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update for teeter tottering trailer

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Old May 7, 2015 | 08:46 PM
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From: reedsport
update for teeter tottering trailer






finally got my toy hauler out of shop. with 65psi in air bags and hitch on 6th link i will get teeter tottering from rear of truck. i measured top of hitch at 27" unloaded, then got 25" loaded. tightened wd bars all the wat to 3rd ring as seen in pics. only raised truck 1" in rear where i measured. you can see how tight the bars are. (all measuring done with no air in bags) do i need to raise the tow hitch up 1 hole on the drop arm? thanks for any help.
 
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Old May 7, 2015 | 09:04 PM
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Your bars are wrong and are either too light or you need a ball mount with an adjustable head angle so the bars are pointed down and then come up to even when you pull up.

Steve
 
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Old May 7, 2015 | 09:33 PM
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From: reedsport
Thanks for the reply. I guess I need advice on what upgrade bars I need
 
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Old May 8, 2015 | 05:37 AM
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I would first suggest that you loosen the bars and not have a lot of tension on them while the trailer is on its jack, then lower the jack and latch the tongue lock on the ball. Then take the picture.
Right now, everything is out of whack in your pictures because the bars are too tight and the weight isn't on the hitch..
 
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Old May 8, 2015 | 06:11 AM
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I agree with Steve. The angle of the bars is wrong. They should be much more level when tight. One of his solutions will work.
 
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Old May 8, 2015 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by RV_Tech
Your bars are wrong and are either too light or you need a ball mount with an adjustable head angle so the bars are pointed down and then come up to even when you pull up.

Steve

I agree with Steve and Rodney here that the setup is way off. When properly set up the round bar wdh should have the bars parallel to the ground. I think before you ditch it in favor of a new one you should try to set it up correctly and see how it acts. Maybe its just me, but in the pics it looks like the jack is probably off the block just a hair.


The hitch head looks very similar to the one I have, the lower bolt that goes through the shank should have a round hole, and the upper bolt should have an elongated hole and serrated washers. If you loosen the bolts you should be able to pivot the head back. In between the head and shank should be a "stopper" of sorts that can have more washers stacked on it to roll the head down more. Hitch head should ride level when all connected with the bars on also, or maybe even tipped back just a hair.
 
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Old May 8, 2015 | 09:25 AM
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I don't know how you guys are figuring all this out when his pictures are clearly showing that he does not have any weight on the hitch and the bars are already tightened..
What am *I* missing???
 
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Old May 8, 2015 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Big-Foot
I don't know how you guys are figuring all this out when his pictures are clearly showing that he does not have any weight on the hitch and the bars are already tightened..
What am *I* missing???


Randy, It really looks to me like the jack is just a hair off the block. Maybe I'm wrong. But regardless the hitch head should not be pointed up as it is. My WDH is just a paperweight in the corner of the garage anymore but I used one of these round bars quite a bit.


Also, for the OP, I just now saw the Curt sticker on the bars, are they marked as to what they are rated for?
 
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Old May 8, 2015 | 01:27 PM
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From: reedsport
Originally Posted by Ferguson65
Randy, It really looks to me like the jack is just a hair off the block. Maybe I'm wrong. But regardless the hitch head should not be pointed up as it is. My WDH is just a paperweight in the corner of the garage anymore but I used one of these round bars quite a bit.


Also, for the OP, I just now saw the Curt sticker on the bars, are they marked as to what they are rated for?
Ok I will adjust the ball angle. There is no weight on the block. Slight air gap in pics.
 
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Old May 8, 2015 | 02:10 PM
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From: reedsport
I will tell you right now I'm a fool for not catching the ball angle. I have a class "a" license and used to pull 53 ft trailers. Highway patrol would chewed me out if they ever noticed it
 
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Old May 8, 2015 | 07:38 PM
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I actually see many pulling like this. I just shake my head as I pass by or get passed by.
 
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Old May 8, 2015 | 08:16 PM
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From: reedsport
The hitch is 1k tongue weight. 10k max. Just got done messing with it. Same results every time. Do I need stiffer bars are another wd hitch set up. Thanks for all the replies
 
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Old May 8, 2015 | 09:30 PM
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Do you know your trailer's actual weight and the true tongue weight?
Both sets of my round bars have their ratings stamped into the metal on the long leg near the bend, check to see if you can find what the bars are rated for.
When you say same results every time do you mean that with the ball tilted back more the spring bars are still that high with the same amount of rear squat on the truck?
 
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Old May 8, 2015 | 10:01 PM
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From: reedsport
Originally Posted by WE3ZS
Do you know your trailer's actual weight and the true tongue weight?
Both sets of my round bars have their ratings stamped into the metal on the long leg near the bend, check to see if you can find what the bars are rated for.
When you say same results every time do you mean that with the ball tilted back more the spring bars are still that high with the same amount of rear squat on the truck?
Yea still bend the same. Trailer uvw is only 6750. I do not know the tongue weight
 
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Old May 8, 2015 | 10:27 PM
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Time for a trip to the CAT scales, you need to know some actual weights. Our old 31' toy hauler (Victory Lane 28SRV) had a GVW of 11,300lbs and a tongue weight of 1450lbs with our typical camping trip's load of bikes and gear in the 12' garage. About the same TW with our son's 2 Quarter Midget racecars and gear loaded, both ways the loaded weight came in around 9,500lbs. I think you may be surprised at how heavy it really is and your TW may be beyond the WD hitch's 1,000lb rating.
 
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