JTORREZ22 : IM A NEW MEMBER AND TRYING TO LEARN HOW TO USE THE SITE.
CURRENTLY A WARRANTY CLERCK AT SANTEX TRUCK CENTER PHARR TX. JUST OBTAINED MY FIRST DIESEL VEHICLE. IT`S A 93 7.3 IDI FORD FE350 VAN SLASH BUS.
I PICKED IT UP FROM MY CHURCH. WAS LEFT THERE ABOUT THREE YEARS AGO WOULDN`T START. I ASKED IF IT WAS FOR SELL. THEY ASKED ME TO TRY TO GET IT STARTED. I DID SOME CHECKS REMOVED THE BATTERIES AND CHARGED THEM CHECKED TO SEE IF THEY WERE ANY GOOD THEY WERE GOOD. I CRANKED ON IT FOR AWHILE IT CRANKED BUT WOULDNT START. SHOT A SPRAY OF STARTING FLUID INTO IT AND IT BEGAN TO WANT TO START. A SPRAY LATER IT STARTED. WAS LOOKING AT A PUDDLE UNDER THE BUS THOUGHT IT WAS WATER WENT TO CHECK IF I HAD THE AC ON BUT NOPE. CRAWL UNDER THE BUS IT WAS DIESEL. REMOVED DOG HOUSE AND FOUND PASSENGER SIDE FUEL LINES WERE LEAKING AT THE FUEL CUPS BOUGHT A KIT INSTALLED NEW LINES AND O-RING NO MORE LEAK, STARTED.. BUT WHEN I TURNED IT OFF. THE NEXT DAY WOULDN`T START. CONTINUED TO CHECK FOR LEAKS FOUND CENTER FUEL LINE FROM PUMP LEAKING. CHECKED IT FOR LOOSNESS AND IT WAS LOOSE THIGHTEN IT UP AND RE CHECKED NO MORE LEAK. HOW EVER STILL HAVING AN ISSUE STARTING UP. GLOW PLUG RELAY WAS CLICK FOR EVER AND STAYED ON WHILE ENGINE WAS RUNNING, CHECKED GLOW PLUGS FOUND THREE GLOW PLUGS INOP REPLACED ALL EIGHT GLOW PLUGS. RECHECKED WAS NOW STARTING! BUT GLOW PLUG RELAY SMELL HOT AND STARTED TO SMOKE MELTED THE BOLT AREA AT THE 12 VOLTS POST HAD TO PURCHASE NEW GLOW PLUG RELAY CHECKED ALL THE WIRES ON THE VEHICLE REPLACED THREE BATTERY CONNECTORS AND LOOKED OKAY BUT STILL HAVING ISSUE WITH THE GLOW PLUG RELAY. THIS UNIT HAS A IGNITION SWITH AT THE STEERING COLUM AND AT THE DOOR WAY IT HAS A SEPERATE SWITCH THAT POWER THE LIGHTS AND OTHER COMPONETES THAT ALSO POWER GAUGES.... WAS DRIVING TO GET MORE FUEL AND MY VOLT METER WAS AT ZERO AND I COULD SMELL A BURNING SMELL COMING FROM THE ENGINE JUST LIKE WHEN THE GLOW PLUG BURNT I REACHED DOWN TO THAT SWITCH, WHILE I WAS DRIVING AND TURNED IT OFF AND TURNED IT BACK ON THE VOLT METER STARTED TO WORK AND THE SMELL STOPPED NOT SURE WHATS GOING ON THERE. AND SOME TIMES HAVE A HARD TIME STARTING THE VEHICLE THOUGHT I HAD BLEED ALL THE AIR OUT AND NO MORE LEAK PRESENT BUT STILL HAVING ISSUE NOW

 

BY THE WAY IM PLANNING ON USING THIS AS A SMALL RV. WILL BE PULLING OUT THE CHAIRS AND ADDING A BED A SOFA A SINK AND A REST ROOM. PLUS I WILL BE ADDING A TV. LOOKING FOR A MANUAL FOR THIS VEHICLE. USE TO BE A WRENCH NOW I JUST WRENCH FOR THE CHURCH. I KEEP THE BUSES RUNNING. WE TAKE TOW TRIP A YEAR AND HAUL HUNDREDS OF CHILDREN. I AM THE WREUNCH THAT KEEPS THESE VEHICLE GOING. THIS BUS WILL ALSO BE MY HOME DURING CAMP EVENTS WE ATTEND.

 

If you post this stuff in the IDI section they will answer pretty quick

 

Posts moved to IDI forum

 

As far as the electrical goes sounds like gremlins and those *******s are hard to find. But the hard starting issue sounds like you still have air intrusion somewhere. I would check around the fuel filter head the schradder valve used to check the fuel pressure will sometimes allow air in. When mine was leaking it was not visable, but I pugged it and the issue stopped. I would also check the fuel pressure switch up there, they go bad just like oil pressure switches and will leak. Iirc both spots are 1/8" npt and go to the hardware store and get a couple brass plugs. Welcome to FTE!

 

When you replaced the GP's, did you use Motorcraft? If not, you should get those GP's out now. They can swell and get stuck. And in a van, it's a lot harder to uninstall them than a truck IDI.

 

another quick check on the starting issues for air intrusion is around the fuel injectors themselves. If it's wet, you likely need a return line kit and o-rings...$35

good luck

 

(Hope he gets his SHIFT key fixed.....)

 

Yes that would make it alot easit it read. At least the periods are there.

 

madpogue...... hey I replaced the glow plug relay that the stud broke off with a new glow plug relay from oriellys $ 19.99 brand is bwd.... it states its a 30 amp glow plug relay, four terminal and a male gender. orielly has a more expiencive one for 49.99 looks the same how ever it come with a harness that connects to the two smaller terminal studs on the glow plug looks like a fuseable link connector or a ground. there is a complete motorcraft control module for 203.99 do you think I should just get a new control module or how can I check to see if the control module is bad, and actually needs to be replaced. any ideas

 

that 49.99 glow plug relay looks the same other than having a harness attached to it doesn`t specify the amperage just that its more expencive. not sure what the amperage should be . but it`s a new glow plug relay. should it be getting hot. once the glow plug get hot and I turn it off it no longer wants to start. it will just crank and crank and it starts to tick. makes the battery gauge click back and fourth and the fuel gauge. if I let it cool off completely it starts right off.

 

sorry I left out that its the same brand bwd.

 

A relay rated for 30 amperes is WAAAY under-rated for this application. Resistance of each glow plug is aprx. 1 ohm, which by Ohm's law means that each one draws aprx. 12 amperes. So that's close to 100A for all eight. That 30A relay might light off some small wimpy GPs on a four-cylinder VW or something, but it's in way over its head in V8 diesel.

The Motorcraft relay is most likely rated high enough for the current draw. Some early PSDs were wired with a pigtail connector instead of just the two ring terminals for the coil circuit (small terminals), so that's probably why it's included. You can just skip using that.

Best relays for GPs are the Stancor 586-902 (aprx. $50) and the Western Plow 56131K (aprx $20).

(Looks like your shift key is stuck off, now..... )

 

okay any ideal where I might find one of these glow plug relay... Stancor

 

Um, did you try an online search?......