Issue with the bleeder pin
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 151
Likes: 1
From: Central NJ
Issue with the bleeder pin
Hi guys just put new front lines and calipers in and i'm trying to bleed them.
Manual says pull the pin on the differential valve but the thing won't budge either way in or out. tried the vise grips tried the hammer the little copper pin will be broken soon. Do you even need to pull it out to bleed the brakes? I read a thread that was unclear, Dave F said you never had to mess with the pin but I couldn't tell it if you meant you never pull it out or you never had trouble pulling it out. The brakes were working fine before I took the rusty lines out.
I tried bleeding- opened the master cylinder and filled it left it open with a rag on it. slightly opened the front right bleeder screw with a built in check valve and I pumped the brakes with the engine off. no fluid came in or went out. Is that the proper procedure? It seems like every where I look has a different way to do it the "right way".
I need to get to work on monday. Do I need to take the differential valve out and bang on it with a hammer on the bench or does anyone have a trick for this? Can I do it without the valve? If it's broken what would you do next?
Manual says pull the pin on the differential valve but the thing won't budge either way in or out. tried the vise grips tried the hammer the little copper pin will be broken soon. Do you even need to pull it out to bleed the brakes? I read a thread that was unclear, Dave F said you never had to mess with the pin but I couldn't tell it if you meant you never pull it out or you never had trouble pulling it out. The brakes were working fine before I took the rusty lines out.
I tried bleeding- opened the master cylinder and filled it left it open with a rag on it. slightly opened the front right bleeder screw with a built in check valve and I pumped the brakes with the engine off. no fluid came in or went out. Is that the proper procedure? It seems like every where I look has a different way to do it the "right way".
I need to get to work on monday. Do I need to take the differential valve out and bang on it with a hammer on the bench or does anyone have a trick for this? Can I do it without the valve? If it's broken what would you do next?
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,560
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
I've only ever needed to bleed my truck brakes a couple of times, but I tried without pulling the pin & it worked OK....although it was slow (a bit resistant).
I don't know if that related to not pulling the pin, but they bled successfully & the brake light didn't come on afterwards.
Did you try another bleeder & get the same result?
Unrelated to the differential valve, but normal practice is to begin bleeding at the wheel furthest from the m/cylinder (right rear), & work progressively to the closest.....this helps to expel air more effectively.
I don't know if that related to not pulling the pin, but they bled successfully & the brake light didn't come on afterwards.
Did you try another bleeder & get the same result?
Unrelated to the differential valve, but normal practice is to begin bleeding at the wheel furthest from the m/cylinder (right rear), & work progressively to the closest.....this helps to expel air more effectively.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,958
Likes: 105
From: Houston
Ive never pulled the pin out when bleeding my brakes. Thing is though they say to do that to reset the prop valve switch for your brake lights. Don't have to do that just step firmly on the pedal since both sides now have equal pressure it will recenter the switch.
It didn't do it on my Mercury cause the guy drove it so long with a leaking wheel cylinder that the switch pin frozen. Have to track down a new one which is almost impossible.
My truck I have to track a new one down for it as the switch broke off and the plastic threaded nipple is still screwed into my prop valve and cant remove it. Was going to install a new one to see if my brake lights work on the dash.
It didn't do it on my Mercury cause the guy drove it so long with a leaking wheel cylinder that the switch pin frozen. Have to track down a new one which is almost impossible.
My truck I have to track a new one down for it as the switch broke off and the plastic threaded nipple is still screwed into my prop valve and cant remove it. Was going to install a new one to see if my brake lights work on the dash.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Just ground out that purple/white wire and turn the ignition on, that will (should) light the dash lamp.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
Hi guys just put new front lines and calipers in and i'm trying to bleed them.
Manual says pull the pin on the differential valve but the thing won't budge either way in or out. tried the vise grips tried the hammer the little copper pin will be broken soon. Do you even need to pull it out to bleed the brakes? I read a thread that was unclear, Dave F said you never had to mess with the pin but I couldn't tell it if you meant you never pull it out or you never had trouble pulling it out. The brakes were working fine before I took the rusty lines out.
I tried bleeding- opened the master cylinder and filled it left it open with a rag on it. slightly opened the front right bleeder screw with a built in check valve and I pumped the brakes with the engine off. no fluid came in or went out. Is that the proper procedure? It seems like every where I look has a different way to do it the "right way".
I need to get to work on monday. Do I need to take the differential valve out and bang on it with a hammer on the bench or does anyone have a trick for this? Can I do it without the valve? If it's broken what would you do next?
Manual says pull the pin on the differential valve but the thing won't budge either way in or out. tried the vise grips tried the hammer the little copper pin will be broken soon. Do you even need to pull it out to bleed the brakes? I read a thread that was unclear, Dave F said you never had to mess with the pin but I couldn't tell it if you meant you never pull it out or you never had trouble pulling it out. The brakes were working fine before I took the rusty lines out.
I tried bleeding- opened the master cylinder and filled it left it open with a rag on it. slightly opened the front right bleeder screw with a built in check valve and I pumped the brakes with the engine off. no fluid came in or went out. Is that the proper procedure? It seems like every where I look has a different way to do it the "right way".
I need to get to work on monday. Do I need to take the differential valve out and bang on it with a hammer on the bench or does anyone have a trick for this? Can I do it without the valve? If it's broken what would you do next?
If you have time, you can also just open all the bleeders up and wait for gravity to push most of the air out. You have to be patient, may take 15 minutes or so for it to make it's way out to one of the bleeders. Once one of the bleeders starts dripping, close it off and wait for each of the others and close them off when they each start dripping.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 151
Likes: 1
From: Central NJ
Thanks for keeping me moving guys. I just got a flashlight bled the hell out of them with my girlfriend. Next step is the suspension. My yard should be looking a little less like a junk yard with old broken cars all over it by tomorrow afternoon.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CelticOne
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
Oct 22, 2017 05:36 PM
alchemist1
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Nov 11, 2012 12:11 PM
1eyedjack
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
12
Dec 28, 2010 11:40 PM
Tuvanhillbilly
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
Oct 15, 2002 07:14 PM
