Brake Stuff for 79 4x4
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Brake Stuff for 79 4x4
Changing my rear brake shoes has led to a chain reaction of problems, and I am going to replace the whole brake system.
I'm trying to put together a list of what I need, and so far I have:
* Master Cylinder
* Vacuum Booster w/ Cruise Control
* Proportioning Valve
* Stainless Steel Brake Line Set for 4x4 Short Bed
I am having a little trouble figuring out what hoses to use. I think there is a front right and front left, and those come in braided stainless steel. I think there is one rear hose but the only braided stainless I can find is extended -- is that all right?
I think I need some brake line clips, but I'm not sure how many (the whole underside of the truck is covered in black rust proofing, and it's hard to tell how it should be).
I'd be glad to know if I'm missing anything.
I'm trying to put together a list of what I need, and so far I have:
* Master Cylinder
* Vacuum Booster w/ Cruise Control
* Proportioning Valve
* Stainless Steel Brake Line Set for 4x4 Short Bed
I am having a little trouble figuring out what hoses to use. I think there is a front right and front left, and those come in braided stainless steel. I think there is one rear hose but the only braided stainless I can find is extended -- is that all right?
I think I need some brake line clips, but I'm not sure how many (the whole underside of the truck is covered in black rust proofing, and it's hard to tell how it should be).
I'd be glad to know if I'm missing anything.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
I think there's a front left, front right, and the drop from the frame to the axle. An extended rear is OK.
Clips on the frame are usually plastic. Just get new stainless clips from Speedway Motors - enough to secure the line every 18 to 24 inches.
What is leading you to conclude the entire system needs to be replaced? It seems like overkill and ya might be wasting your money.
Just a tip... don't turn in your cores until you know the replacement part works!
Clips on the frame are usually plastic. Just get new stainless clips from Speedway Motors - enough to secure the line every 18 to 24 inches.
What is leading you to conclude the entire system needs to be replaced? It seems like overkill and ya might be wasting your money.
Just a tip... don't turn in your cores until you know the replacement part works!
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I'm just sorta mapping out a worst-case scenario.
I can get the rear brakes going again with just a new hose, I think.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
Ah I see. Well at least ya don't have to deal with a ton of rust.
On the prop valve, I'd leave it alone and not replace it. Consider applying paint remover to the fittings to at least allow it to be wrenched on if needed. Avoid getting it on rubber and the plastic connector. Then do the same at other fittings and unions along the system. Go ahead and replace all the rubber hoses to establish a baseline of 'known good" parts.
On the prop valve, I'd leave it alone and not replace it. Consider applying paint remover to the fittings to at least allow it to be wrenched on if needed. Avoid getting it on rubber and the plastic connector. Then do the same at other fittings and unions along the system. Go ahead and replace all the rubber hoses to establish a baseline of 'known good" parts.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 19
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Ah I see. Well at least ya don't have to deal with a ton of rust.
On the prop valve, I'd leave it alone and not replace it. Consider applying paint remover to the fittings to at least allow it to be wrenched on if needed. Avoid getting it on rubber and the plastic connector. Then do the same at other fittings and unions along the system. Go ahead and replace all the rubber hoses to establish a baseline of 'known good" parts.
On the prop valve, I'd leave it alone and not replace it. Consider applying paint remover to the fittings to at least allow it to be wrenched on if needed. Avoid getting it on rubber and the plastic connector. Then do the same at other fittings and unions along the system. Go ahead and replace all the rubber hoses to establish a baseline of 'known good" parts.
I will try that with the prop valve -- I'm guessing old is better than new, if it can be cleaned up? I couldn't say it any better than establishing a baseline of known good parts. Thank you.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
D5TZ-2B257-B .. Brake Pressure Differential (aka proportioning) Valve-Use with disc brakes / Marked: D5TA-2B524-FA or FB / Obsolete
1975/79 F100/150 2WD/4WD / 1975/79 F250 2WD with single piston caliper disc brakes / 1975/79 E100/150 / 1976/79 Bronco / 1976/79 F250 4WD / 1979 F350 4WD
C8AZ-2B264-A .. Brake Pressure Differential Valve Warning Lamp Switch / Available from Ford & auto parts stores.
1968/79 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline / Misc. 1968/79 FoMoCo Passenger Cars.
1975/79 F100/150 2WD/4WD / 1975/79 F250 2WD with single piston caliper disc brakes / 1975/79 E100/150 / 1976/79 Bronco / 1976/79 F250 4WD / 1979 F350 4WD
C8AZ-2B264-A .. Brake Pressure Differential Valve Warning Lamp Switch / Available from Ford & auto parts stores.
1968/79 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline / Misc. 1968/79 FoMoCo Passenger Cars.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
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For the replacement lines, mild steel is easier to work with, easier to seal and can be modified with common flare tools if needed. Stainless is very hard to flare and requires a high end tool. Also more expensive.
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