Hey all,

Well, I finally tore into my F150. For starters, I have a 1995 F150 extended cab, long bed, with a 300 six (4.9L), a Mazda 5 Speed, and a 3:55 rear end. Currently at 69,492 miles. I am in the process of replacing the oil pan gasket (Some idiot torqed it down so tight it slid out), the rear main seal, and the clutch. Before I reassemble everything, I am wondering if any of the hardware is torque to yeald? In other words are any of the bolts one time use only? For instance the four bolts that hold the drive shaft to the Yoke of the rear diff, can I reuse those. How about the bolts that hold the flywheel?

Secondly does anyone have the tourqe ratings for the flywheel, drive shaft to yoke, oil pan, bell housing to engine, and starter to bell housing? My Helm manual has not showed up yet, and I ran out of time.

Also any pointers on bleeding the clutch would be very helpful.

As an FYI, a few weeks ago I posted a question on clutch replacement. Several of you reccomended I go to a 11" Clutch. Evidently on mine the 11" is the only option. The origial, which I removed last night was an 11". I was surprized, so I spoke to a buddy of mine (Ford Mechanic) and he said all that I could get was an 11". Anyway, I thought that tidbit may be helpful.


Thanks in advance!

Aaron

 

Aaron, Here are the torque specs from the Haynes manual.

Flywheel to crankshaft bolts...75-85 ft-lb

Oil pan to cylinder block......15-18 ft-lb

Transmission to engine bolts...50 ft-lb

Transmission mounting:

Mount-to-transmission..........45-60 ft-lb

Mount-to-crossmember...........60-80 ft-lb

Crossmember and gussets to frame.45-55 ft-lb

Drive shaft:

Coupling shaft center bearing to support 37-54 ft-lb

Driveshaft U-joint to rear yoke bolt......90-110 ft-lb

U-joint adapter to rear axle bolt and nut.60-70 ft-lb

The manual also said to to just tighten the starter bolts securely. And I believe all of the hardware is reuseable. Hope this helps.

Bill

 

Bill,

Thanks for the torque spec's. I appreciate the help.

Aaron
1995 F150 Ext. Cab, Long Bed, 4.9L I6, 5spd, 2wd

 

Was (is) the oil pan gasket leaking? Mine was sticking way out on the sides to where there was gaps between the gasket and the engine, so I thought it should leak, but it didn't. Changed it only because I got a new pan.

INLINE SIX POWER!
300 Cubic Inches of Low RPM Truck Torque! And twin-I-beams too!

 

you might want to check the PCV valve and breather.
the pan gasket has spacers in it so it can't be overtorqued.... Well I guess I have seen some people do the impossible though.
I have seen them both clogged and blow out the oil pan gasket.
After time oil breaks down the rubber gasket and it splits down the middle.
This has happened on many engines I have worked on, all never touched before, same milage and all needed tuned up.
You can re-use the yoke nut, should use a new crush collar
If you don't use a new crush coller,use locktight be sure you don't over-tighten, you can over torque the yoke bearings, don't undertighten, it will come loose.
After tight I have staked the nut to help to keep it from coming loose.
Good luck

 

Tall Paul,

Yeah the oil pan gasket and the rear main both had leaks. My oil pan gasket was pulled completly out from between the oil pan and the block just under the filter. When I took it out, the anti-crush collers were non-existant. It was like the gasket didn't have any to begin with??? It surprised me too. I thought they all had the little washers, but the one I took out had none. Anyway, I put a new gasket in and tourqued it down to spec. The new gasket squashed out a little bit, about 1/8 inch or so. I assume thats normal. I was advised to replace the clutch since I was in that deep, so I replaced that too. Turned out that it was the original, so at 69K it made sense to put a new clutch in. I just bought the truck about 5 months ago with 62K. I was able to get a real good deal on it, as 2wd's aren't really popular here in rural Minnesota. Most folks around here drive 4x4's. I already have a Suburban, so when I needed to replace my old ranger work truck, I just looked for another 2wd, but in a full size extended cab. I guess the truck sat on the dealers lot for about 11 months. I have a feeling that is the reason I am having trouble with the seals.

Thanks again to all of you for your help and comments!

1995 F150 XL Ext. Cab, Long Bed
4.9L I6, 5 spd, 2wd

 

About bleeding the clutch. You should have the concentric slave cylinder with the Mazda 5 speed (I think ). There is a bleed screw located on the drivers side clutch housing, above where the clutch line attaches to the clutch/trans housing. You simply crack open the bleed screw (if you can, attach a small diameter hose to the opening, I couldn't find one that fit...messy) and let the fluid flow. Make sure that the reservoir remains full.

You should see air bubbles come out. Once the air stops tighten the bleed screw. Then check clutch operation. Do NOT over tighten the bleed screw or you will crack the slave cylinder housing... ask me how I know

Another problem I ran into when attempting to bleed the clutch was that my bleed screw was plugged up with dirt. I had to remove it completely (which lets the fluid drain into the clutch housing), clean it, and blow it out with compressed air. Then of course I broke the cylinder anyway, but I was attempting to bleed it because the cylinder was leaking, so it had to be replaced...If yo don't off road this may not be a problem.

FYI, if you didn't disconnect the line, then there is no need to bleed the system. You can replace the clutch without disconnecting the line (at least on my F-250 5.0 you can). You use long bolts to slide the transmission back on (in place of two of the bell housing bolts), the transmission stays in the vehicle, you just slide it back far enough to do the clutch work. Support the rear of the transmission with a jack while doing this. There is enough slack in the fluid line, that you do not need to disconnect it.

 

Can you get the flyweel(to replace the rear main) off w/o taking out the transmission (just sliding it back) on the mazda 5 speed.

 

Yes.
I have done it on an '89 F250, 4x4. Just make sure the trans is supported. It's a little tight, but it can be done.

Roger Lane

 

Yes you should be able to. When I changed my clutch (Mazda 5 speed, 5.0 4x4) I slid it back, to help I used some long grade 8 bolts in place of two of the bell housing bolts. I do have a body lift, so this may have helped with room. It was still a pain to wrestle back into place.

 

Hey Guys,

Two more quick questions;

How much resistance do you guys see on your clutch? Mine feels a little softer since the switch. I did put a slightly different clutch in and it has five springs instead of the four that were on the original. I am wondering if that has something to do with it.

Secondly, I get a little bit of chatter when starting out in first gear. Do these clutches need some break in time? Yes, I resurfaced the flywheel, and yes I bled the clutch.

Thanks again for all the help. I ended up pulling the tranny all of the way out, but then again I have the luxury of a shop with a vehicle hoist and a tranny jack


Thanks Again