* '97 Ford Explorer
* Good Battery
* New Spark Plugs/Wires
* New Starter (two weeks since install)
* Good Flywheel


The replacement starter (checker rebuild) still needs a tap with a hammer every five days to turn over just like my old starter that i recently replaced. I have checked everything electrical--all connections are good, battery good, and install of starter good. At my suggestion they took it off and put it back on, torqueing it all to spec. The dealer was baffled because the problem is intermittent. The mech suggested that it might be the ?crank sensor? My wife says take the piece of s*@!t checker part out and replace it with an AC/DELCO part. Another friend suggests some sort of shim for the starter to allign it with the flywheel.

Help if you can

 

Well I have seen plenty of Reman starters bad out of the box, so that is a possibility. One thing often overlooked is battery cable condition. Especially under the sheathing covering the positive cable near the battery terminal. If the cable is bulging or discolored, cut it back a little and see if the wiring is caked with corrosion/sulfate. If it is the starter wont get enough juice all the time. You will need to replace the battery cable end and cut back to where the corrosion can be cleaned out. If its coroded back too far you will have to replace the cable.

 

I agree, it could be corroded cable(s). One question... did you have the exact same symtoms before you replaced the starter? If so, I doubt if it's a bad starter. If not, then you could have a bad starter.

Mike

 

Thanks for the prompt replies.

I am 100% sure the 1 year old Optima battery is good. One day when the problem returned, I pulled it and had it checked as well. The charge is good and the lines are good but when I try to start it, it sometimes acts like its not going to turn over at all, and then it does. Every 5th day or so it won't turn over at all unless I physically tap on the starter. Once it turns over it's good...for a couple of days.

The problem is damn near identical to what it was prior to replacement of said part. Before as the starter started to go, I would have to tap on it every time I started it until I replaced it. And after two weeks with the new starter in the old symptoms reappeared.

When I replaced the battery I thoroughly cleaned the cable with baking soda mixture. It is still in good condition. This morning the cable ohm'd out to a dead short.

I am afraid of replacing it for a more expensive AC/Delco part and have it do the same thing. I also don't want the dealership raking me over the coals with some sensor B.S. that it may or may not be.

I also don't have an alarm to interfere with the electrical. It was suggested that I take the battery out for a couple of days and then get it checked. Optima's are expensive and will probably be covered by warranty, if that is the case. It has been an unusually hot summer here in Arizona.

Thanks again for your help.

 

Next time it happens turn on the headlamps and see how they react when you turn it to start. If they go out completely you know its a cable problem. If they just dim its likely a starter drag, or if they dont react at all then its an open circuit problem.

 

The electical is good. The battery is good. The cables are good. The connections are good. I tried the light trick a while back and no the radio doesn't reset either.

Thanks for your input, though.

 

It had a bad starter solenoid mounted on the fender. I drilled it open and found a blue oxide coating on the internal contacts. Next time it doesn't start, try jumpering the two large contacts on this starter solenoid. The current is only about 12A so you won't weld anything doing this.

 

DUH.. that should have been the first thing I suggested.. I simply forgot the explorers used the relay..

Glad to hear you figured it out..

 

You know, my dad suggested that the selenoid might be bad too, but my ignorant *** thought the truck didn't have one. Thanks for the good suggestion...I'll do it.

Thanks to all for your input and remember to always listen to your old man.

Later
cmjones

 

There is a solenoid on the starter that moves the gear out and closes the high current contacts to the starter. The one on the fender is only to switch the current to the other solenoid coil. Basically it switches the current because the key contacts and the neutral safety switch on the transmission wouldn't last as long if they had to handel all the current. If the relay on the fender doesn't click when the key is turned then it could be in the key switch or a problem with the safety swirch on the transmission. You might try shifting it to neutral when it won't start. Incidently, I took apart the starter on my 97 with over 110K and internally the brushes and comutator were immaculate. These geared starters last a lot longer. My 92 with over 200k has never been touched.

 

Right On

It's been over a week now and the problem will resurface in a couple of days but now I have more trouble shooting tips that I will use.

 

Now I'm Pissed!

The problem has once again resurfaced. I replaced the starter, and had the battery checked. The battery was only pulling about 500 cold charge amps, so I had it charged. After putting it in it still gives the same symptoms, even with a jump from another truck. I checked everything once again, this time making sure all the wires were on their respective plugs. The starter selenoid has a distinct click when I turn it over and shorting the contacts does the same thing as turning the key (normal operation, I guess). I've tried to start it in nuetral, and time and money are running out.