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Assuming you have the 5.0, yes, a Mustang pump will bolt up. I had to do a little modifying of the backing plate (Mustang backing plate is slightly different from the F150) and buy a pump-to-backing plate gasket for the truck, but it was really easy. I got a FRPP pump from Diversified for $42 +s&h.
Hey there guys! I beleive 92pony is comparing the water pumps used on the Mustang, vs the Truck. Since you are going to just replace the Truck style, I wouldn't be too concerned about it. I like the Edelbrock for ease of installation and it can be rebuilt in the amount of time it takes to remove it from the engine. They have both the stock and the Victor, which is a high volume. Unless you break the housing, it should last forever using the re-build kits. Talk with you guys later....
Originally posted by Hit Man X Yup I have the 302 in my truck.
Can you explain this slight modifying? I'd really like to get a Flow Kooler or an Edelbrock high flow water pump.
Thanks!
On the (Ford part) Mustang pump, the backing plate has a round hole for the coolant to flow though. For the truck, the hole in the backing plate was a horseshoe shape - bigger than the circle in the Mustang plate. I used a Dremel and 'elongated' the circular hole and squared the end to acheive the horseshoe shape. I could also have reused the truck backing plate off of the old pump, but I wanted the new one on there, since it was new. I also had to run to Advance and buy a new pump to backing plate gasket, but that was cake. I found the info on the backing plate differences here......
I like the Edelbrock pumps. For the price of a stock pump though and as long as the stock pumps last I thought it was kind of a dumb purchase. I bought my last one through Carparts.com, it was cheap and was a Ford Motorsport part. They are easy to change, make sure to buy the heater hoses that have special bends and replace them. Those are almost impossible to change without removing the pump. To remove the gasket material left on the timing chain cover, use those little circle 3M pads. The brown ones about the size of a 50 cent piece are the best, you can buy a little attachment for your electric drill that those pads will stick to. You can have it perfect clean in minutes. Also be sure to get the backing plate bolts tight, if they are not tight they can push into the timing chain cover when you tighten the pump down and crack it. I think the 18 ft/lb on the bolts isn't enough. I ended up having to take everything back off to retighten the bolts, it still leaked so I took the whole thing off again, put on new gaskets and tightened by feel and had no problems that time. I thought the 18 ft/lbs was a typo in my book or something. Someone also turned me on to some mineral based anti-seeze that I have been using. It looks like white grease and the stuff is awesome, much better than the old silver stuff. I used it with my last engine build and feel I got way better torque settings on my bolts, I also haven't had anything loosen up. It is good for all metals, sorry I can't remember the name!!!
i "replaced" my water pump last summer, errr rather my dealership did....
I broke off two studs gettin it out, what're they supposed to be torqued to? 200 ft./lbs. ?
lol
so i took it to them.
then they (after removing the studs) dropped gasket pieces in the oil pan, so new pan gasket for me
i had em drop in a new timin' chain 'n gears too
all about 1400 bucks, with labor, next time they aint touchin my truck heh
so, good luck!
Sorry 92-2toneFord! Wow!! I bet you realize now, how many good tools you could have purchased with that money! I know how difficult it gets when you are "stuck" with where your rig is at, and torn all apart, then they HIT you with a baseball bat! we'll talk with you later....