I recently installed a new 5.4 in a 2006 F150 2 wheel drive automatic. Other than the lack of room the install went pretty smooth. When I started bumping the engine over to build oil pressure(coils and injectors disconnected) the starter begin smoking and I had to quickly disconnect the battery. I only kept the starter engaged for about five seconds at a time. The starter had an obvious burn on the housing where it had arced off the bendex. I replaced the starter and now I'm having multiple issues. The starter will not engage with the key but I'm able to jump it off with the quick disconnect under the hood. When I turn the key to start I hear the relay click, I switched it with the blower motor relay and it works. I put a jumper in place of the relay and in the dtr harness and the starter will engage when the key is on run? I tried a code reader that is supposed to be can compatible and it will not communicate with the pcm. I've checked all the fuses and the cig lighters all still work. It is equipped with the PATS system but the light doesn't indicate any issues, there is only one key for the truck. All other electrical systems work properly, all grounds are installed and securely connected. The battery is good and I've kept it charged during my trouble shooting. I had to reset the impact switch for the fuel pump and I can hear it but not very loud, the coils are getting power but it will not fire up when I spin the starter. I had to adjust the dtr but it will not crank no matter where I move the shifter. I've checked for power at every contact (I think) in the fuse box and all appear to be in order. I'm completely lost and hopelessly confused now and gladly welcome any advice or suggestions that anyone may have, I would hate to admit defeat and have to trailer it to a shop

 

do you have a volt meter and test light. does your check engine and all other lights come on in bulb check and when you crank the engine what does your CEl do stay on or go out(if it comes on). is their power to your data link connector. They key is it was just working so how did you go about checking fuses and relays.

 

Yessir I have both. All the lights in the dash come on when you turn the key to run and they go out when you move it to start. I checked the fuses with the voltmeter and I switched the starter relay with the blower motor, seems to be in good working order. All other electrical seems to be just fine and I'm not sure about the obd port, checking it first thing in the morning

 

That's almost always a bad battery, battery connection, or battery cable.

Do your voltage drop tests to find the problem.

 

Battery tested good, thinking I need to test it again though

 

Battery tested good, thinking I should test it again though

 

If your battery or its connections were bad then why would it crank when you jump it and not crank when you turn the key. was it cranking real slow when you manually did it.

were was it that you placed the jumper wire to get it to crank. relays can click and still be bad or you could have an issue in the relay socket.

 

Because it wants me to shoot it I think, I used the small wire off the solenoid with the squeeze disconnect, (not sure of its proper name.)and connected a wire to the positive terminal and it cranked exactly as it should but wouldn't start

 

The relay worked when I switched it with the blower motor, would the difference in required voltage affect it? I know the starter takes a lot more than the blower motor

 

I've also checked the voltage and ground in the socket and it checked out ok

 

Ha ha don't shoot yet i know how you feel though. sounds like your not getting power to turn on the solenoid did you check to see if it had any juice. check for power in and out of the dtr sensor when you hit crank. just to be clear you were down at the starter when you jumped it. and you also jumped the relay in the fuse box?

if jumping the relay causes the engine to crank that is your problem(either bad relay or short in the harness)

 

I jumped the relay and the dtr and it cranked when I turned the key to run, kinda weird. And the wire from the solenoid has the disconnect so Ive been jumping it from above

 

Shorted fuse box maybe? Cause the obd port to not communicate as well perhaps

 

sorry been adding to my post accidentally deleted it. try swapping a know good relay with the one you jumped out. also use you volt meter and ground one lead and lightly touch the pin in the relay socket that makes the truck crank be sure its not grounded. Make sure the pins in the socket are not spread apart.

Edit that was wrong put one lead on battery positive and touch the pin that you jumped be sure their is no reading on your meter or use continuity to ground.

 

Ill try that