38 is a little low should be 39.1psi (or as they say around 40psi) may be telling of a fuel flow problem or the new FPR may have a week spring. This pressure may drop while driving and cause a miss and backfire.

33 is a little high may point to a vacuum leak some where. Like to see this around 30psi with good vacuum at idle.

You have two vacuum reservoir under the hood. One is for the A/C system and is mounted on the side of the heater box with a check valve inline and the other one is for the engine systems and is mounted on the right hand fender.

You have not posted the Calibration Code as was ask for in post #10 above.

Map frequency is measured at the center wire of the MAP sensor plug and ground/SIG RTN.


To tests it:
On Ford applications, a multimeter that can read frequency is normally required to check the sensor’s output. But you can also use an ordinary tachometer because a tach can display a frequency signal.
Here’s the procedure:

1. Set the tachometer to the four-cylinder scale
(regardless of how many cylinders the engine has).

2. Connect one tachometer lead to the middle terminal on the MAP sensor and the other tachometer test lead to ground.

3. Connect the two jumper cables the same as before, attaching each end terminal on the sensor to its respective wire in the wiring connector.

4. If you want to measure engine vacuum so you can correlate it to a specific frequency reading, connect a vacuum gauge to a source of manifold vacuum
on the engine, or tee the gauge into the MAP sensor hose.

5. Turn the ignition ON and note the initial reading.
The reading on the tachometer should be about 454 to 464 at sea level, which corresponds to a frequency output of 152 to 155 Hz.

6. Start the engine and check the reading again.
If the MAP sensor is functioning properly, the reading should drop to about 290 to 330 on the tachometer, which corresponds to a frequency output of about 93 to 98 Hz. No change would indicate a defective sensor or leaky or plugged vacuum hose.
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I will check the reservoir on the heater box and see if there is a leak. The calibration code on the computer was painted over when it was remaned. I will check the door sticker for a code. I'll check the fuel pressure again, I could have been looking at the gauge at an angle. If the crossover tube checks out, all of the emissions stuff is going in the garbage. Emissions testing around here is just a sniff test not under load, so it should pass no problem.