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SOLVED!!!!! Alternator nightmare! Please help.

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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 12:21 AM
  #31  
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I have looked into similar problems and recall that the A/C clutch can create an unexpected voltage drain.

It's hard to find a good auto electric shop any more.

I go to a heavy equipment dealership.They have to rebuild starters and alternators fairly often, and welcome "automotive" work. Local is better than China, in my opinion, and though there is a re-build "factory" in my county, it pays barely above minimum wage. The bulldozer guys are pretty good at what they do, maybe a tad higher than China or Mexico.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2015 | 10:46 PM
  #32  
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SOLVED!!!!!!

Put my new db alternator and once the alternator broke in my voltage stays at 14.2 no matter what. My old alternator would be constantly bouncing around from 13.2 - 13.8 and I thought that was normally how torque pro would read the voltage but I was wrong!!! It was also putting out 29AC volts lol thats what confirmed it was junk. Now I threw it in the toolbox.

So happy that its fixed! The truck sounds smoother now, is this possible with more voltage or am a I just making myself believe it?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 08:05 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by kbarbee95
Put my new db alternator and once the alternator broke in my voltage stays at 14.2 no matter what. My old alternator would be constantly bouncing around from 13.2 - 13.8 and I thought that was normally how torque pro would read the voltage but I was wrong!!! It was also putting out 29AC volts lol thats what confirmed it was junk. Now I threw it in the toolbox.

So happy that its fixed! The truck sounds smoother now, is this possible with more voltage or am a I just making myself believe it?
With that much AC Voltage it affects just about everything. The alternator is grounded to the Truck. So, anything else grounded to the truck experiences the same "noise". Not noise in its literal sense, in its ability to offset the electrical wave pulse of various sensors.

Glad you got it fixed and you posted your results. That helps everybody!

Tom
 
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 08:30 AM
  #34  
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Something we have learned through the years is anytime your alternator is not putting out between 14 to 14.2 volts pull it and have a local auto electric shop test it. It will be the best $5 you ever spent. They can advise you on how to handle every situation electrical with your vehicle. A bad alternator can kill $200 in batteries extremely quick.

Another note, NEVER jump anyone with your vehicle running.

Good luck!
 
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 11:01 AM
  #35  
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Happy endings make me smile. Glad it was such an easy fix.

Quick question for Whitey Ford: that's how people gave me jumps when my alternator & regulator went out...how do you give a jump w/o running your vehicle? I really don't know the answer, and want to be safe.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 11:39 AM
  #36  
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I would like to know too, I like to help people out but not if its gonna cost me a new alternator! I dont feel it would provide enough power with the truck off to jump a battery
 
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 12:33 PM
  #37  
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I tried to explain it as completely as I could here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14928921

It's best to have fully-charged batteries - ones that have most of their reserve capacity remaining, and the best jumper cables you can buy or make.

Pop
 
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