Cooling Woes
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New User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 18
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From: Montgomery, AL
Cooling Woes
Hey yall, got a question
I have a '66 f100 with a built 351w approx. 400 hp.
The problem I'm having is that the top and bottom hoses for the radiator and the radiator its self are not getting hot.both of the heater hose are hot and of course the block is getting hot also.took the thermostat out and water is flowing. I replaced that thermostat with a new one and I'm still having this problem. The new temperature gauge will not even move off the needle stop. What do yall think is the problem? Any help at this point will be great! Could the radiator be stopped up?
Thanks, Mike
I have a '66 f100 with a built 351w approx. 400 hp.
The problem I'm having is that the top and bottom hoses for the radiator and the radiator its self are not getting hot.both of the heater hose are hot and of course the block is getting hot also.took the thermostat out and water is flowing. I replaced that thermostat with a new one and I'm still having this problem. The new temperature gauge will not even move off the needle stop. What do yall think is the problem? Any help at this point will be great! Could the radiator be stopped up?
Thanks, Mike
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
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From: Sun River St. George
Cooling Woes
Pull the lower rad hose and run water in the top using a a garden hose. If as much comes out as goes in the rad is not clogged. Did you bleed the system by removing the upper most heater hose until coolant came out? Sometimes air bubbles will keep coolant from flowing?
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,793
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From: San Diego CA
Cooling Woes
If the engine came with a serpantine belt setup and your running V belts the water pump will spin backwards and not pump. If this is the case change the water pump for an early model one.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Cooling Woes
Easy check, Pull the radiator cap and watch for fluid movement. Water will flow if running backwards but barely, you should see water moving. I also suggest you remeber to reinstall that thermostat once you fix the problem, the engine will run much better.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Dallas/Fort Worth
Cooling Woes
also check to see if the lower radiator hose is collapsing from the suction of the pump - you may need one of the hoses with the support spring inside to help it keep it's shape.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Montgomery, AL
Cooling Woes
Thanks everyone for the help.
The water pump originally was driven with v-belts just like it is now. The lower hose has a support spring installed already. I have replaced the thermostat too. When i took the t'stat out, the coolant was flowinig inside the radiator, looked like a good strong flow, pretty quick. Another thing is that when i give it a quick throttle response, the radiator pukes coolant out the overflow. Any reason for this? Is the cap to weak? Is there anything else that could be stoping the coolant from flowing through the motor. I know the motor is reaching at least 200 degrees, the t'stat is 180 degree opening.
The water pump originally was driven with v-belts just like it is now. The lower hose has a support spring installed already. I have replaced the thermostat too. When i took the t'stat out, the coolant was flowinig inside the radiator, looked like a good strong flow, pretty quick. Another thing is that when i give it a quick throttle response, the radiator pukes coolant out the overflow. Any reason for this? Is the cap to weak? Is there anything else that could be stoping the coolant from flowing through the motor. I know the motor is reaching at least 200 degrees, the t'stat is 180 degree opening.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Sun River St. George
Cooling Woes
I like a 16 pound cap. The radiator should not be completly full. If the engine is not overheating, blowing steam or leaking. just drive it. The temp gage may be bad. Take the sending wire from the sending unit and ground it. Turn on the key, the gage should peg. Then try another sending unit. Did you run this engine for more than a few minutes?
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New User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Montgomery, AL
Cooling Woes
I have installed an Autometer mechanical temp gauge. The orignal sending unit was working and registered the temp. at 215 degrees. It just doesn't make sense to me that the heater hoses are getting hot, but the radiator and radiator hoses are just as cold as ice. I have spent close to 3000.00 on this motor, just got it cranked and now this problem. Sure dont want to run it hot!! Once again, thanks everybody for the advise, any is better than none.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,793
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From: San Diego CA
Cooling Woes
Try testing the new gauge by sticking the "bulb" in a cup of near boiling water it should register. If the heater hoses are getting warm the gauge should be too especially if the guage sender is right next to a heater hose port on the intake manifold. As far as the burp goes, when you goose it you creates a water hammer effect on the decelleration side, like slamming a faucet shut and rattling the pipes, and it has to go somewhere so it pukes out the cap.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 957
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From: Winchendon MA
Cooling Woes
The heater hoses should get very hot before the rad! That so you get defrost before the motors warmed up. With the T stat closed water flows only through the heater box. It will get hot quick.
A 16 to 22 lbs cap should keep it cool. Used the "Lift-R-Vent" type if OEM look is of no consern.
44Dwarf
A 16 to 22 lbs cap should keep it cool. Used the "Lift-R-Vent" type if OEM look is of no consern.
44Dwarf
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Sun River St. George
Cooling Woes
I know firing off a fresh rebuild is nerve wracking! You think about the hundreds of things that could go wrong, you stand there asking yourself if you forgot anything and listening for any unusual noises or leaks or smoke. But nothing beats the rush when you goose it a little and the engine responds with a nice comfortable roar! Yes I do love these old Fords. If you are really worried, take off the top rad hose and run the engine until the thermostat opens, you will see that you don't have a problem after all. About this backwards headgasket thing, it has happened, one more thing to keep you awake at night!
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New User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Montgomery, AL
Cooling Woes
Hey,
Yes this is a brand new engine, less than 4 miles on the motor.
I would have to say that I believe I installed the head gaskets on the right way, not backwards (I hope). The motor responds very well!! It finally took a barry grant 1000cfm double pumper to bring it to life, the 750 just wouldn't work.
I'll try taking the top hose off and a few other things this weekend that everyone suggested.
Thanks
Yes this is a brand new engine, less than 4 miles on the motor.
I would have to say that I believe I installed the head gaskets on the right way, not backwards (I hope). The motor responds very well!! It finally took a barry grant 1000cfm double pumper to bring it to life, the 750 just wouldn't work.
I'll try taking the top hose off and a few other things this weekend that everyone suggested.
Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
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From: Texas
Cooling Woes
Stop!!! I know we said check the thermostat, but let me ask you this:
Is the spring facing the block or facing the hose?
You said you could see good flow without the t-stat but none with it in. I am willing to bet you installed it backwards. The spring should be facing the block so it can open when the block water temp rises. If it is backwards, the t-stat will take waaaayy to long to open and by that time the heads could overheat.
Is the spring facing the block or facing the hose?
You said you could see good flow without the t-stat but none with it in. I am willing to bet you installed it backwards. The spring should be facing the block so it can open when the block water temp rises. If it is backwards, the t-stat will take waaaayy to long to open and by that time the heads could overheat.