what to get yet. How about those lightning bolt audio amps? Are they any good because my local bestbuy has them up for sale.
4door..Boxerbriefs are seriously the best type of underwear out there..I wear hanes though.
Dave
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From: Cheney, Wa
Getting a system
Originally posted by Boxerbriefs
As far as amp goes I'm not sure on what to get yet. How about those lightning bolt audio amps? Are they any good because my local bestbuy has them up for sale.
As far as amp goes I'm not sure on what to get yet. How about those lightning bolt audio amps? Are they any good because my local bestbuy has them up for sale.
lightning bolt audio ampsfast and the furious has a lightning audio series amp.
also they're crap as well, if it sold at walmart its not to quality......just a rule of thumb.
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From: Somewhere between Heaven
Getting a system
Originally posted by superswamper
alpines are clears better sound, pioneer has more features, for the 7995 price pioneer has a hard time beating it. but 500 bucks worth of pioneer h/u is sweet
don't buy jbl amps they're crap
get a close out on a mtx 8302 for 200 bones 420~x1 rms 4ohm can't beat them period. and they won't burn up your subs like class d's
alpines are clears better sound, pioneer has more features, for the 7995 price pioneer has a hard time beating it. but 500 bucks worth of pioneer h/u is sweet
don't buy jbl amps they're crap
get a close out on a mtx 8302 for 200 bones 420~x1 rms 4ohm can't beat them period. and they won't burn up your subs like class d's
The difference in like priced HU's between Alpine and Pioneer is inaudible, imo. Anymore, HU's are a commodity. As such, when shopping for like priced units among respectable companies, the differences really lie in "non-SQ" based criteria. Warranty, features, build quality, overall company reputation, or maybe just the way you're treated at the store you bought it at.
JBL amps are not crap. Sure, they have a few glaring weakness (such as inaccurately labeled xovers and gains...but those are very easily overcome) but they do what they are intended to: provide cheap power. The current models have been out for over 2 yrs. and they are still popular.
Lastly, subs have ablolutely no idea whether the power they are receiving is from a Class A, A/B, D, T, or X. They just care about getting sufficient power. The only way you can "burn" up a sub is if you are irresponsible with setting the gains, bass settings, loud, bass boost, and/or volume ****. A 500 watt Class A can burn a sub just as easily as a 500 watt Class T.
Last edited by luvdeftonz; Aug 1, 2003 at 11:43 PM.
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From: Cheney, Wa
Getting a system
Originally posted by luvdeftonz
Lastly, subs have ablolutely no idea whether the power they are receiving is from a Class A, A/B, D, T, or X. They just care about getting sufficient power. The only way you can "burn" up a sub is if you are irresponsible with setting the gains, bass settings, loud, bass boost, and/or volume ****. A 500 watt Class A can burn a sub just as easily as a 500 watt Class T.
Lastly, subs have ablolutely no idea whether the power they are receiving is from a Class A, A/B, D, T, or X. They just care about getting sufficient power. The only way you can "burn" up a sub is if you are irresponsible with setting the gains, bass settings, loud, bass boost, and/or volume ****. A 500 watt Class A can burn a sub just as easily as a 500 watt Class T.
Clipping
A signal that results from an amplifier that is either overloaded or underpowered relative to the signal Amplitude it being asked to generate. A clipped waveform is one in which the gently rounded peaks and valleys of the AC audio wave are instead sliced off or clipped, to yield what looks a lot like a square or alternating DC wave. When DC is applied to a speaker, the voice coil has no means of propelling itself relative to a constant magnetic field. Instead, it can only convert the incoming current to heat, and ultimately burns up. The effect of alternating DC on speakers is remarkable, irritating, painful, and short. If you are able to hear evident Distortion at high volume levels, or smell smoke, reduce the volume. It may already be too late for your speakers, but at least you may be able to save the amplifier.
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From: Somewhere between Heaven
Getting a system
You will NOT burn up your subs unless you thermally overdo them. This will only happen if you send them too much power, be it clipped or unclipped. The source of the power doesn't matter.
I know what clipping is, and how it occurs. The scientific mumbo jumbo is entertaining, but to put it simply, if you exceed an amps output capability, you will clip the signal. A clipped signal will give you a square wave. An unclipped signal will give you a sine wave....and unless it's a horribly clipped signal, burn up still might not occur (clipped signals prevent the vc from moving as far as it should...inhibiting cooling. It is only then, with little movement in the gap, and if used, pole vent, in conjunction with excess power, that the vc's and former can suffer the effects of excess heat). Whether this amp is Class A, A/B, D, X, T, or Class goblidygook, it doesn't matter. If you operate within an amps power output capabilities, clipping will not occur...and if the power of said unclipped amp is within the subs recommended power intake, burned up subs WILL NOT happen. Just match your amps power with your subs capable power intake, and you'll be golden...regardless of amp class.
I know what clipping is, and how it occurs. The scientific mumbo jumbo is entertaining, but to put it simply, if you exceed an amps output capability, you will clip the signal. A clipped signal will give you a square wave. An unclipped signal will give you a sine wave....and unless it's a horribly clipped signal, burn up still might not occur (clipped signals prevent the vc from moving as far as it should...inhibiting cooling. It is only then, with little movement in the gap, and if used, pole vent, in conjunction with excess power, that the vc's and former can suffer the effects of excess heat). Whether this amp is Class A, A/B, D, X, T, or Class goblidygook, it doesn't matter. If you operate within an amps power output capabilities, clipping will not occur...and if the power of said unclipped amp is within the subs recommended power intake, burned up subs WILL NOT happen. Just match your amps power with your subs capable power intake, and you'll be golden...regardless of amp class.
Last edited by luvdeftonz; Aug 2, 2003 at 05:25 AM.
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From: Cupertino, CA
Getting a system
Originally posted by luvdeftonz
You will NOT burn up your subs unless you thermally overdo them. This will only happen if you send them too much power, be it clipped or unclipped. The source of the power doesn't matter.
[...]
You will NOT burn up your subs unless you thermally overdo them. This will only happen if you send them too much power, be it clipped or unclipped. The source of the power doesn't matter.
[...]
I'm not trying to perpetuate an argument here; I know that underpowering speakers doesn't cause damage. I just want to point out that certain factors other than excessive power can be damaging.
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From: Somewhere between Heaven
Getting a system
...other factors...but I hope we're not all buying high dollar car audio systems to play pink noise and test tones 
My argument assumes the system is playing music only 
The very dynamics of music ensure that it's a clipped signal or overpowering that burns up the subs.
There are other things, also, that constitute too much power. Increasing the enclosure size, while maintaining power output, for example, reduces power handling. If you make a (sub) box twice as big, and send it the same power you were in it's "ideal" box, that too, can be um...nasty. All things being equal, if you send any speaker rated unclipped power, everything else being equal, it will not "burn" up.
My argument assumes the system is playing music only The very dynamics of music ensure that it's a clipped signal or overpowering that burns up the subs. There are other things, also, that constitute too much power. Increasing the enclosure size, while maintaining power output, for example, reduces power handling. If you make a (sub) box twice as big, and send it the same power you were in it's "ideal" box, that too, can be um...nasty. All things being equal, if you send any speaker rated unclipped power, everything else being equal, it will not "burn" up.
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From: Cupertino, CA
Getting a system
Originally posted by luvdeftonz
...other factors...but I hope we're not all buying high dollar car audio systems to play pink noise and test tones
...other factors...but I hope we're not all buying high dollar car audio systems to play pink noise and test tones
If you make a (sub) box twice as big, and send it the same power you were in it's "ideal" box, that too, can be um...nasty.