Recommended brand oil and fuel filter for the diy'er
#17
07-16-2015, 09:26 AM
If your going to begin doing your own oil changes I recommend picking up a Fumoto oil drain plug (or one of it's like competition brands). It will make future oil changes much less messy, but better controlled.
If you are going to add replacing the fuel filters to your list, and there is really no reason not to since it is a breeze to do. I would recommend to start looking for the correct size socket and or strap/band wrench. Watching a YouTube video or two, and ordering an extra lower drain bowl assembly for the under the truck fuel filter. They don't has a big history of breaking, however history has proven that if this piece does crack or break it will happen at a time when either the Ford Parts counter is closed or the part is out of stock.
Another great item to locate is a large piece of cardboard for laying on as well as catching any drips from filters.
If you are going to add replacing the fuel filters to your list, and there is really no reason not to since it is a breeze to do. I would recommend to start looking for the correct size socket and or strap/band wrench. Watching a YouTube video or two, and ordering an extra lower drain bowl assembly for the under the truck fuel filter. They don't has a big history of breaking, however history has proven that if this piece does crack or break it will happen at a time when either the Ford Parts counter is closed or the part is out of stock.
Another great item to locate is a large piece of cardboard for laying on as well as catching any drips from filters.
#18
07-16-2015, 10:15 AM
Motocraft filter for me also, but a wix or napa would be fine also.
I use Mobil1 Turbo Diesel 5-40 full synthetic.
Have used the T6 on different engines also. Its really a good semi synthetic oil, just not as good as real full synthetic Group IV motor oil .
T6 is a Group III base stock and considered synthetic motor oil only in the United States from a somewhat recent change in USA synthetic oil ratings. In Europe Group III oils are not allowed to be marketed as full "synthetic" oils.
Mobil1 5-40 turbo diesel is a Group IV oil and is considered full synthetic everywhere. Keep in mind many other types of Mobil1 'synthetic' oils in other flavors are just like the t6 and also are only group III oils.
Redline, Amsoil, Spectro and others can compete with M1. And might even do better in some specific oil tests. But, try to get those diesel oils in the correct weights at WalMart...?
IMO Mobil1 5-40 is some of the finest off the shelf engine oil mankind has ever produced...
jmo
I use Mobil1 Turbo Diesel 5-40 full synthetic.
Have used the T6 on different engines also. Its really a good semi synthetic oil, just not as good as real full synthetic Group IV motor oil .
T6 is a Group III base stock and considered synthetic motor oil only in the United States from a somewhat recent change in USA synthetic oil ratings. In Europe Group III oils are not allowed to be marketed as full "synthetic" oils.
Mobil1 5-40 turbo diesel is a Group IV oil and is considered full synthetic everywhere. Keep in mind many other types of Mobil1 'synthetic' oils in other flavors are just like the t6 and also are only group III oils.
Redline, Amsoil, Spectro and others can compete with M1. And might even do better in some specific oil tests. But, try to get those diesel oils in the correct weights at WalMart...?
IMO Mobil1 5-40 is some of the finest off the shelf engine oil mankind has ever produced...
jmo
#20
10-20-2018, 04:51 PM
Obviously MotorCraft filters are the safe choice.
There is better.
Donaldson P502503 for the win. Better specs, less than MotorCraft.
Oil? The book says 5w40 if bio fuel or extreme use. You'll be hard pressed to find anywhere without some kind of bio fuel mix in your diesel, anywhere from 11 to 20%. Most will opt for 5w40, and Rotella is popular because of advertising, not because it's the best.
Are you in a cold area, like Alaska cold? Anything below about 10 or 15 degrees and you probably do need a 5w40. That would be the only reason I'd even consider a 5w in the 6.7 . That viscosity spread and following the oil minder will have you circulating a 30 weight at the end of it all anyway.
The factory fill is a 10w30, and no harm in running that, period, unless you are towing full time, and even then, it is very likely to be just fine. The 10w30's now are that good.
There is a list of approved oils. Ford wants at least 1000PPM of Phosphorus and Zinc in the oil to meet their specs. Choose a 15w40 off the list unless it's really cold, or a 5w if you expect temperatures to be near zero.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...ry=Motor%20Oil
There is better.
Donaldson P502503 for the win. Better specs, less than MotorCraft.
Oil? The book says 5w40 if bio fuel or extreme use. You'll be hard pressed to find anywhere without some kind of bio fuel mix in your diesel, anywhere from 11 to 20%. Most will opt for 5w40, and Rotella is popular because of advertising, not because it's the best.
Are you in a cold area, like Alaska cold? Anything below about 10 or 15 degrees and you probably do need a 5w40. That would be the only reason I'd even consider a 5w in the 6.7 . That viscosity spread and following the oil minder will have you circulating a 30 weight at the end of it all anyway.
The factory fill is a 10w30, and no harm in running that, period, unless you are towing full time, and even then, it is very likely to be just fine. The 10w30's now are that good.
There is a list of approved oils. Ford wants at least 1000PPM of Phosphorus and Zinc in the oil to meet their specs. Choose a 15w40 off the list unless it's really cold, or a 5w if you expect temperatures to be near zero.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...ry=Motor%20Oil
#21
10-20-2018, 08:01 PM
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Alabama
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Obviously MotorCraft filters are the safe choice.
There is better.
Donaldson P502503 for the win. Better specs, less than MotorCraft.
Oil? The book says 5w40 if bio fuel or extreme use. You'll be hard pressed to find anywhere without some kind of bio fuel mix in your diesel, anywhere from 11 to 20%. Most will opt for 5w40, and Rotella is popular because of advertising, not because it's the best.
Are you in a cold area, like Alaska cold? Anything below about 10 or 15 degrees and you probably do need a 5w40. That would be the only reason I'd even consider a 5w in the 6.7 . That viscosity spread and following the oil minder will have you circulating a 30 weight at the end of it all anyway.
The factory fill is a 10w30, and no harm in running that, period, unless you are towing full time, and even then, it is very likely to be just fine. The 10w30's now are that good.
There is a list of approved oils. Ford wants at least 1000PPM of Phosphorus and Zinc in the oil to meet their specs. Choose a 15w40 off the list unless it's really cold, or a 5w if you expect temperatures to be near zero.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...ry=Motor%20Oil
There is better.
Donaldson P502503 for the win. Better specs, less than MotorCraft.
Oil? The book says 5w40 if bio fuel or extreme use. You'll be hard pressed to find anywhere without some kind of bio fuel mix in your diesel, anywhere from 11 to 20%. Most will opt for 5w40, and Rotella is popular because of advertising, not because it's the best.
Are you in a cold area, like Alaska cold? Anything below about 10 or 15 degrees and you probably do need a 5w40. That would be the only reason I'd even consider a 5w in the 6.7 . That viscosity spread and following the oil minder will have you circulating a 30 weight at the end of it all anyway.
The factory fill is a 10w30, and no harm in running that, period, unless you are towing full time, and even then, it is very likely to be just fine. The 10w30's now are that good.
There is a list of approved oils. Ford wants at least 1000PPM of Phosphorus and Zinc in the oil to meet their specs. Choose a 15w40 off the list unless it's really cold, or a 5w if you expect temperatures to be near zero.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...ry=Motor%20Oil
#24
10-21-2018, 07:59 AM
#25
10-21-2018, 03:56 PM
#26
10-22-2018, 07:04 PM
Obviously MotorCraft filters are the safe choice.
There is better.
Donaldson P502503 for the win. Better specs, less than MotorCraft.
Oil? The book says 5w40 if bio fuel or extreme use. You'll be hard pressed to find anywhere without some kind of bio fuel mix in your diesel, anywhere from 11 to 20%. Most will opt for 5w40, and Rotella is popular because of advertising, not because it's the best.
Are you in a cold area, like Alaska cold? Anything below about 10 or 15 degrees and you probably do need a 5w40. That would be the only reason I'd even consider a 5w in the 6.7 . That viscosity spread and following the oil minder will have you circulating a 30 weight at the end of it all anyway.
The factory fill is a 10w30, and no harm in running that, period, unless you are towing full time, and even then, it is very likely to be just fine. The 10w30's now are that good.
There is a list of approved oils. Ford wants at least 1000PPM of Phosphorus and Zinc in the oil to meet their specs. Choose a 15w40 off the list unless it's really cold, or a 5w if you expect temperatures to be near zero.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...ry=Motor%20Oil
There is better.
Donaldson P502503 for the win. Better specs, less than MotorCraft.
Oil? The book says 5w40 if bio fuel or extreme use. You'll be hard pressed to find anywhere without some kind of bio fuel mix in your diesel, anywhere from 11 to 20%. Most will opt for 5w40, and Rotella is popular because of advertising, not because it's the best.
Are you in a cold area, like Alaska cold? Anything below about 10 or 15 degrees and you probably do need a 5w40. That would be the only reason I'd even consider a 5w in the 6.7 . That viscosity spread and following the oil minder will have you circulating a 30 weight at the end of it all anyway.
The factory fill is a 10w30, and no harm in running that, period, unless you are towing full time, and even then, it is very likely to be just fine. The 10w30's now are that good.
There is a list of approved oils. Ford wants at least 1000PPM of Phosphorus and Zinc in the oil to meet their specs. Choose a 15w40 off the list unless it's really cold, or a 5w if you expect temperatures to be near zero.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...ry=Motor%20Oil
#27
10-22-2018, 07:12 PM
Exactly. But I’d shy away from the old CJ-4 oils only because they are not evaluated according to the F1 spec and we really don’t have any idea how they perform or what the phosphorus content is. By the way, the phosphorus content was intended to be a temporary indicator for meeting the spec. Ford has rolled out an actual wear test and now oils may meet spec according to wear characteristics rather than the somewhat arbitrary 1000 ppm number.
#28
10-23-2018, 01:36 PM
Obviously MotorCraft filters are the safe choice.
There is better.
Donaldson P502503 for the win. Better specs, less than MotorCraft.
Oil? The book says 5w40 if bio fuel or extreme use. You'll be hard pressed to find anywhere without some kind of bio fuel mix in your diesel, anywhere from 11 to 20%. Most will opt for 5w40, and Rotella is popular because of advertising, not because it's the best.
Are you in a cold area, like Alaska cold? Anything below about 10 or 15 degrees and you probably do need a 5w40. That would be the only reason I'd even consider a 5w in the 6.7 . That viscosity spread and following the oil minder will have you circulating a 30 weight at the end of it all anyway.
The factory fill is a 10w30, and no harm in running that, period, unless you are towing full time, and even then, it is very likely to be just fine. The 10w30's now are that good.
There is a list of approved oils. Ford wants at least 1000PPM of Phosphorus and Zinc in the oil to meet their specs. Choose a 15w40 off the list unless it's really cold, or a 5w if you expect temperatures to be near zero.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/product.asp?product=Diesel%20Motor%20Oils%20Meetin g%20Ford%20WSS-M2C171-F1&category=Motor%20Oil
There is better.
Donaldson P502503 for the win. Better specs, less than MotorCraft.
Oil? The book says 5w40 if bio fuel or extreme use. You'll be hard pressed to find anywhere without some kind of bio fuel mix in your diesel, anywhere from 11 to 20%. Most will opt for 5w40, and Rotella is popular because of advertising, not because it's the best.
Are you in a cold area, like Alaska cold? Anything below about 10 or 15 degrees and you probably do need a 5w40. That would be the only reason I'd even consider a 5w in the 6.7 . That viscosity spread and following the oil minder will have you circulating a 30 weight at the end of it all anyway.
The factory fill is a 10w30, and no harm in running that, period, unless you are towing full time, and even then, it is very likely to be just fine. The 10w30's now are that good.
There is a list of approved oils. Ford wants at least 1000PPM of Phosphorus and Zinc in the oil to meet their specs. Choose a 15w40 off the list unless it's really cold, or a 5w if you expect temperatures to be near zero.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/product.asp?product=Diesel%20Motor%20Oils%20Meetin g%20Ford%20WSS-M2C171-F1&category=Motor%20Oil
I would also add that fuel dilution is another reason to use an Xw40 oil in a 6.7
I use 5w40 and 15w40, because my stock 2014 6.7 has about 3-4% fuel dilution each OCI (real values, via gas chromatography measurements) which lowers viscosity unless you've got an oxidation issue.
Also agree with the above comment on Rotella. My worst wear numbers in my 6.7 have come from Rotella T6.
#29
10-24-2018, 07:26 AM
I only use full synthetic Motorcraft oil 5/40. I get it from the dealer so i don't have to worry it its good for my truck. i only use Motorcraft filters for the same reason. Sure there might be better filters out there but why do all that research when you can just get the correct one from the dealer. Make a friend with the parts guy. I buy him some beer and wrap it up in a brown wrapper. He always treats me great.
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