Fixing this now will lead to increased, better gains later. Think of it this way, (because this is what I had to do, too):

Would you rather fix a "system" and have it working at optimum levels? Or modify a compromised "system" and have it stop working altogether? Which of these is cheaper in the long run?

Besides, with everything working at optimum levels, think how much better things will be after the modifications are done?

I have a 4" exhaust system with the catalytic converter and muffler. I'm very happy with the way the system has worked and would eventually like to add cat-delete and muffler-delete pipes, but it isn't a high priority at the moment.

 

I came along kind of late in this discussion and maybe I missed it but are you sure your up pipes are leaking? It sounds like you have symptoms of leaking up pipes but close to a grand is a lot to spend unless you're absolutely sure they're leaking.

Just bringing this up because I'm real good at fixing things that ain't broke.

 

Ive looked at the back of the doughnuts on the up pipes, both sides are leaking. How bad is kinda the variable. I really don't know how bad they're leaking. Someone said it could also be the condition of the injectors. If they're not producing enough exhaust then it could also be whats happening. Im also gonna put a hood scoop near the air filter through the hood so I can intake alot colder air. Im also gonna unbolt my exhaust at the end of the 3" down pipe. That way Ill see I have too much back pressure from the stock exhaust/muffler. I already ordered the bellowed up pipes. Ill put them in and if all this doesnt help Im selling the truck.

I just pulled 5k lbs up the hardest pull by far in this area. 7k ft elevation change in 7 miles. Speed limit was 45 mph, my truck did horrible honestly. My truck got to 45mph a couple of times, but at about 3/4 of the way into the climb my egts wouldn't go under 1100. I couldnt go faster then 25mph. My truck lost most of its power and I had to pull over and let everyone go by me. I waited on the side of the road untill my egts in park got under 500 which was about 5-10 mins. Then it ran sluggish for the rest of the day. Today I cranked it up after it sat for the night and it ran great. Even pulled on the interstate at 70mph at 11.5-12. Im not getting any white smoke like one of my injectors would be going out and its not running really rough.

 

Also heres what I dont understand. If aluminum melts at 1220 degrees. Why do most people say they run their egts at 1250, and dont go over 1250 for short burts. Even in stock mode on my chip my egts go to 1250 easily. If 1220 melts aluminum how can u get away with 1250. I have my egt probe in my passenger side manifold right on the side of the engine. So my probe is the first thing the exhaust sees. If even in stock mode I go over 1250 easily, how can my readings be correct? All engines would melt if they all run the way mine does. Also would an injector going out make my egts hotter or colder?

 

It may be time to go back to the basics ,check fuel pressure,boost leaks,free rev and check for a stumble around 2-2400rpm

Somewhere there is something being missed.

Heck with my combo is good on egt...

 

I think that your exhaust gas itself can be 1220+ but the aluminum parts like your pistons don't get that hot. They're cooled by contact with the cylinder wall through the rings and oil from below. Plus the charge of relatively cool air each time the intake valves open. Kind of like passing a cutting torch over a piston, it's a lot hotter than 1200 degrees but it won't melt the piston instantly, the heat has to be sustained for a period of time with no chance for the aluminum to cool like it does in an engine.

About your up pipe leak, I missed the part where you said you can physically see the leakage.

Also, just guessing again, but what about your exhaust backpressure valve? Is it deleted? If it's still there and sticking it could cause symptoms like you're describing.

Bob

 

The ebv has to be there, its needed for exhaust brake for the 20% grade hills here. How would I know if its all the way open?

 

Well, I'd guess that if you can definitely hear and feel your exhaust brake go to work and disengage when you flip the switch then your ebpv probably isn't sticking. Also, if it's sticking the turbo boost will be lower than normal.

Maybe someone else can come up with a definitive method of telling if it's opening all the way. You can tell by checking the position of the actuator arm, but I'm not sure exactly what the position should be when it's completely open.

Sorry if I'm sending you on a wild goose chase, it's just that I really don't like it when I spend time and money to fix a problem and the problem is still there, so I try to eliminate all the possibilities before changing parts out.

Bob

 

I thought about what u said, and all the weird issues Ill have from time to time.
Like for instance, my boost takes a while to kick in, and things I didnt list is from time to time Ill start the truck and Ill have to press the accelerator for it to move. Then the other day it shut off on me when I started it up then parked it. It would also shut off on me if I floored it and then took my foot completely off of it. I just un plugged my ebv at the turbo pedastal and now it moves when its in gear without me pressing the accelerator and it seems to boost faster. My boost still only got up to 17 in extreme mode but it made it there alot faster. I just put it in extreme mode put the pedal to the floor and went 0-70 unloaded alot faster then normal and my egts never got higher then 12.

Ill grab the camper and try to pull it and see what it does. Ill also see if I can just plug my hot wire for the exhaust brake into the back side of the turbo plug.

 

hopefully this is all just as simple as a new epbv sensor tube

 

Confirmation of up pipe boost leak. This is passenger side top. The driver side bottom is leaking about the same. But not pictured.



Its shooting soot all the way from there to the control side of the ebpv vavle.

 

Here's a link to a Banks discussion of EGT. There is, of course, some marketing hype, but I think also some useful info.

Banks Power | Why EGT is Important