Mass air flow voltage issues
Had to work on my everyday car today, Ford focus alternator and thermostat. Really would like to meet the engineer that designed that set-up. Took all day but at least I can drive again.
Now I think I should be looking at the TPS, CPS, ICM and or MAF again. Maybe other issue where masking the new MAF's that I tried earlier. Thoughts?
EDIT I did test TPS with the meter. Under 1v on idle and seems to transition up and down smoothly. Checked it engine off and it went to five and back down nicely. Not sure how it's suppose to work engine on, but it seems like the values with the engine running don't correspond to that with it off. Such as engine off with throttle body advanced so far may read 3v, with the engine on idle in the same place reading may be 2v.
Also have good fuel pressure and I did a flow test to be sure. At idle it pumps about 1 quart in 30 seconds, which seems correct.
Checked the output voltage and it was jumping all over the place.
Your TPS looks good.
Have you scanned it again?
If the resolution is to high let me know and I'll try to lower it and repost. I am under the assumption that if a new MAF shows the same voltages then the pcm is faulty. Thoughts?
Is there anything besides the the MAF or PCM that can cause something like this? Will a vacuum leak cause this? I had read that a leak would cause a MAF code, but would it behave like this? Thanks.
Erratic MAF signal Engine Running
Pogoplug: 20150812_091800.mp4
Key on Engine off Signal
Pogoplug: 20150812_095051.mp4
Engine running then stall
Pogoplug: 20150812_095407.mp4
My favorite. MAF voltage finally correct on idle the then rises and stalls
Pogoplug: 20150812_095448.mp4
My cp9087 has complete instructions for testing the MAF & it's circuit.
Under the heading test MAF signal wire for short to ground
Key off connect yellow test lead to MAF signal pin. Connect black test lead to good vehicle ground.
Good circuit test light on in any position
Bad circuit test light off
Converting that to your ohm meter it looks like you should see some amount of resistance from the computer, but if you see a dead short thats a problem.
Why a short to ground would'nt light up the CP9087 is a mystery to me.
Thanks
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I have a new MAF on order so we will see. I also did a vacuum test today with a gauge while I am waiting on MAF and all that was good so I can eliminate a lot with that, emissions, leaks, etc...
If the new MAF is all over the place like this one, then I am going to look at the PCM, and go from there.
I'm starting to think the blinking CEL (when I was pulling codes) was Morse for push me in the river.
No telling how much fluid, truck is new to me and PO drove it for some time acting up. Could have done it for years or may have just started. If cat was clogged it should have shown in vacuum test. I bought new O2 but haven't installed yet, because I would like to see what this is before I change them out. I have never seen bad 02 cause these symptoms.
Edit: Found this interesting, I unplugged and plugged the vacuum line to the FPR, to raise the pressure. Truck ran better with the higher pressure, so I am really thinking it is the fuel pump. Also on a side note unplugging that line directly effected the MAF. The MAF signal was high around 2v when I unplugged the vacuum it went down to 1.2v. So i am assuming a weak pump will effect MAF signal. if injectors are not getting proper flow, even though I thought flow check was good. We'll see.
Post up the KOEO & KOER fuel pressure figures with the vacuum line attached & disconnected & the flow rate over time, it should be something like half a pint in 15 seconds. EDIT: Was the FPR vacuum line Dry inside/not wet with fuel???
Attach your fuel pressure gauge & inductive timing light to any plug wire & position the light & gauge so you can see them from the cab & watch to see if its spark or fuel delivery that's going missing when it stalls at under load throttle up.
Not sure yet what to make of your TPS voltage readings, were they made by back probing with your multimeter, or with a scantool????
Have you checked B+ under load & at various rpm, to make sure the alternator & battery output are up to snuff, so that you know for sure the computer & sensors are getting the specified operating voltage???
EDIT: After the battery disconnect/KAM wipe & another stall at throttle up, re-scan the computer & post All code Number clues.
Post up the KOEO & KOER fuel pressure figures with the vacuum line attached & disconnected & the flow rate over time, it should be something like half a pint in 15 seconds. EDIT: Was the FPR vacuum line Dry inside/not wet with fuel???
Attach your fuel pressure gauge & inductive timing light to any plug wire & position the light & gauge so you can see them from the cab & watch to see if its spark or fuel delivery that's going missing when it stalls at under load throttle up.
Not sure yet what to make of your TPS voltage readings, were they made by back probing with your multimeter, or with a scantool????
Have you checked B+ under load & at various rpm, to make sure the alternator & battery output are up to snuff, so that you know for sure the computer & sensors are getting the specified operating voltage???
EDIT: After the battery disconnect/KAM wipe & another stall at throttle up, re-scan the computer & post All code Number clues.
I have done flow test using the return line on the fpr and before the fpr using the flow thing on the gauge, both times 1 quart in 30 seconds. I found some injectors for $90 for (6) and fuel pump with sender at orielly's is $82 and my sending unit is already not working. The battery is new but checked voltage all good there with battery and alternator. Also cleaned all connections and cleaned connections on power distribution box.
I will disconnect battery and see if I can get another code. I am fairly certain it is fuel in some shape or form. I may go ahead and replace tps even though all reading have been good testing it, I still suspect some type of intermittent issue with it.
My plans are
Tps
Fuel Pump
Injectors
PCM
In that order. If that doesn't work it should make a nice brim bed lol.
I will try the light and fuel pressure, although I have had it stall with no change in fuel pressure.







