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Before you do ANYTHING ELSE, when it won't start after it quits, pull the center wire from the distributor, and put it near ground (engine block or head) and crank it over. Does it have spark?
That's step 1. If you have spark, and it won't start, it's fuel related.
If you do NOT have spark, you'll need to work backwards. Key on, is there voltage between ground and the (+) side of the coil? A test light, or a volt meter is necessary.
Once we have the answers to these questions, we can diagnose it more.
Before you do ANYTHING ELSE, when it won't start after it quits, pull the center wire from the distributor, and put it near ground (engine block or head) and crank it over. Does it have spark?
That's step 1. If you have spark, and it won't start, it's fuel related.
If you do NOT have spark, you'll need to work backwards. Key on, is there voltage between ground and the (+) side of the coil? A test light, or a volt meter is necessary.
Once we have the answers to these questions, we can diagnose it more.
And if it knocks you on your ***, replace the high tension. Lead.
Thanks. New spark plug cables and lead, new spark plugs, carburetor rebuilt... sometimes I can drive for miles running perfect and sometimes just a few blocks. Normally the truck start again right there sometimes takes a few tries... It is driving me crazy !!!!!
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mine just shuts down when i have secondaries open . take my foot out of it and it's fine.
driving me crazy can't hot rod around !!
ADD me to this problem list
mine just shuts down when i have secondaries open . take my foot out of it and it's fine.
driving me crazy can't hot rod around !!
any improvement ??? I just ordered a new Ignition Switch... running out of ideas...
ADD me to this problem list
mine just shuts down when i have secondaries open . take my foot out of it and it's fine.
driving me crazy can't hot rod around !!
Did you check the float level on the rear fuel bowl
Vacuum secondary or double pumper?
Hello guys. Thanks for all help and comments. So far so good... replace coil and better timing... 10 degrees... Let's use it all weekend long and see... THANKS !!!!!
my carb new 3310 (750 vac secondaries) float levels are good .
Saturday i started her up and was going to take a Lowes runs to get some river rock for wife's yard project . I moved the truck to the street then went back in house to get wife , I noticed a fresh puddle under back of truck , hmm ? i crawled under and it's Gas and dripping off my Electric fuel pump . So lowes trip can wait . i pulled truck in garage and grab a flash light , rubber fuel line from tank to pump cracked in multiple places. So i replaced the hose . hopefully this is the source of my problem .
You need to watch those trips to Lowes, they will dip into your play money.
Went by our local lumber yard today, needed a few 2 by's, a roll of insulation, some tin and a few pieces of trim to finish up the inside of my small shop.
Left nearly $800 laying on their counter.
There went my Fairlanes new oil pan, again.
Well at lease the shop will be nice inside, won't have any money to work on anything, but the shop will be look good.
Years ago I had a 73 F-100 with a 428CJ engine, I was having issues with the four barrel secondaries coming in to fast, this was causing a lean condition and the truck would stumble and die out.
The check ball acts as a restricter and the spring controls how fast the secondaries open, that was early on in my learning curve of how to adjust a Holley carb beyond normal adjustments and I'm not sure what fixed it, but I ended up changing out the secondary diaphragm pot for another one I had and the carb went to working properly.
From what you'r describing ether the secondaries are opening to fast or the secondary fuel circuit isn't delivering enough fuel.
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