I know there are lots of post on here about spring swaps, I have read through a lot of them.


If I'm on the right track I think the V front and B rear springs plus adding a rear sway bar is the way to go for me.


Where I'm getting lost, confused or overwhelmed is what will this do to my ride height? Do I need the taller blocks or do the mod (add springs)?


I would like to keep the rear height the same while raising the front a little, around 1 1/2".


Thanks for the help, Tim

 

Hi! I'll bet Tom will jump on here and offer some of his expert advice soon! :

Could we get you to post up some of your vehicle specifics? Engine, 4wd, mileage, ect. There are a few factors when it comes to figuring out your end ride height after a spring swap. I think the engines weight varies enough make the ride heights different.

Have you had a chance to check out the Ride Height Thread? You might take a measurement of what you have currently and post it up here and might be able to help you find the spring swap that will get you closest to what you want.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...easurents.html

 

I have 5 post now so I should be able to add a signature soon.


My X is a 2000 V10 4x4, 4:30 gears, all stock. 167k


265-75-16 tires.


Ride height, center of wheels to wheel well.
Front = 22 3/4"
Rear = 24 1/4"

 

Fwiw, i have an 2000 x with a 7.3, I put a Helwig rear sway bar in and a year or so later I installed V and B's, I'm not sure of the weight differances between the 6.8 and the 7.3, I would think they are fairly close. In my case I couldn't be leave the differances in the truck, it is without a dought the best 2 things I have ever done to it. I did not install the F-350 blocks, I think you will gain an additional 1.5" with the 350 blocks over the stock x blocks.

 

Thanks for the cue Drunken Unicorn.

Hi Tim and welcome to the EX family and the best darned place on the web for Ex help, info and advice!.

A V/B swap and adding a rear sway bar sound like an excellent plan Tim. Do you do any towing with your EX, it will be a super sweet setup with those 4.30 gears!

With your current measurements of 22 3/4" front and 24 1/2" rear and doing a V /B swap without the rear B code mods you will end up with (given a small +/- variance) about 24 1/2" front and 24 1/4" rear, slightly negative rake which may look like more due to the body lines. The V codes will provide about 1.77" of ride height increase on a V-10 EX (And only 1.5" on a PSD so they are .25" heavier ) and untouched B codes (with the top overload leaf removed to protect the EX's rear AC lines) should be more or less equal in ride height to the stock EX springs. If you tow or carry a decent load of people or gear it will take on a rear squat stance. That isn't really bad news as it opens the door for you to custom design your rear setup to what you wish as an end result! I would suggest that you first determine just how you want the rig to sit and ride with the new springs taking into consideration the typical load it sees. Then from there we can work on adjusting the mod to the rear springs to get the exact stance you want in the end. Easy peasy! (Really )
When I did my spring swap I knew I wanted the end product to sit nearly level while loaded with our crew and hitched to our very tongue heavy travel trailer (1450lbs TW). So I went a little deeper into the rear B code mod than most, I did the typical mod, added the F-350 tapered blocks and cut my old slapper traction bar down and added 2 sections of them between my new taller blocks and the spring pack. The unloaded rake is a little rear high as seen in my signature pic but when loaded it does ride nearly level as seen here with our old toyhauler, approx 1460lbs TW and 9600lbs total weight in this pic.


And my modded and then some rear B codes.


With a little planning and some elbow grease we can help you dial in exactly what you want your EX to be!

 

Tom, nice write up.

Not to take this off course but I think it may be worth asking.

Do you think the additional 2 small leave do anything at all for the ride or are they purely a spacer in effect that is maybe safer than a taller block?
If it a spacer in effect, which by the length of them it appears that way, why not a taller block? I'd like to know how in the hell you drilled the second hole in that spring for each side.

I did used X codes and used B codes that I modded and got pretty much 2" exactly. I don't like the "reverse rake that really isn't but looks that way" so I'm debating on the two leaves or taller block.


To the original poster, whatever way you go, handling wise you will be happy with it.

 

Oh yeah, this spring swap transforms the EX into a completely different animal!

 

I just put x code springs on the front of an excursion diesel and let me tell you the spring swap was fantastic.


Your concern of still keeping some rake will have to be addressed if you do in fact have rake now. I'm sure you have some but again how much and what all you do with your excursion will also factor into this. You might lower the jack with tires mounted and the front springs swapped and find your beast nose high. But...and there is a possible chance that you swap the front springs and your excursion sits level. Are you ok with that? Maybe you would prefer that?
If you are ok with sitting level and the excursion post swap is now sitting at level or as close as the human eye can detect...I suggest to you swap the front springs only. Drive it. Stare at it in the driveway. Look at it in the parking lots or on different terrain and backgrounds....do this for a week and then see what you think. If you are towing/hauling a lot then yes you will need some rake but again how much? You wont really know that until you change the front springs and see just where everything is at.
Also are you going with used springs or brand new springs? If you are going with new springs and you know your rear block to be OEM specs then you can easily figure out on paper what you need from what others have done.


If you are going with used springs and combination there of, all bets are off on how much lift and rake your ride will have.


Some things that factor into this are the condition of your rear springs. Do you have any helping leaves on there now? ( are you sure about that? )
Or do you have the factory block and leaves, etc. i.e. do you have the exact stock from the factory set up still in place in the rear?


As far as the rear sway bar, why are you concerned with that? I'm not saying you are wrong just curious why you feel you need to address it.


Might I ask are you feeling the need to address that because you find yourself sawing at the steering wheel? Trust me when I tell you that you will notice a change in that just from swapping the front springs alone.

 

Ford should put a rear sway bar on every EX built, the handling improvement is substantial. I like the new design Hellwig rear bar that is adjustable as far as end link attachment points (leverage) go and has adjustable length end links as well to keep the correct (parallel with the frame) bar geometry depending on suspension mods. Rear bar is an excellent addition for any EX that tows heavy also.

 

Tom, I don't disagree that your sway bar has its merits for you. I still would like to know why he thinks he needs a sway bar in the rear. I'm just assuming here but I would bet it has something to do with sawing at the wheel.
He needs to get those front springs swapped and I'm certain he will be smiling from ear to ear on that alone.


BTW Tom what tires are you running currently?

 

Going in and out of driveways and or speedbumps at an angle was good enough reason for me to add the Hellwigs. I did it front and rear the first week I owned my EX.

Takes the boatiness out.

Even with a set of upgraded springs o have to assume they would still help immensely.

I did my springs after so I can't know for sure.

 

X88, I was very lucky as my EX as bought at 65k miles didn't have any wander at all while running solo, no sawing on the wheel and tracked fine. Towing it was like going to Hell, only worse.
That being said the Hellig rear bar was the first addition I made to the suspension and it made a huge improvement in handling, took away so much body roll in corners while solo and elevated the towing situation to Purgatory, on a hot day. The spring swap made towing like Heaven.

Currently running Nitto Dura Grapplers in 305/70R18E (35.28" tall x 12.8" wide, 3750lbs @ 65 PSI max), quietest truck tire I have ever run and they feel great at speed with over 6500lbs on the rear axle, no squirminess at all.

 

I know the exact thing you speak of with going in and out of driveways and those certain bumps, especially at angles.
That is caused by the weak front springs and worn out shocks. A set of good shocks will rid nearly all of that. Shocks and a set of proper springs that should have been installed as OEM from the get go will take it all away.


Not saying the sway bar didn't help your cause because it obviously did to your liking.

 

Thank you for the replies, this is what I was looking for. I will do the front V code springs, then play with the rears till I get the look I want.


I Don't have anything heavy to tow now, but hope to get a travel trailer again in a year or two.


Don't hate me for this one, I am adding a 8' Western plow for my own driveway only.


I have the dreaded wonder and it pulls to the left when I brake. I have already replaced the rotors, calipers and brakes. When I do the springs I will check the front end for anything else it may need before getting a front end alignment.


Thanks again for the help, I will post before and after pic's when I do the swap.


Tim

 

Question to you guys talking about the rear sway bar. Mine came to me with a front sway bar (OEM I'm assuming), and after the V/Modded B swap I did, I didn't think it needed any more sway control (can take some pretty good curves at speed with not much body roll at all).

For those mentioning the rear sway, no-one mentioned if they already had a front sway bar.

EDIT: I'm assuming they all come with fronts, but I have seen a few photos on the forum here sans front sway bar, so you never know.