I am building the truck in my sig. I bought a new radiator for it with a 4 row core. I am in west TX and it gets a bit warm here.(100+) I checked with several internet places and most just had a 2 row stock replacement radiator for my truck.
What are you all running?
Is a 4 row to large?

 

Hey, here from texas also (Houston)

I've got an 82 e350 with a 460, not cooling as well as I would like ie 210 to 215, granted it is a 10,000 lbs motorhome.

Not sure what the stock was but I just ordered a gdi 4 row from radiator.com. They were the nicest people, to my door ie shipping and tax it was 215 ( I only got the 1 yr warranty).

Hopefully it will help.

Dave

 

I got mine from one of those internet places. Delivered in one day, and the total was right at 205.00. Not a bad deal. The Zone wanted 260.00 for theirs. I'll be pulling a dump trailer that sometimes weighs 3 tons +. (roofing) I try to get all the dumping and stuff done in the heat of the day (so I can be in the AC of the truck) so I'm not on a roof at that time. Mine came packed pretty well too. Good-luck with it.

 

I made the mastake of ordering a be cool radiator out of jegs pure junk truck still ran hot orderd on through the junk yard 4 core i think it was a little less than $200 cooled the old 400 down real nice. I live in Bryan TX and i gets warm here too.

 

Got mine yesterday,

Man is it big and heavy. It is deff 4 row as I looked inside.

Looks like it is powercoated? Or at least is painted very nice.

It has a plastic plug where the petcock should go, Not sure if I just need to pull it out or twist it out or what?

Should I flush my system with a cleaner before installing the new radiator or not? Don't want to make gunk from the raditor plug up the system.

Does the engine block get much "gunk" inside the water passages?

I'll let you know how it cools once I get it installed.

Dave

 

Dave,
I would flush it out with the old radiator in it still, and run it until you have good clean water running through it. This way just in case you do have crud break loose, it won't get in your new radiator. Also disconnect your heater hoses and flush the core with a waterhose in both dirrections. Going in both dirrections will loosen trapped dirt and crud in the heater core. Good luck, and let me know if there are any fit problems. I have mine already and it is heavey!!!! If you drive in the winter time, you might want to look into a radiator blanket so the motor will warm up to operating temp. Just something to think about it you can't get it to warm up in the winter with that big radiator.

 

Chuky66,

About 2 months ago I changed out the waterpump and t-stat and flushed it out the radiator till the water coming out was basicly clear, but didn't use any "cleaner product"

Don't have to worry about the heater core as it was leaking and I have bypassed it. I don't really have to worry about cab heat as the engine is right next to you in these e-350 motorhomes.

Questions?

1. What brand/product cleaner would you recommend?
2. How long / miles should I put it in for and drive around so that it does it's job.
3. How should I flush the system the best way? Disconect the top hose and put a garden hose in the top of the radiator and run the engine?

All I'm really looking to "clean" out is what is in the engine, the waterpump should be clean as should the t-stat and radiator will be new...

Thanks!
Dave

 

I know this is a stupid question and i do not intend on demeaning your intelligence...but you did put a radiator shroud back on right?
I am running a 460 and the previous owner took it off and she runs hot...I have yet to find one in good enough shape to use. That shroud makes a world of differnce.

Really, any 4 core radiator should keep it cool...however I am running an aluminum one and cools awesomely , but $$$

-Jason-

 

The factory also had a heavy duty cooling option on some years, and part of it consisted of a fan with many sharply angled blades mounted solid to the fan pulley with no clutch.

PS There is a glich in the software that keeps putting "boost" in front of the word pulley. Disregard the word boost.

Look it did it again. How about if I misspell it?

Pullley
pulley
pullie
pulley
pulleyy

 

My dad always used ALL detergent, or WISK. I like the radiator flushes that have the deactivator rinse with them. I believe My dad always used ALL detergent, or WISK. He said if it would get stuff put of his jeans, it would get stuff out of his engine! I like the radiator flushes that have the deactivator rinse with them. I believe Prestone makes one. Just follow the directions. Leave in for 15-20 minutes and add the deactivator. Or something like that. Then rinse until water is clear. I like to put it in for a few minutes with the engine running, and use the time to drive it around the block once to get it to operating temp so I know the thermostat has opened and I'm getting a good strong circulation of it through the engine. I do fill it up and drain it a couple of times so I know I have all the chemicals out of the system. Then I fill with bottled water and antifreeze. We have hard (lime) water here. I usually empty it by removing the bottom hose so as much drains out as fast as possible, reconnect, fill, run, drain, and do it again. This way you can warm it up and open the thermostat each time. I like knowing there ain't no crud stuck in it. A buddy of mine removes his thermostat, flushes, tests the thermostat, and replaces it. To much trouble for me. I like knowing when I finally get clear water, I need to ad antifreeze, and I’m done!

Fishman has a point. A good shroud is a must. I tried running my 66 Stang without a shroud, and with a hot 302. HOT was right. Added 1 shroud, subtracted 1 problem!!
Hope this all helps someone.
Chuck