I have a 351w in my E150 that is getting pretty tired. I need to rebuild it but can wait the 8 months till it's paid off. I need to know the factory cam specs so I can try and get a better cam for it. Also any links to good places to get cams, heads and such would be great too. It is speed den. so what all is going to be involved in making it run right? I know you all are great and hope to have some answers soon.

 

Stock cam is a 187/195 I believe. Anything pretty mild like a 204/212 114lsa should idle okay but get a good custom chip burned for your setup.

Summit Racing and Jegs for new parts...Swap Meets, Junkyards, eBay for used stuff.

What sort of power are you trying to make?

 

300ish hp and around 350-400ish tq. Probably gonna wind up hauling my dad's newly built trailer with it.

 

What's your budget too? I think I know just the thing to get you that torque...

 

well the budget is limited, prolly no more that 5k total.

 

$5K! You can do a ton with that. Is that including transmission and rearend parts?

Since you have a 351W already here's what I'd do...

Completely machine, bore, hone, and refresh your current block. That's about $400.

Resize and balance stock rods. They are good and strong with ARP bolts. $100

All new hi-po bearings, best you can buy. $120

Hypereutectic pistons (Keith Blacks are nice) $200

Scat 3.85" nodular iron crank! Hello 392 cubes. $300

Mild truck cam like a 208/216 .470" 114lsa will keep the idle decent until a good chip can be burned. Lexluthr69 just put in a 5.0 HO cam and got his MAF in and his truck like great now.

That short block with good heads would easily make 350hp/425tq with so-so heads. So-so I mean like a ported production piece. I'd look for some Edelbrocks, GT-40 aluminums, something of that par. Use 1.94/1.54 valves to keep velocity up.

Now you don't need that crank, but 41 more cubes is nice. Also free up the intake with an Edelbrock Performer EFI truck intake. You could always convert to MAF if have an AOD or Manual trans too

 

I'm toying with replacing the E40D with a 5 speed manual.

 

You may want to call Ford Motorsport and check the price of a new shortblock. I was looking at doing what the awesome Hit Man X was talking about with my 302 but, I couldn't find a price near what he is saying the machine work on the block would cost in my area. Even if you did in your area, which is totally possible your still looking at around 1100 to 1200 bucks to get your shortblock done. A brand new shortblock from Ford that you can purchase through Summit racing should be really close to that price figure. This also cuts down time because you could have all your new parts installed on it and ready to go in saving tons of time. If down time is no issue and your comfortable building the shortblock you can save some money, if your going to have to have someone put the shortblock together for you as well you will easily be in the ball park of a new one if not over. I have just seen so many problems with rebuilds and machine work lately I am kind of down on it and all these "certified" people you take stuff to for repair that don't do it right. Unless you do this stuff all the time it is almost impossible to check everything that needs to be checked and know what is ok and what is not going to work. Good luck.

 

hahaha! I just try and help everyone to go faster more efficiently, have a better truck, and have a more enjoyable truck. Thanks for the kind words.

Oh heck I forgot to put down labor for block assembly! oops!

I'd say $300-500 to get the short block put together...so tripndrag is right for ~$1300 for a shortblock.

FMS offers a new 351W short block at $1900! FMS-M-6009-D58

Check with local hot-rodders for good local machine shops...lucky for me I live in the Dallas/Ft Worth area and commute to Houston a bunch so I have access to tons of knowledge and people who have done this. I know of a few good shops close to where I live who do nice honest work...that's what you gotta look for.

I'd keep that E4OD it is a beast and will take some power! Also it is just an old school 4R100. As far as I know, it takes a few simple updates to build it strong.

 

I didn't realize there was such a big jump from the 302 to the 351 in price! I guess you could save 700 bucks easy if you did it all yourself, almost the price of some new heads! I was thinking I should have checked that price before I typed that but I didn't think there would be that big of a difference. You could still chew up 700 bucks pretty fast paying a mechanic to help you or if something goes wrong in the rebuild process. Like I said the awesome Hit Man X knows his stuff. I still might think of buying the new one in my area where all the shops try to do is make money.

 

tripndrag...

Hey I was reading about those GT-40X heads you have and they REALLY wake up with porting on stock valve sizing of 1.94/1.54! Manily just a simple clean up on the exhaust end and grinding out a nice restriction on the intake by the valve throat.

I think it was somewhere around 240cfm intake/177 exhaust! I will tell you on Thursday as that info is on my work computer. lol

If you feel the need for "more power" I'd work those heads up a bit you have with some porting and deck them to about 58cc chambers for some higher compression.

I just need to find a killer deal on some heads...GT-40, GT-40X, Edelbrock Performer, Fully ported/polished E7's. Just depends on pricing vs how much work I need to put into the heads.

Take Care!

 

I'm not a big fan of the "crate" engines. There are NO options and NO service associated with the sale. A professionally built engine does not cost an arm and a leg. We build racing engines but also do some "stock" engines for those who want quality and our prices are very competitive to the standard machine shops. we work on low cost shipping to help the final budget.

 

In my opinion, a brand new engine built with brand new parts put together by the company that designed the engine should not need any type of service. There are tons of options after you have the block also. I haven't seen any rebuilds run hard for 16 years and hundreds of thousands of miles. Engine shops aren't in business to loose money, a good shop deserves every penny they ask for, if people can pay for that it is great, I have to look for the deals and Ford has a great one with the 302.

Hit Man, the FMS guys informed me about the heads. I was able to do a little work on them and clean up the headers a bit with a dremel. The rest of my power will come from new gears and it isn't bad after the timing adjustment. I filled my garage with smoke last night powerbraking. I could never brake them loose with the old engine and the syped 33's or since the engine swap. I need an entire brake job and new front bearings so I think it is time to change the gears! The stock tire size was around 27 inches tall from the factory, mine are now 33 inches a difference of 6 inches in height and close to 16 inches bigger in total diameter. If I go with 4.10's my truck would feel like it had 25 inch tall tires on it, if I go with 3.73's it would be like having 28 inch tall tires, very close to stock. I think the 4.10's would be a little to much so I am going with the 3.73's. I have 3.31's right now and they aren't to bad but it is time to get them out of there. If you know of a good resource for gears let me know. I am going to search this site for some info also.

 

www.edelbrock.com

 

Gears? Ford racing for the 8.8 rear axle from summit racing is 190 bucks and get a summit 8.8 install kit 80 bucks. Go to drivetrain.com and get the dana spicer gears, much cheaper and they are a factory unit. 188 bucks and it comes with the install parts.