Need Help With Broken Ignition Switch
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Douglassville, PA
Need Help With Broken Ignition Switch
Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking. Help and ideas are needed at this point.
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: North Lake Tahoe
Did you try using a magnet? An easy way to start and stop the truck is to remove the fuse panel, large one under steering wheel and unsrew the ignition box with T15 torx and flip it over. You will see a little metal rod sticking out, slide that as if it was your ignition.
This happened to me back in 04. The rod from the tumbler to the ignition box is probably bent and jammned up l. The stealership wanted way to much money to fix it so I just wired up a switch for the ignition.
This happened to me back in 04. The rod from the tumbler to the ignition box is probably bent and jammned up l. The stealership wanted way to much money to fix it so I just wired up a switch for the ignition.
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From: North Lake Tahoe
To fix it back to factory specs is to remove the broken piece from the tumbler put a new one in (this is what I did, and snapped the new tumbler with the first turn) now I know the rod is bent. You have to remove the plastic top and lower cover for the steering wheel and try to get the old rod out. I never got past this point cause I just wired up the switches and don't know how exactly to get the bent rod out.
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From: Douglassville, PA
I'm thinking that the thing is AL and magnets don't work on that, but I will check and see. I have a screw screwed into it and can get needle nose pliers on it but it won't come out. What position should the key be in to pull it out when things are working as they should? I do have to cover off, what's the rod you're telling me about? Is there some way I can push rather than try to pull the piece out? It looks like there is no way.
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From: Douglassville, PA
Yes, the whole column is exposed and it has been for a while, I have a sloppy shifter I was trying to figure out. I think it's just the tip broken off in there it's way down in there and looks like it's rectangular. I know it is spun a little because I can shift the shifter.
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From: Douglassville, PA
Thank you for that video. I got the cylinder out but the tip is broken off down in the bottom. Starting at the 2 minute mark he shows the tip of the lock with that flat, rectangular piece that sort of looks like a cross out near the end. That piece is still down in the hold. I drilled it and got a screw into it but it won't come out. It is a dead end and I fear I'll need to replace the upper part of the column. I do have it turned to 'on' though so it should just come out.
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From: North Lake Tahoe
If you remove the ignition box behind the under steering wheel fuse cove, the ignition box has 2 T15 torx screws holding it on. remove it and you will see a round medal rod that you can start and stop the truck with. If you stick a screwdriver in the hole where that round medal rod goes into, you can slide the long plastic rod that goes from the tumbler down to the ignition box and work that broken "T" looking thing out. If the rode won't move it's probably bent, broken or seized in there.
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From: Douglassville, PA
If you remove the ignition box behind the under steering wheel fuse cove, the ignition box has 2 T15 torx screws holding it on. remove it and you will see a round medal rod that you can start and stop the truck with. If you stick a screwdriver in the hole where that round medal rod goes into, you can slide the long plastic rod that goes from the tumbler down to the ignition box and work that broken "T" looking thing out. If the rode won't move it's probably bent, broken or seized in there.
Now...has anyone ever re-keyed one of these ignition switches? I do want one key to work the doors and the ignition. So far I have gotten the tumbler out of the outer casing.
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Have them cut the door on one side and the ign on the other. Just have to flip it over to make it work.
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From: Douglassville, PA
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From: Arizona
Just take your key along with the new lock to the lock smith and he will re-key it in a few minutes. If they don't have to make a service call it's pretty cheap, my locksmith charged me $10 to make my new tail gate lock work with my ignition key.