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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 11:43 AM
  #16  
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Did you even read any of the linked threads or anything?

WTS for a second or two followed by clicking is bad plugs.

Again, this info has been covered countless times......
 
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 01:02 PM
  #17  
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Ok I'll test the plugs and replace the bad ones. Ether is glow plugs in a can though! Lol
 
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 07:29 PM
  #18  
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I pulled the wires off the glow plugs is there any way I can disable the relay? Started the same it has been just needed a little shot of starting fluid. My diesel buddy said try carb cleaner and also try wd40 but neither did any thing the ether did the trick. Any better things to use for starting? Ether does NOT destroy diesels morons with ether destroy diesels. Also wandering if the block heater would help starting. It's been around 60 but a heater would warm up the engine better. Just bought this so I hope the heater works and it doesn't catch on fire. Lol. Thanks again.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 09:16 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by idiguy90
Any better things to use for starting?
Yes, glow plugs that work...

Originally Posted by sherwin johnson
Did you even read any of the linked threads or anything?

WTS for a second or two followed by clicking is bad plugs.

Again, this info has been covered countless times......
^^^ This ^^^
I bet if you read that you'll also learn how to disable the glow plug relay as well.
Originally Posted by idiguy90
Also wandering if the block heater would help starting. It's been around 60 but a heater would warm up the engine better.
Yes the block heater will help starting. But replacing the glow plugs with the proper Motorcraft/Beru and having a functioning glow plug system would be much better. Please read the glow plug sticky before you ask any more questions.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 09:31 PM
  #20  
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Just to make it clear. I'M NOT RUNNING GLOW PLUGS. I paid 400 dollars for it and it's got 250+ thousand miles I'm not spending 100 bucks on a knock around farm truck when I can spend 3 on a can of starting fluid every couple weeks. I think plugging it in will help as it warms fluids. The truck starts easy with ether (just be smart about the amount) and runs out fine and restarts easy after the first start.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2015 | 04:39 AM
  #21  
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if the block heater works and you plug it in 3-4 hours before starting it for the day it should fire rite up.
to disable the glow plug circuit, find the hot wire going to the glow plug relay and disconnect it. tape the end off so it will not short out . i would also trace the wire back to the battery wire on the fender mount starter relay and disconnect it there too, and tape those ends off.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2015 | 07:55 PM
  #22  
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I'm running hot, good oil pressure but the coolant gauge doesn't seem to work. Think I unplugged something messing with the glow plugs towards the front of engine could be sending unit or something I guess. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 12:55 PM
  #23  
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the temp sensor tells the glow plug controller if the engine is hot, then it shuts the glow plugs off until the engine cools off again. if the temp gauge is reading cold, the glow plugs should always be working.
coolant temp sensor is on the driver side head, about between the 2 front cylinders near the exhaust manifold.

the cold idle and timing advance sensor in in the top if the engine near the thermostat neck pretty much under the alternator.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 02:12 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
...
if anything but motorcraft/beru ZD-9's i would not even bother trying to test them, just order a set from rock auto and replace them.
they are only $9.13 each....
This This This....


ZD-9's are THE only GP in my opinion.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 06:31 PM
  #25  
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Cylinder 4 gp has resistance .3 everything else has .0-.1. Is it bad? What resistance does the inline fuse to battery supposed to have? And between what pins?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 06:37 PM
  #26  
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inline fuse should not have any resistance.

as for glow plug resistance, if i take them out, i replace them. i don't even check them if they are not motorcrafts.
if they are motorcrafts, i check them by putting power to them and see if they light up.
if they do i put them on the side incase someone needs them. i replace them if they were taken out of the engine.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 06:49 PM
  #27  
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if you only paid 400 bucks for it why not run glowplugs? they're one of the cheapest fixes you can do on these engines.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 09:04 PM
  #28  
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What would be appropriate test for plugs in the engine? I have an injector line broke off in 1 injector so it's spraying really bad and that's first priority lol. I was impressed with the engine access on the e350 with panel and air cleaner removed. But the lines are really close together out of injector pump and the broken ones on bottom so that's gonna be fun to change. Pretty beefed up being it was a former ambulance.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 09:12 PM
  #29  
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Well for one if you read this thread you'll know everything you need to know about the glow plug system, testing etc.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...le-system.html

lines are always a blast,
 
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Old May 1, 2015 | 07:51 AM
  #30  
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I'll get some plugs at junkyard and resistance and do the battery test. Might as well grab a relay while I'm there and get the fuse at orielly since u said it should have no resistence.
 
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