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Thoughts? It's a waterless coolant that doesn't pressurize, which means no leaks or failing hoses, no water means no corrosion. Read a lot about it, seems like an amazing product. Does anyone run this in these old engines?
It's expensive but well worth it in the long run. It has a much higher boiling point and will never need replacing.
The biggest hassle is you need all the old coolant & water out before you add the Evan's coolant. They sell a special flush to run through and some PH strips for testing.
I'm eventually going to get all my vehicles converted over to it.
It says on their site, and on some reviews of the product, that the vehicle may run hotter on the temp guage. What is your input on this?
I know two people that use the HD stuff. One in a Detroit 60 Series powered Pete, the other in a D3 Cat dozer. Both of them said they didn't notice any difference, so whatever difference there is must be minimal.
... Both of them said they didn't notice any difference, so whatever difference there is must be minimal.
If there is no difference, why would you use it? It's very expensive. The "no pressure, no leaks" argument isn't exactly true, the block and heater circuit are under pressure or there would be no flow.
If there is no difference, why would you use it? It's very expensive. The "no pressure, no leaks" argument isn't exactly true, the block and heater circuit are under pressure or there would be no flow.
The difference is a much higher boiling point, no corrosion, you run a 0 psi pressure cap, and this coolant never needs to be replaced.
If you do need to work on the cooling system you drain it, catch it, run it through a strainer/coffee filter to catch any debris and reuse it. So in the long run it's cheaper then standard antifreeze.
And if your engine runs hot enough to boil this stuff you've got much bigger problems then the coolant!! So no more dealing with over heating.
The crown vic cop car that I acquired my 4.6 from was running waterless coolant and I must say that the interior surfaces of the block and radiator looked brand new. But that stuff is slimy as all get out, I spilled some on the concrete floor of the shop and I had a heck of a time getting the slick spot to go away (that stuff does not dry or evaporate). I finally had to mop the area with strong soap and water to get it up.
If it holds up that well on the floor it should hold up great in the engine.
When I test fired the engine I used plain tap water (mistake) because now there is a patina of rust inside the inlet and return ports of the block. So now I will have to use the flushing solution before refilling the system.
If there is no difference, why would you use it? It's very expensive. The "no pressure, no leaks" argument isn't exactly true, the block and heater circuit are under pressure or there would be no flow.
They didn't notice any difference in temperature, so I'm guessing it is less than five to ten degrees.
The four 4,000 HP EMD diesel engines that I operate have two cooling pumps each, each creating around 60 psig. The expansion tank cap is rated for 14 psig. Therefore, it is possible to have pressure within an atmospheric cooling system. Another example would be a cooling tower.
Interesting video from Jay Leno...Evans Cooling » Jay Leno's Garage... if he has been using this product for 14 years then it must be good. I am calculating coolant capacity right now for my two projects that are soon to see their first fill of the cooling system and each will be getting Evans. Anybody who has any experience with SBF engines knows how bad the inside of a timing cover can get due to corrosion, the cost of this job alone will pay for the Evans.