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52 Ford F1 tech questions

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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 11:24 PM
  #1  
52' fordnut's Avatar
52' fordnut
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52 Ford F1 tech questions

Hello ,

I have two technical questions about my 52 Ford F1.
#1-I have installed new weatherstripping, new striker plates and dovetails but now my doors won't close all the way, they will close to the first indent on the striker plate but not to the second. I've removed striker plates and still no closing, I replaced them and removed dovetails, still they won't completely close. Could it possibly be that the rubber seals are too thick to allow the door to shut all the way?

#2-for wiring the tail lights, how does the two wires running from the stock master cylinder wire up? I know one should wire to the fuse box but what about the other? I'm running dual contact elements for brake lights and I have an aftermarket turn signal kit.

Thanks guys!

Jon Preston
 
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 11:37 PM
  #2  
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Jolly Roger Joe
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From: Rockingham, VA
Originally Posted by 52' fordnut
Hello ,

I have two technical questions about my 52 Ford F1.
#1-I have installed new weatherstripping, new striker plates and dovetails but now my doors won't close all the way, they will close to the first indent on the striker plate but not to the second. I've removed striker plates and still no closing, I replaced them and removed dovetails, still they won't completely close. Could it possibly be that the rubber seals are too thick to allow the door to shut all the way?

#2-for wiring the tail lights, how does the two wires running from the stock master cylinder wire up? I know one should wire to the fuse box but what about the other? I'm running dual contact elements for brake lights and I have an aftermarket turn signal kit.

Thanks guys!

Jon Preston
#2 first.

You should have received a wiring diagram with your aftermarket turn signal kit. Does your kit have 4 or 7 wires? If it has 7 wires, one wire from the brake light switch goes to a turn signal wire, and the other goes back to both brake lights stop filament. Neither wire from the brake light switch should go directly to the fuse box.

If you have a 4 wire kit, I can't help you. I know they are designed to operate separately from the brake lights, and not integrated with running lights/stop/turn signal dual filament lights.

#1 last.

I have not yet replaced my weather stripping, but have read on here about many others with your problem. Some have corrected the problem (if they could force the door closed) by leaving them closed for a period of time to allow the rubber to conform the the needed shape. Others have said that the rubber they got was too thick, and would never work. Some have purchased a second set from a different vendor, and had them work fine.

I hope some of those who have done this will chime in.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 01:18 AM
  #3  
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Here is the installation schematic that came with the switch I got from Classic Haulers a few years back. It may or may not be helpful. (part #2915HD)
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 09:24 AM
  #4  
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If it's a SignalStat or similar, these are the two most common wiring configurations


 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 09:40 AM
  #5  
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From: Rockingham, VA
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
If it's a SignalStat or similar, these are the two most common wiring configurations


Thanks Ross. I couldn't find the schematics and was doing it from memory.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 10:23 AM
  #6  
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I had the same problem with the door seals. I was afraid they would spring the hinges. I bought a new set from Sofseal and they shut tight but they do shut! A nice solid sounding door now.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 12:00 PM
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52' fordnut
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From: Corbin, Ky
Thank you guys for all of the help! I appreciate the schematics, I will use them to figure everything out from here.

Thank you again,

Jon Preston
 
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