When it comes to ignition what have you guys upgraded to? What is the best bang for your buck?

Coil
Spark Wires
Spark Plugs
Cap and Rotor
Distributor

Just looking for ideas
It says it in my signature but I have a 1978 F150 6.6L

 

IMHO, unless you're adding boost or something, there's not much reason to upgrade. The stock Duraspark system provides a strong enough spark already for a naturally-aspirated engine. There'll be basically no "bang" for any bucks spent unless you're doing it to enable supercharging or something like that.

Now, if you were to upgrade to a distributorless system that gave more control over spark timing, that could be worthwhile, but you'd also want to upgrade to EFI for that to make any sense.

 

My distributor is stock with newer OEM-type cap and rotor. MSD wires, Blaster coil and MSD 6A ignition module. The coil and module made a significant different, but my objective was to run lean mixtures to increase MPG.

 

All Stock stuff here with a 4 barrel 302. Points and condenser system has been around a long long time.

 

2x with bkaul.


The best bang for the buck is the bucks that are not spent. The OEM Duraspark system is dang reliable... just carry a spare ICM for good measure and that's it.

 

x2... for the most part.

I like the MSD 6A box instead of the Ford module, especially if you need to replace the Ford module. Otherwise, I use premium, stock type, parts.

 

Msd distributor with phaseable rotor! Msd means multi strike. Fires the cylinder more than once! Several company's been doing a long time! Multi strike mode is good to about 2500 to 3000 rpm some company's vary on the rpm! Phase able rotor is a good thine especially in the higher rpms! This tool allows you the ability to correct for chain stretch or other alignment issues! Need a spare cap for setting up rotor! This helps your spark jump from rotor to cap then to wires then spark plug. If rotor not lined up perfect it increases the spark jump less efficient! Phaseable rotor means you can adjust internally for perfect alignment!

 

You could recurve the distributor,cheap,easy to do, the most bang for your buck.
Chris

 

I'm currently running an MSD box, MSD Blaster 2 coil, Accel cap and rotor, parts store distributor, NKG standard heat range plugs .045 gap, and ford racing 9mm wires. Distributor has the vacuum advance blocked off and just running straight timing. On the work bench I do have an HEI distributor waiting to be put in should something in the current system act up. Runs great and you can really feel the engine come alive past 2,500 RPM.

 

You have a 1977 F250 4WD according to your signature, which came with the cap with male ends and the adapter it clips to. The rotor also changed in 1977 (see pic below).

The DuraSpark stator aka magnetic pickup coil (12A112 in pic) is the same for all 1974/79 F100/350/Bronco/Econoline/Passenger Cars V8's except 1979 LTD/Grand Marquis 351W with EEC (onboard computer).

DuraSpark ignition module: 1974 is 1974 only / 1975 is 1975 only / 1976/79: Three different modules. Modules identified by a colored plastic square near where the wires feed out.

1U2Z-12A199-AA (replaced D6AZ-12A199-A & D9VZ-12A100-A) .. Ignition Module-blue plastic square (Motorcraft DY-893) / Available from Ford & auto parts stores.

1976/79 F100/350, Econoline & Bronco V8's, misc V8 Passenger Cars except for some sold new in CA or in high altitudes. Also used into the 1990's on F100/350's, Bronco's and cars.
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D7AZ-12A199-A .. Ignition Module-red plastic square (Motorcraft DY-204) / Obsolete

Misc: 1977/79 Passenger Cars/F100/350's, Bronco's & Econolines sold new in CA
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D9AZ-12A199-C (replaced D8AZ-12A199-A) .. Ignition Module-Brown or Yellow plastic square (Motorcraft DY-337-A) / Obsolete

1978: F100 302 & Econoline 351W & misc. 1978/79 302/351W Passenger Cars .. all with high altitude carbs.

 

The Duraspark ignition system your truck came with was designed for that very reason. If it was functioning properly, you would not have noticed a "significant difference" at all.

How old was the coil and module you replaced?

 

As has been said, the best bang for the buck is probably stock.
Just be sure to (at least) carry a spare module,
and if you like plenty of coverage, a spare pick-up coil for the distributor.
Here's my variation for a 1976 F-250 7.5L.
Plugs: Motorcraft ARF 42-6 (or AC R43TS6) gapped at 0.050"
(Other brands should also work well.)
Plug wires: MSD 8.5mm super conductor
Distributor: stock except for adapter, "wide" cap, and appropriate rotor
Coil: GM external HEI
Module: homemade using a 5 pin GM HEI module
(if you don't want the timing advance/retard feature use a 4 pin)
Feed: a 30 amp. (min.) relay which can run "constant on" and 8 gauge wire with overload protection
Voltage regulator: solid state to help the longevity of the module
Advance curve: yet to be determined
If you don't mind using junkyard parts, much of this can be had at minimal cost.

 

Mine runs pretty well as originally equipped (400). Coil is original. If replaced it would be premium parts store OE replacement. Wires are Bosch spiral core (AZ). Plugs are basic Autolights from NAPA based on make/year/model/engine. Gapped .042" or so. Cap and rotor are better grade replacement from AZ. Distributor is original. I would use a parts store reman distributor if needed. The ignition box is original with a Motocraft replacement from Rock Auto behind the seat if needed.

Bottom line, the original system works quite well if parts are in good shape or replacement parts are of decent quality.

 

8 Gauge wiring seems a bit excessive for an ignition system?

I used 14 gauge for my setup and a 10 AMP fuse... And a Chrysler Minivan Wasted Spark coil (I went EFI so the options are wide open).

 

Initially I thought so also. It's probably a bit of overkill for my application.
But the GM HEI setup is sort of a power hog.
Most of those doing the conversion recommend either 12 or 10 gauge to get the coil to saturate properly.
I read that some of the GM high performance vehicles had used the 8 gauge to maximize the performance of the system.
So without verifying it I just went ahead and used it since I had to get something anyway.
But be forewarned that locating the needed terminals for the 8 gauge is not a straightforward procedure.
I found them on Amazon.