7.3 harness simplified
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7.3 harness simplified
I have a 1997 7.3 and I can't find a straight answer. I want to simplify the factory harness "cut out unnecessary wires" to run my motor. I've seen a you tube video of one running on a stand with minimum wires. So what wires do I need and what wires can I get rid of ? Thanks
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I think on that motor it had the idm and or the pcm mounted on the motor. I'm not sure if that would have been an international thing or a Mercury thing but I do know that Mercury also did a marine version which are as simple to run as hooking up a few wires. There is still as many wires though, just not as long. These are a very electronic motor.
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I think on that motor it had the idm and or the pcm mounted on the motor. I'm not sure if that would have been an international thing or a Mercury thing but I do know that Mercury also did a marine version which are as simple to run as hooking up a few wires. There is still as many wires though, just not as long. These are a very electronic motor.
I just want to use the engine harness only and get rid of the interior harness I'm just not to sure what I need
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I have a 56 Coe cab and frame I want to use I can fab all the mounts just the electrical part isent one of my strong areas, I basically want to have one main power ground and start switch without the big fire wall connections
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Search for Mark Fugazzotto on YouTube. He's done something very similar and is very knowledgable about the harnesses on this truck. I believe he's actually made a couple for several people.
I'd send him a PM or track him down on PSN. He's a great guy and has always helped me when ever I had a question.
As for having just one power wire and a start switch... These things aren't like a cummins. You'll HAVE to have at least a PCM and IDM.
The 7.3L is almost if not completely electronic.
I'd send him a PM or track him down on PSN. He's a great guy and has always helped me when ever I had a question.
As for having just one power wire and a start switch... These things aren't like a cummins. You'll HAVE to have at least a PCM and IDM.
The 7.3L is almost if not completely electronic.
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From: North East Ohio
If I recall correctly:
- You need 9 wires for the injectors, plus 3 or 4 from the IDM to the PCM.
- You need 2 wires for the CPS.
- You need 2 wires for the IPR.
- You need 2 wires for the EOT sensor.
- You need 3 wires for the ICP sensor.
- Plus some hots and grounds for the IDM and PCM.
This is a minimum to make the engine run.
- Plus datalink wires, tach signal, and maybe a couple I am forgetting that would be nice to have but not required.
- You need 9 wires for the injectors, plus 3 or 4 from the IDM to the PCM.
- You need 2 wires for the CPS.
- You need 2 wires for the IPR.
- You need 2 wires for the EOT sensor.
- You need 3 wires for the ICP sensor.
- Plus some hots and grounds for the IDM and PCM.
This is a minimum to make the engine run.
- Plus datalink wires, tach signal, and maybe a couple I am forgetting that would be nice to have but not required.
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'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
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From: North East Ohio
That could be, I used a 1 wire alternator so that didn't matter.
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'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Madison, WI
If I recall correctly:
- You need 9 wires for the injectors, plus 3 or 4 from the IDM to the PCM.
- You need 2 wires for the CPS.
- You need 2 wires for the IPR.
- You need 2 wires for the EOT sensor.
- You need 3 wires for the ICP sensor.
- Plus some hots and grounds for the IDM and PCM.
This is a minimum to make the engine run.
- Plus datalink wires, tach signal, and maybe a couple I am forgetting that would be nice to have but not required.
- You need 9 wires for the injectors, plus 3 or 4 from the IDM to the PCM.
- You need 2 wires for the CPS.
- You need 2 wires for the IPR.
- You need 2 wires for the EOT sensor.
- You need 3 wires for the ICP sensor.
- Plus some hots and grounds for the IDM and PCM.
This is a minimum to make the engine run.
- Plus datalink wires, tach signal, and maybe a couple I am forgetting that would be nice to have but not required.
- MAP and BARO
- Glow plug wiring
- Speed signal if automatic, or if OP wants cruise control.
OP might be using another charging system.
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From: North East Ohio
Don't need GP's, I doubt he'd be driving a '56 COE in the cold.
Speed signal if you want a total nightmare to get the stock trans to work correctly. Otherwise go with a mildly built C6.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
BARO is also an input to the injection timing. IIRC, it compares BARO with MAP to get actual boost pressure. It *MIGHT* default to sea level atmospheric when absent, which would only throw it off at high elevations.
90F is COLD to a PSD (actually, to just about any diesel). It gets into the 90s-F here, and both our PSD and my IDI still need glow plugs when they've been parked. And when _doesn't_ it get "cold"? In the midwest, it goes down close to 40F 12 months of the year.
Or just put a manual behind it. But agreed, an E4Oh$#!+ would not be much fun to put in this project.
Don't need GP's, I doubt he'd be driving a '56 COE in the cold.
Speed signal if you want a total nightmare to get the stock trans to work correctly. Otherwise go with a mildly built C6.