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1996 E250 Leaf Spring Bolt

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Old May 10, 2015 | 01:04 AM
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1996 E250 Leaf Spring Bolt

I got some new leaf spring/hangers and had a bit if difficulty getting the front bolt out, so i cut the spring, not being sure if i could find one local.

The bolt is worn and i want to replace it. It's 11/16" and 6" long, and has "10.9" stamped on the head.

I've looked online trying to find one at the typical auto part stores, and even other places i might order them, but can't find anything. I figure i might get one at Lowe's or Home Depot, as i found in a forum that 10.9 metric is roughly grade 8. I also saw a suggestion of Fastenall as a source. I found a couple of prospects there, at 18mm (original seems to be 11/16" whcih is 17.5mm, but it might fit) & 150mm length, but so far only in 1.5mm or 2.5mm thread pitch, and it seems to measure 1.25mm pitch.
Maybe this is metric grade and SAE measurements (?) and i am still looking, but thought i'd see if anyone here has some experience with this.
Thanks!
 
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Old May 10, 2015 | 05:53 AM
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That bolt along with many other Ford chassis/suspension bolts is indeed metric. Personally I'd order what's needed from Ford instead of looking online or at generic hardware sellers. The worn out phrase "there's a lot riding on this....." never fit so well.

Because that bolt is a combination wear element and suspension support part the proper fit and strength is of maximum importance.

Visit or call a local Ford dealership OR big truck spring shop to either order the parts or buy from someone on the business.

Just my opinion so proceed as you believe works best.
 
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Old May 10, 2015 | 09:27 PM
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Take a look:

Leaf Spring Eye METRIC Bolt, Grade 8 18mmx140mm**FREE SHIPPING**

We sell these all day long for the E series for those years. Grade 10.9 metric w/ Washers & Nut.

Let me know if I can help you with anything else!


-Junior
 
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Old May 11, 2015 | 07:24 PM
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I gotta say I have never seen a break like that, it looks like a twisting force caused it, yet the geometry of the suspension, the way it's mounted and moves makes such an angle impossible. I have broke many, one was on a 15 Ton Euclid off road dump truck.
 
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Old May 11, 2015 | 09:54 PM
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Thanks for the input JWA - That's what I sort of planned on I put the old one back in just to get that side done but i won't be going anywhere with it until i get a new set of bolts!

ATS Junior- I did get a metric pitch gauge and found it's 2.5. I'd been trying to match it to the existing nut, but i'll get a couple of those you linked and not have to worry. I realized as well that I'd taken the overall length and coverted instead of the shaft part, so the 140mm with washers ought to do it Thanks!

Maples01 - i actually cut that with a diamond grinding blade. I'd heated the bushing and it was too hard to turn against the rubber twist that resulted. Now i know one solution is to melt the whole bushing out if needed! (Saw it on YouTube)
 
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Old May 13, 2015 | 01:40 AM
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For removal, I always cut the bolt on each side with a reciprocating saw, you aren't to reuse the bolts anyway.
BTW how did you get it to twist that far still connected on the other side.
 
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Old May 14, 2015 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by maples01
For removal, I always cut the bolt on each side with a reciprocating saw, you aren't to reuse the bolts anyway.
BTW how did you get it to twist that far still connected on the other side.
Thanks - I have 2 coming in the mail I had to get it together to move it. I have to get it inspected soon, and i couldn't find the bolts from the places i wanted to order the springs & shackles from. I'd had it inspected and the rear spring shackles were noted, and something i knew already but planned to replace and the springs i figured were probably worn out.
I did get the rest done, although I had to drill out the frame holes a tiny bit because the new shackle mounts used 7/16" bolts. I also had to ream out the u-bolt plate just a bit as the center bolt on the new spring packs was a bit bigger.
So, i'd say the part are not an "exact" replacement. I don't know about other spring suppliers' products (and not sure it's ok to mention who they are here, but i will send them feedback (not that i expect they'll add notes on the website or include instructions). Those are things anyone replacing major components ought to be capable of, but notes are nice.
I bought this van last year for $1200 from the company to whom my brother & I sold our business, and although it's old, it's a known quantity with 200K on it. I replaced the radiatior, and the entire brake system, including lines except for the RABS unit and emergency brake cabling, and the tie rod ends, drive shaft u-joints and fixed the speedo sensor at the gearbox.
I hope the drive train holds up. I did replace an engine/tranny combo in my '73 straight-6 Nova but that was almost 30 years ago, and this V-8 is a whole different beast!
I want to replace the leaf spring u-bolts too, and the shocks all around. Although they seem pretty strong and no sign of leaking, I am not sure how old they are - by the rust i wonder if they are original. Ahh, always more to fix, but first priority is to get it past inspection so i can register it here in Maryland!
 
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