Frame shorting help!
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Central WI
Frame shorting help!
I have a 1948 F6 I am going to shorten the frame for a 10' bed. What is the "best" method for doing this? Rolling the axel up and drilling new holes or cutting the frame and taking some metal out?
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
My guess is you will may have to do something similar with the F-6 but since there is no frame kick up (as I remember) in the rear you may be able to just move the rear suspension forward and cut off the overhang.
The big truck guys will be probably along shortly on this and give you some more definitive advise...
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: in a barn
Above info is right on. If there is a kick up in the frame for rear axle suspension travel then cut the frame in the middle and shorten there, if the rails are flat then move the rear suspension forward and cut off the overhang.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Rockingham, VA
This is on the F4 single walled frame. I'm just guessing F5 and F6 double walled frames are shaped the same.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Burbank, WA
It's harder than it sounds to move the suspension forward. To do it correctly, you'd have to remove all the rivets for the spring hangers and crossmembers, move everything forward accordingly, and drill and bolt everything back together. The part where you could run into problems is keeping the frame rails in the correct position as you take apart all the structure, and hope it goes back together the right way.
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From: Central WI
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Crossville, Tn
That depends, what wheelbase is the truck?
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Crossville, Tn
Well, your rear spring shackles are more than 10' from the back of the cab (126"). So if you cut the back frame off at the very back edge of the rear shackle, you are over 10'. This would not even allow you room to attach mudflaps
The only way to do that right would be to move the rear axle forward more than 2'. My F5 is 158" WB and I could probably have squeezed a 10' bed on it, put it would have looked goofy.
The only way to do that right would be to move the rear axle forward more than 2'. My F5 is 158" WB and I could probably have squeezed a 10' bed on it, put it would have looked goofy.
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
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From: northwest MT
If your F6 frame is double walled(I think they all are) that will add to the headache. Also there is a good chance of rust between the inner and outer rails.
Because the frame height changes as you go back, sliding the springs forward that far may not work.
Will the truck be used for heavy hauling?
Because the frame height changes as you go back, sliding the springs forward that far may not work.
Will the truck be used for heavy hauling?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
IMHO yes, less work, better chance of good outcome. Double frame is the snake in the woodpile tho.
If it were mine, I'd likely just find another right length frame from a smaller truck tho.
If it were mine, I'd likely just find another right length frame from a smaller truck tho.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
You would want to fish plate both sides of the splice. Difficult to do without separating the layers. If you could remove a section of the doubled frame at the splice, it would be possible to splice the two layers in such a way as to each provide the function of a fish plate for the other. I've never worked with one of these big job doubled frames, so I don't know what's involved with separating even a portion them. You really don't need the extra strength of that frame for use as a trailer tow vehicle, even the 1/2T frame is strong enough.