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Hey guys! I've got quite a project with this 1966 f100. It's got a 352 in it and it barely ran when I drove it home two weeks ago. If I applied anymore throttle pressure than just slight pressure on the pedal, it would bog down and want to quit. So I drove it real slow, almost all the way home (about ten miles) and it died on me. So I went and got the trailer and brought the truck back to the house. Its been a hell of a problematic vehicle thus far. Did my traditional beginning inspections: checked the fuel, gas was bad. We had put some good gas in it on the way home. It was so bad, I went ahead and replaced the fuel filter, and fuel pump and made sure the gas going to the engine was clear and gunk free. I got the carburetor off and rebuilt it. (The carburetor is a autolite 2100 stock carburetor. I replaced the ignition coil, spark plugs, and wires as well. Checked the oil. It wasn't milky or really gross but I'm gonna change it soon. When I put the carburetor back on, I checked to make sure my float was good (and it was) and set my float level to some recommendations I found on the site. Well, I fired her up and she won't idle (will eventually die) and now she smokes (like a darker gray color). She also runs real rough too. I turned it off. Found some suggestions on here that talked about the distributor. I pulled a vacuum on the vacuum advance and it held. I also couldn't hear any vacuum leaks with the engine running but I couldn't let it idle long enough to check for leaks with carb cleaner. So any suggestions? I'm at my wits end as I'm only 20 and this is my first engine I've ever done any in depth work to.
Let's start at the beginning. I know you rebuilt the carb, but are you sure the choke works right? Is it manual choke, or electric? If it's electric, does it eventually open up after starting it?
The "dark grey" sounds like it might be running way too rich. Does the accelerator pump work ?
Is there a power valve in a 2100? Is it good?
Just the first things to check on, we'll work on it more with you as you give back answers.
Sounds like you did what you could on the fuel system. Going back to the ignition you listed parts that were replaced but no mention of points and condenser. Are the points good and adjusted properly, have you checked the dwell and timing?
Yeah I just dug out my old dwell tach and timing light so I'll do that later today. And the choke is manual and the accelerator pump got replaced when I did the rebuild.
This is confusing!!!!!. You said you rebuilt the stock Autolite 2100 but on 5-15 you said "I just changed from a 2bbl 300cfm edelbrock to a 650cfm Holley". So you have changed the intake manifold twice?
Oh, and one more thought, make sure the top distributor bushing isn't so worn that the points are can open and close on their own as the distributor wobbles
With the points closed, push and pull on the rotor in the direction of where the points rub against the distributor cam. The bushing can wear and cause the top of the distributor shaft to walk around. This throws the dwell and timing all over the place, and even though it looks right when it's idling, any vacuum advance, or RPM change will cause it to move.
Well I couldn't check my timing as I boogered up the threads on the ported vacuum on my carburetor. I had to take the carb off, cut new threads. I'm gonna put it back on today. Once I get it back on I'll check the timing and let you all know. In the meantime, I'm still very new to carburetors but what's this for? It was just hanging loose when I got my 66.
From your pic, kinda too close up, it's either the idle adj. or the fast idle cam adj. The fast idle adj. is usually on the same side as the auto choke if it has that.
Yes, that is the automatic trans kickdown lever, the screw is used to adjust the amount of throttle when the "passing gear" activates. The small stud just above your finger on the inside is where the kickdown rod to the trans hooked up.
Hey guys, couple updates here:
Checked the accelerator pump on the carburetor and it's working like it should. And also, out of a hunch, I pulled a spark plug, the first plug I pulled (#5 cylinder) was wet fouled and smelled like gas. So I figured the black smoke and rich smell might be from a sticky valve? So I pulled the valve covers and all the valves are moving just fine. I got the comp tester out and the #5 cylinder has 0psi compression, #6 has 45psi, #7 has 80psi, and #8 has 75psi. All of my plugs are really dark and dirty. I'm newer to the engine maintenance world so am I doing something wrong? Could I have an issue with a ring seizing or something?
05-22-2015, 09:17 PM
