Changing my rear brake shoes has led to a chain reaction of problems, and I am going to replace the whole brake system.

I'm trying to put together a list of what I need, and so far I have:

* Master Cylinder
* Vacuum Booster w/ Cruise Control
* Proportioning Valve
* Stainless Steel Brake Line Set for 4x4 Short Bed

I am having a little trouble figuring out what hoses to use. I think there is a front right and front left, and those come in braided stainless steel. I think there is one rear hose but the only braided stainless I can find is extended -- is that all right?

I think I need some brake line clips, but I'm not sure how many (the whole underside of the truck is covered in black rust proofing, and it's hard to tell how it should be).

I'd be glad to know if I'm missing anything.

 

I think there's a front left, front right, and the drop from the frame to the axle. An extended rear is OK.

Clips on the frame are usually plastic. Just get new stainless clips from Speedway Motors - enough to secure the line every 18 to 24 inches.

What is leading you to conclude the entire system needs to be replaced? It seems like overkill and ya might be wasting your money.

Just a tip... don't turn in your cores until you know the replacement part works!

 

You're right -- I might not need to replace the Master Cylinder and Booster, but everything else has a coating of black paint (I assume some sloppy attempt at rust proofing) and/or buildup on it -- so much that I can't really tell the condition of the hoses, and disconnecting and reconnecting is a mess. The front left hose actually runs under the spring! The rear line seems to be a bad fit and gets in the way of jack points. And the proportioning valve is a real mess:



I'm just sorta mapping out a worst-case scenario.

I can get the rear brakes going again with just a new hose, I think.

 

Ah I see. Well at least ya don't have to deal with a ton of rust.

On the prop valve, I'd leave it alone and not replace it. Consider applying paint remover to the fittings to at least allow it to be wrenched on if needed. Avoid getting it on rubber and the plastic connector. Then do the same at other fittings and unions along the system. Go ahead and replace all the rubber hoses to establish a baseline of 'known good" parts.

 

Yeah, it's kinda like someone sprayed Eastwood on everything -- frame, springs, shocks -- and didn't care if it sealed off bolts or whatever else was there. I'm new to all of this, but it doesn't seem like a very good approach.

I will try that with the prop valve -- I'm guessing old is better than new, if it can be cleaned up? I couldn't say it any better than establishing a baseline of known good parts. Thank you.

 

D5TZ-2B257-B .. Brake Pressure Differential (aka proportioning) Valve-Use with disc brakes / Marked: D5TA-2B524-FA or FB / Obsolete

1975/79 F100/150 2WD/4WD / 1975/79 F250 2WD with single piston caliper disc brakes / 1975/79 E100/150 / 1976/79 Bronco / 1976/79 F250 4WD / 1979 F350 4WD

C8AZ-2B264-A .. Brake Pressure Differential Valve Warning Lamp Switch / Available from Ford & auto parts stores.

1968/79 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline / Misc. 1968/79 FoMoCo Passenger Cars.

 

For the replacement lines, mild steel is easier to work with, easier to seal and can be modified with common flare tools if needed. Stainless is very hard to flare and requires a high end tool. Also more expensive.