dash wiring
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 280
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From: pine city washington
dash wiring
i have a 69 f-250 camper special and the wiring behind the dash is messed up is there any way to unplug the old harness and plug in a new used one if so where is the plug.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Orich
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 474
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From: Central Wisconsin
There are plugs to connect everything up. They are not on the firewall, but are just an extension of the main harness, and are near the corners up under the dash. The main harness is behind the dash and stretches from the very left to the very right corners. Mine then has Red, Yellow, and Black rubberized connectors to extend out the front lights, horn, all gauges, and rear lights.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
The wiring is totally different because your 1970 has a printed circuit board, 1967/69's do not.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
You'll have cut & splice on the earlier dash cluster.
But ID and label each wire what it's for before cut them off the 70 connector.
That's the way, I did mine when building it from scratch.
Go to the Fordification correct diagrams lay out of wiring.
Orich
But ID and label each wire what it's for before cut them off the 70 connector.
That's the way, I did mine when building it from scratch.
Go to the Fordification correct diagrams lay out of wiring.
Orich
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: San Antonio, TX
looks good.....appreciate the info
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,694
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From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
I recently purchased a 21 circuit, complete wiring harness, from EZ wiring. Even found lots of them on Evilbay. Nice feature, is that every wire is labeled, to where it goes, on the wire, every 5 inches. How cool is that? No guessing, no problems. I will photo/install it in my truck in June or July. I am using Marine grade butt splices, as they are filled with a waterproof jell, that seals the connection when crimped. I know that is a bit over the top, but leaks happen, and corrosion is part of a truck's life. Electrical failures often result in smoke, and when you let the smoke out, things stop working. Keep the smoke in.. Trace, identify, and label, as Rich says.. you will be ok.
Baja
Baja
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Russ one day, I'll do the same with 21 circuits but, I hate Crimping the splices as that is the weakest link of those any aftermarket wiring systems.
Also never knew about the Marine grade butt splices connectors. "Cool"
But, I have install a view submersible water well pump motors splicing the new pump wires and epoxy over it splice. They never a leaked as, I'm still here to talk about it..
Orich
Also never knew about the Marine grade butt splices connectors. "Cool"
But, I have install a view submersible water well pump motors splicing the new pump wires and epoxy over it splice. They never a leaked as, I'm still here to talk about it..
Orich
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
I cut the PVC insulation off of butt splices or terminal ends, make a mechanical crimp, backfill the splice/terminal with solder and then slide a piece of heat shrink over the connection.
The solder gives better conduction through the splice and keeps corrosion out of the wire ends.
The mechanical crimp is a secondary backup, in the event a wire gets hot enough to melt the solder, the end of the wire can't fall out of the splice, get against the chassis and start a fire.
Butt splice insulative covering split....
....and butt splice removed.
Heat shrink slid over wire.
Butt splice cripmed.
Splice back filled with solder.
Heat shrink over connection.
The solder gives better conduction through the splice and keeps corrosion out of the wire ends.
The mechanical crimp is a secondary backup, in the event a wire gets hot enough to melt the solder, the end of the wire can't fall out of the splice, get against the chassis and start a fire.
Butt splice insulative covering split....
....and butt splice removed.
Heat shrink slid over wire.
Butt splice cripmed.
Splice back filled with solder.
Heat shrink over connection.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 45
From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
Perfection amigo. Non insulated but splices are available, and cheaper too. Saves the insulation removal. Solder is the best way, especially, when you have the room to work. In tight spaces, I sometimes use the Marine grade, self sealing, splices, with a good crimper like the one you are using.
Baja
Baja
Rabbit-Hole Researcher
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 466
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From: Middle of Ohio
2X on the above.
Another option to cover the soldered connection is to use "Double-Wall Heatshrink Tubing".
It has one wall really, but it is lined with hot-melt glue. I would shrink it with a $20 heat gun on low. It creates a permanent, firm, but not rigid, and waterproof connection. This technique supports the entire length of wire, without flex at the end of the solder.
It comes in all sizes, and a few colors. Cost is modest. I've used it extensively in complete wiring harnesses. It is also great for firming up wire-to-plug connections, giving a strain-relief function.
Luck, Kevin
Another option to cover the soldered connection is to use "Double-Wall Heatshrink Tubing".
It has one wall really, but it is lined with hot-melt glue. I would shrink it with a $20 heat gun on low. It creates a permanent, firm, but not rigid, and waterproof connection. This technique supports the entire length of wire, without flex at the end of the solder.
It comes in all sizes, and a few colors. Cost is modest. I've used it extensively in complete wiring harnesses. It is also great for firming up wire-to-plug connections, giving a strain-relief function.
Luck, Kevin
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 14
From: Lind, WA- Eastern WA
You're right about the non-insulated butt splices there BAJA. Also the "Double-wall" heat shrink with the adhesive is the better marine grade type to use 1972-34ton. If you use a ratcheting type of crimper and always crimp twice on each end, you'll never have a problem. By code a soldered connection still has to have a connector, either a twist type (wire nut type in house wiring) or a clamp type, used also. I get adhesive line heat shrink from the marine supply places (here near Everett,WA).
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