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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Sep 21, 2015 | 07:26 AM
  #31  
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The battery was the culprit. Got a new one in and everything is good. .

The "clacking" noise that I was talking about is gone now. So I'll have to keep an ear out for it.

Now I'm on to fixing my loudly obnoxious squeaky exhaust leak. Tracked it down to the head gasket on the drivers side. Underneath the third cylinder in (looking from the front of the truck) there's a gap. Idk if it just warped or if just some of the gasket at that part wore out. I'm not getting oil in my coolant or vice versa so it can't be too bad?
Not sure what I'm gunna do here yet...don't really wanna tear it all down...
 
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Old Sep 21, 2015 | 06:04 PM
  #32  
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Welp. Coolant IS in the oil. I was mistaken. So looks like it'll be off with the heads! I've got a crappy Haynes manual and this website. Now all I need is a free weekend and a 12 pack and I'll be diving into engine disassembly for the first time!

If anyone has any pointers or suggestions for reading they think may help me out I'm all ears.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2015 | 07:06 PM
  #33  
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<p>Take your time, give it LOTS more than one weekend.</p>
 
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Old Sep 22, 2015 | 02:34 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
<p>Take your time, give it LOTS more than one weekend.</p>
Yea I was planning on taking the weekend to just get everything apart. Figure I'll clean what I can while it's in pieces. I may rebuild the carb since it'll be off anyway...The heads will most likely need to be machined...I'm about 99% sure at least one is warped...
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 08:58 AM
  #35  
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Got the heads off....








Things actually don't look too bad in there.
Heads sent to the machine shop.
Had 1 bent rod and really rusty rocker on the passenger side to replace.

Found out the heads have a casting for a 73 car. Would this have been an attempt to raise compression?

Also non of my emissions stuff was hooked up. Will it matter if I plug up the egr spacer under the carb?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 01:39 PM
  #36  
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Looks good. If I'm not mistaken they didn't come from the factory with flat top with valve relief pistons either.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 02:39 PM
  #37  
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I'm pretty green when it comes to anything inside the engine... I did some googling on relief pistons, but I think I'm more confused now lol. What is the purpose of putting relief pistons in the engine (if they aren't stock)?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 02:59 PM
  #38  
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The factory pistons have a dish in them, known as bird bath pistons. These are used to lower compression ratios by the factory for emissions purposes.




Flat tops with valve reliefs are commonly used in rebuilds. They are flat with the valve reliefs cut in them so the valves don't interfere with the pistons. Although on a stock engine that probably won't happen anyways.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 03:15 PM
  #39  
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Thanks alot, that really cleared it up. First time tearing into an engine, there's much to learn!
 
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 06:44 PM
  #40  
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Got the engine all put back together. Fired up fine. Let it run for a bit and drove it around the yard. The truck really didn't even get that warm. Now it'll turn and turn but won't catch. Every time I take a spark plug out to check the color 2 things happen.

1) The engine acts like it wants to start and sometimes will fire.
2) the spark color is inconsistent. It will fire white/blue then orange randomly. Most of the sparks are orange.

With the spark plug out it will act like it wants to catch, but as soon as I put the plug back it'll just crank and crank.

The coil looks pretty old. The ignition control module is brand new from Motorcraft. I'm going to try a different coil tomorrow. The try the original ICM.

DSII does some weird things.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 09:18 PM
  #41  
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The orange/red spark indicates weak. Sounds like a coil failure, had a few of them myself on cars and small engines. They both act the same when they fail.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 01:23 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by FordFETruck
The orange/red spark indicates weak. Sounds like a coil failure, had a few of them myself on cars and small engines. They both act the same when they fail.
Thanks, that seems to have done it!
The old one that was in there was a Motorcraft part # E5AE. Looks like it had been there a while lol.
Added a ground to the DSII brainbox to be safe. Seems to be running fine now, just needs some minor tweaking.

 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 07:20 PM
  #43  
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Had to replace a rocker arm and another push-rod on the truck. And after that the water pump went...knew I should've replaced it when I had the engine apart There's always something...

Since my ranger got wrecked in an accident recently I've been forced to have to drive the '82. It's been pulling through so far, 100 miles 6 days/week is a big difference from it's former job of sitting in a field

After all my work the truck is up 2 mpg and sounds good! Hopefully it can keep up the pace until I get a new DD...
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 08:57 PM
  #44  
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Sounds like good progress. These trucks are just giant onions and you have to keep peeling them - and crying.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 05:26 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Sounds like good progress. These trucks are just giant onions and you have to keep peeling them - and crying.
LOL That's a great way of putting it. So far I've only put alot of time into the truck and not too much cash (gas doesn't count ) I used and abused it the last 2 weeks, putting about 1800 miles in 14 days on the beast, so I had some new shoes put on it!




Went with Goodyear Wranglers (235/75R15). Boy what a ride difference. It handles/takes bumps way better and 65-70mph is bearable noise-wise on the highway now
 
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