When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you got no diesel, or just a dribble, then you have a blockage in your tank, fuel lines, a stuck selector valve, or a malfunctioning lift pump.
If you got a spray of diesel, then your lift pump works. Next crack the exit line from the diesel filter head to the IP. Don't undo the connection to the IP, just crack the line near the diesel filter head. If it sprays out of there, then you are getting fuel to your IP.
If you crack your Injector lines at the injectors, and you get no diesel or just a dribble, then your IP might be malfunctioning or a bad fuel shut-off solenoid. You can check the solenoid by key-on and touch the electrical connector to the spade. Listen for a click.
If the fuel solenoid works, then it could be a stuck metering valve (INSIDE the ip.) This is not recommended for the novice, but you could theoretically open the IP and adjust the spring until it opens. I would recommend you not do that. But I did it once with a sterile latex glove and it worked.
If you are getting lots of fuel to your injectors when cracked, then your injectors could be bad, but I'd still expect the engine to at least start. It'd probably run bad and/or blow lots of white smoke, but it'd run and start.
The glow plugs help, but just for trying to get it started it shouldn't be a required thing. If you replaced them with anything but Motorcraft plugs, you need to get those non-motorcraft ones out NOW. Read the "How to uninstall autolite GP's" article on this forum to learn how to do it without breaking the heads off in the cylinder.
New batteries eh? How are the cables? Rotted or deteriorated? Could be a bum starter, like tecgod said.
If you are getting fuel to the injectors and the juice is flowing, then I don't have any other suggestions. Just for my info, can you take a detailed multi-meter reading of your battery voltage? Not just 12V, but down to one decimal point, like 12.7V.
Thankyou amazing pictures help 1000 times and I cracked all the lines and they're isn't much fuel leaking out of them at all when I crank not like it should be I will test the silinoid on the pump and get back to you hopefully it is just the silinoid I will get back to you on how it goes thanks a million
You will only get a small amount of fuel out of the injector lines. If you are getting any,, the FSS is working. White smoke from the tailpipe while cranking it indicates you are getting fuel... Do you see any?
Does your wait to start light come on when you turn the key on? How long does it stay on?
Are you holding the accelerator pedal to the floor while cranking?
If you are cranking it while under the hood, you can manually hold the throttle linkage open. This helps push the air out of the lines quicker. If you don't have the pedal down, its not going to be pushing much for fuel through, maybe like a tiny drop?
Thankyou amazing pictures help 1000 times and I cracked all the lines and they're isn't much fuel leaking out of them at all when I crank not like it should be I will test the silinoid on the pump and get back to you hopefully it is just the silinoid I will get back to you on how it goes thanks a million
before you do anything with the IP, injector lines, injector line seals, etc etc, you MUST check to see if you are getting plenty of fuel to the Diesel Filter Head. Start eliminating variables first before diving into the IP stuff.
Crack the front line on the diesel filter head, crank the engine. Are you getting a geyser of fuel?
The wait to start wasn't coming on until I replaced the glow plug silinoid and now it is also theyre is white smoke when we finally get it to turn over burning my eyes like a MF haha
The wait to start wasn't coming on until I replaced the glow plug silinoid and now it is also theyre is white smoke when we finally get it to turn over burning my eyes like a MF haha
I'm trying help, but I can't follow you.
Wait, so just to confirm, you are "finally get it to turn over" means what? It's turning over? So it wasn't turning over before? Do you mean you got it running? Is it running poorly? Is it running for a second then dying? Is it idling? How are you getting white smoke? When you are cranking or while it's running?
If you're getting white smoke, it means you're getting fuel to some of the injectors. Thats a good sign.
I would make sure the batteries are fully charged, and tighten the injector lines up while the batteries are charging. Then let the glow plugs cycle (let the wait to start light go out), then floor the pedal and crank.
So when I turned it over it was was because of a gas rag on the intake went for 12 to 15 second and blew out white smoke it's goes then slowly dies out
So when I turned it over it was was because of a gas rag on the intake went for 12 to 15 second and blew out white smoke it's goes then slowly dies out 1
I think your terminology is off. Turning over means the engine is being turned by the starter... same as cranking. These engines wont start if they aren't cranking fast enough. You could try pull start ing it if it is a manual trans. Plugging in the block heater might help also.
