Engine placement
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New User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 6
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Engine placement
I have a 56 that I just took to the frame, put in ifs from crown Vic, and a tci 4 link. I'm ready to mock up the motor and tranny, before powder coat, but I need some help. I'm putting a 460 and c6 in it, but right now the cab is off. I don't want to put the cab back on just to measure, can anyone tell me how far the firewall sits back from front edge of frame? Or if anyone has done the 460 and can give me good measurements. I don't want to cut the firewall at all. Thanks in advance!
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,148
Likes: 4,747
From: Burbank, WA
While I understand your desire to not have to do any more take apart-put together work than necessary, I would suggest this is not the place to get lazy. Take the time to reinstall the cab, with the correct insulators and bolts, and mock up your drivetrain. There's no measurements anyone can give you that will eliminate the guesswork of a custom engine install. There are way too many variables involved to not do your own homework. Everyone's build is unique, and you will want to make sure you have everything figured out first hand and in person, totally finished before you powdercoat.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 322
Likes: 1
From: Old Hampshire, UK.
Thirded here!. Put the cab on. Plus the saddle,inner wings and rad! It's pretty tight with a 460 and C6. You want it as far back as poss to give you as many fan options up front!
Good luck.
Good luck.
tractorman
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 709
Likes: 4
From: San Antonio, Texas
Install stuff as Normalbloke and others mentioned plus engine & transmission.
I would leave about 1/2" clearance between the firewall and nearest part of engine, put engine at correct angle and mount as low as possible watching for clearance below engine, ie: steering or frame parts clearance with oil pan and ability to remove drain plug. Also watch flywheel housing and transmission clearance with the body.
Remember frame will lower with the weight of the engine and front metal parts.
Mine was a complete different situation with a 52 F1, ifs and a 302 which has available front and rear oil sump oil pans. I had to change to a rear sump to clear the ifs frame parts to get to the oil drain plug.
If I am too far off on my suggestions anyone feel free to jump in and correct me.
TractormanBill
I would leave about 1/2" clearance between the firewall and nearest part of engine, put engine at correct angle and mount as low as possible watching for clearance below engine, ie: steering or frame parts clearance with oil pan and ability to remove drain plug. Also watch flywheel housing and transmission clearance with the body.
Remember frame will lower with the weight of the engine and front metal parts.
Mine was a complete different situation with a 52 F1, ifs and a 302 which has available front and rear oil sump oil pans. I had to change to a rear sump to clear the ifs frame parts to get to the oil drain plug.
If I am too far off on my suggestions anyone feel free to jump in and correct me.
TractormanBill
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