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88 Econoline Window Falling Down

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Old May 31, 2015 | 03:49 PM
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Hurtin Albertan's Avatar
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88 Econoline Window Falling Down

Hey everyone. I just got a 1988 E250. I took it camping this weekend and while driving home on a bumpy back road the passenger window fell into the door as it was being lowered. I pulled the door panel off and put the white plastic square on the end of the arm back in the track. Now whenever I lower the electric window the plastic square pops out of the track and the window falls again. It almost seems as if the track is too short. Am I missing something? Any help is appreciated.
 
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Old May 31, 2015 | 10:23 PM
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Remove the door panel and do a visual inspection, check for anything that may look obviously wrong. I would go about watching the glass move up and down and replace the regulator/window track whichever is necessary. That would be in the worst case. Again inspect it closely and try to find the source of the issue.
 
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Old May 31, 2015 | 10:58 PM
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Thanks for the reply 98Econoline150.
I have the door panel off and everything looks fine. The track that the arm to raise and lower sits in is in good shape. The window moves up and down as it should until it is almost all the way down when the white plastic square on the arm that slides in the track comes out of the end of the track. Almost like the track is too short. Should there be some kind of stop on the track? I would think that would stop the arm from its full range of motion?? Has any one else heard of this? Are the regulator assemblies in econolines the same as in the pick-ups?
Here is a picture I found of someone else with the same issue. http://www.justanswer.com/ford/4crej...de-window.html
I can get the arm back in the track, but as I mentioned it will slide out again.
 
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Old May 31, 2015 | 11:29 PM
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Thinking like a technician I would start my next step by looking at the window track that seems too short and check if it really IS too short. If it checks out then I would look at the mounting points for the regulator and tracks that are attached to the door and see if anything is worn out or broken. It may be something is not keeping its adjustment. and letting the regulator move relative to the window glass.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 05:58 AM
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I'm in the auto glass biz if that helps you..............

The affected parts are simply worn out. The metal part attached to the glass hasn't shrunk or become shorter---worn out. The plastic part has also worn to the point it no longer fits properly inside that track which is why it continues to fall out each time its operated.

If you have experience to replace the metal parts on the glass do so as soon as you can. Along with that is replacing the regulator mechanism which will have the new plastic square part too.

Find parts specific to your van, stay away from salvage yard parts even if they're significantly cheaper than new aftermarket. The current parts are 27 years old----the van won't last another 27 years so anything you buy now will be the last needed.

HTH
 
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Hurtin Albertan
Hey everyone. I just got a 1988 E250. I took it camping this weekend and while driving home on a bumpy back road the passenger window fell into the door as it was being lowered. I pulled the door panel off and put the white plastic square on the end of the arm back in the track. Now whenever I lower the electric window the plastic square pops out of the track and the window falls again. It almost seems as if the track is too short. Am I missing something? Any help is appreciated.
I have an '88 E150. I'll try to find the photos when I worked on mine. My problem was the window would not open, the reason was the linkage would bend slightly and jam in the up position. Banging on it jarred it enough to run it down.

The large gear has teeth that are supposed to stop before the motor gear can run off the end, I suspect if you look closely, you will see the motor gear may have chewed its way to the end allowing too much travel.

A fix can be to puddle weld the end of the large gear to block travel, or drill and thread a bolt so as to block travel to the end. Other cars have a large rivet that stops travel.

I'll look for pics I took to post when I can.

jim
 
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 09:32 AM
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These aren't the exact regulators but they are close. The circled areas are the problem.

jim


 
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 10:24 PM
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I have access to an '89 in the junkyard and I can see if the regulators are good. I can take a look if you want.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 11:38 PM
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sorry can't help you, haven't been into the power windows on any of my vans.
but with a name like Hurtin Albertan would you happen to be a Corb Lund fan?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 05:54 AM
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Guys not to be an old crabby guy but all this work trying to save money on parts that shouldn't run more than $100 seems a bit wasteful---if only to me. Since most here flock to RockAuto for stuff I'd simply price a new unused aftermarket regulator complete.

I'm all for saving money but when a worn out part can be easily found and replaced with new it makes little sense trying to save or rehad those worn out parts.

Anyway best of luck on this repair Hurtin---let us know what you end up doing.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 09:54 AM
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68Mercury250Ranger You bet, I am a Corb Lund fan. And thanks to everyone for all of the input. I will replace the whole regulator.
I've never used RockAuto. We have a pretty good local parts store that I usually use but, I might have to give RockAuto a try. Their prices are good as long as the shipping doesn't kill me.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by JWA
Guys not to be an old crabby guy but all this work trying to save money on parts that shouldn't run more than $100 seems a bit wasteful---if only to me. Since most here flock to RockAuto for stuff I'd simply price a new unused aftermarket regulator complete.

I'm all for saving money but when a worn out part can be easily found and replaced with new it makes little sense trying to save or rehad those worn out parts.

Anyway best of luck on this repair Hurtin---let us know what you end up doing.
You are not old, JW! haha
I try to justify all the money that I have spent on tools but fixing as much as I can. Some stuff just has to be replaced (wheel cylinders complete are cheaper than the kits now), but lots of other stuff is fixable IF one has already acquired the tools. Immediate need to get whatever it is working again is another reason for buy instead of fix.

One good reason for repair is the quality of so many of the replacement parts. I would rather fix most OEM stuff than have the knockoff parts. And even buying from the manufacturer won't guarantee domestic made parts. And expensive OEM parts on my 27 year old, non-daily driver just don't make sense.

Plus, I just like the challenge and the satisfaction of troubleshooting and solving a problem. (It helps to be retired and treat the van as a hobby.)

jim
 
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jimandnena

Plus, I just like the challenge and the satisfaction of troubleshooting and solving a problem. (It helps to be retired and treat the van as a hobby.)

jim
Oh, I'm totally with you on all counts Jim----I'm old enough to have seen a huge decline in parts quality, new/OEM and replacement too. In fact I've worked on a few cars/trucks from the 30's through the 70's and know parts like window regulators were built to last. I'm sure that wasn't the goal of manufacturers way back then but technology to make 'em cheap, fast and cheaper too didn't exist.

Its very easy to rebuild/rehab door and window mechanical parts that are 50 years old---something built in the last 15 years its replace and recycle.

FWIW I tend to suggest or advise those new to repairs or not well endowed tool-wise to just get new even if its aftermarket and cheap. Not knowing how something is supposed to work works against someone just beginning the lifelong process of DIY auto/truck fixin' !
 
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Old Jun 4, 2015 | 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by JWA
Oh, I'm totally with you on all counts Jim----I'm old enough to have seen a huge decline in parts quality, new/OEM and replacement too. In fact I've worked on a few cars/trucks from the 30's through the 70's and know parts like window regulators were built to last. I'm sure that wasn't the goal of manufacturers way back then but technology to make 'em cheap, fast and cheaper too didn't exist.

Its very easy to rebuild/rehab door and window mechanical parts that are 50 years old---something built in the last 15 years its replace and recycle. (my emphasis)

FWIW I tend to suggest or advise those new to repairs or not well endowed tool-wise to just get new even if its aftermarket and cheap. Not knowing how something is supposed to work works against someone just beginning the lifelong process of DIY auto/truck fixin' !
Yep, there is a reason these 27 year old relics are still around!

Your comment on rebuild triggered a safety issue about windows that needs posting. The regulators have huge springs in them to counterbalance the weight of the glass for manual and electric power. IF the arms are not completely raised to the stop, removing the motor or crank handle connection will allow the arms to move violently and instantly.

I was working on my 20th window repair when I forgot my own advice. As soon as the last screw holding the motor was removed, the motor shifted from its mounting holes, the sector gear slammed into the mechanical stop, just missing cutting off one of my fingers. These things are dangerous so if one does not totally pay attention, serious hurt can occur.

Having all the tools is great. Having all your fingers to use the tools is better.
jim
 
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Old Jun 5, 2015 | 05:33 AM
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Jim you're one million % correct about those coiled springs in older window regulators. The unsuspecting can cause serious self-injury when/if they let loose. The more worn out the assembly is the more likely working on it (instead of outright replacement) can cause the spring to come "undone".

As we mentioned its this possibility that causes me to suggest replacement for those not familiar with the older window regulators, most notably those springs.
 
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