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trailer pulling with extended van

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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 04:20 PM
  #16  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
it was a windy day, that could have something to do with it, went to put more air in the tires and they are D rated. so that could be a major factor. its my othervan has the e rated tires.... not the trailer as it tows perfect behind our excursion empty or loaded heavy.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 06:27 PM
  #17  
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I've towed some heavy loads with an extended van many times. It's not a problem. In fact I'm currently building an 89 E350 extended Club Wagon to use for my tow vehicle to pull my 20 foot car trailers.

If you are so worried about a light front end just build yourself a heavy front bumper and hang some weights on it like they do at the tractor pulls.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 03:21 AM
  #18  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
Originally Posted by fordman75
I've towed some heavy loads with an extended van many times. It's not a problem. In fact I'm currently building an 89 E350 extended Club Wagon to use for my tow vehicle to pull my 20 foot car trailers.

If you are so worried about a light front end just build yourself a heavy front bumper and hang some weights on it like they do at the tractor pulls.
ya itll have a big bumper itll also have my 4wd chassis under it when im done
 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 11:53 AM
  #19  
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It looks like your van has the same problem my 89 has. A saggy rear. Might be time to upgrade your rear springs. I'm going to be swapping in a pair of the 10 leaf rear springs from a E350 cargo van. Not great for the ride quality but they won't sag! I had those springs in another 88 or 89 E350 cargo van. I had a 3,000 pound load of scrap metal in it and it only dropped an 1".

And when you are towing a trailer( if it has some size or weight to it ) you might want to run a weight distributing hitch set up with sway control.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 12:51 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Skip1970
went to put more air in the tires and they are D rated. so that could be a major factor
Yeah, no that's THE factor. D load rating is fine for your wife or daughter driving the Subaru. Get an E rated man's tire on there inflated properly and you'll be fine. If you really want to tow like a ****, Michelin XPS Rib 245/75R16.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 01:54 AM
  #21  
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From: gravel road ONTARIO


I have a 2003 clubwagon ext. it weighs 7000lbs empty(diesel) and my trailer weighs 3000lbs empty. I have 235/85/16 10ply radials on the rear and 215/85/16 radials on the front. my trailer has a gross of 14000lbs, 2 7000lb axles on 215/85/16 8bolt wheels. I have hauled a lot of weight on my trailer and in lots of different conditions. I find the extra length between the trailer ball and the rear axle beneficial for manuevrability in tight places. much easier to handle than my F350s dually pickup I had previous.


I cannot max out my trailer because I only have single wheels on my van , but I regularly have between 10000 and 12000 lbs behind the van .
no trailering issues at all! my van just went over 470,000 km in the last tank of fuel, so its definitely no where near new.


its one of the best trailer haulers I've owned. and I've had a few


don't put a trailer on unless you have 10 ply Erange
 
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 05:36 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Skip1970
ya itll have a big bumper itll also have my 4wd chassis under it when im done
How much work was is to pull the body off? I've been thinking about doing that when I get back to Alabama so I can refresh the frame and stiffen it up some, maybe even extend it a little since I'm going to do a one-off fiberglass camper body for it.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 02:07 PM
  #23  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
wasent hard at all only 8 or 10 body bolts.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 08:14 PM
  #24  
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From: Seligman, AZ
Originally Posted by Skip1970
wasent hard at all only 8 or 10 body bolts.
I was wondering more about the wiring interface and everything else lol
 
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 11:54 PM
  #25  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
naw you just gotta lift that sucker up 3+ feet to clear everything if you leave engine in.

i cheated and cut the front crossmember out of the front body, still had to get it 3 feet in air. used 55 gal barrels.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 11:55 PM
  #26  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
i have a new idea to use trees, park with 2 at rear wheel wells on sides and 2 front on each side under front doors, then use chains/cables and comealongs. may try it.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 11:32 PM
  #27  
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Having that extra length between rear axle and hitch-ball sure makes it easier to back a trailer, as long as the trailer is not too short.

When you get all the other stuff right, you could look at one of the load-leveling hitches such as Eaz-Lift.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 12:00 AM
  #28  
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From: gravel road ONTARIO
Originally Posted by seattle smitty
Having that extra length between rear axle and hitch-ball sure makes it easier to back a trailer, as long as the trailer is not too short.

When you get all the other stuff right, you could look at one of the load-leveling hitches such as Eaz-Lift.


I've been amazed at the tight spots I've fit my van/trailer in and out of. the longer distance between the rear axle and ball hitch pivot seems to move the trailer for you when you cut short corners, but I have messed up a few times backing it up a few times as my trailer is only a 18ft deck.


did 4 wheel brake job on my van Friday, new front rotors and replaced the wheel bearings at the same time. back axle shafts move 1/2-3/4" of in/out movement . looks like I will be replacing the rear end this year.
D'OH. if I had a full floater I would add some air bags
 
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 12:23 AM
  #29  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
Backing up is only 10 % of traiilering
 
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 12:30 AM
  #30  
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From: gravel road ONTARIO
Originally Posted by Skip1970
Backing up is only 10 % of traiilering
probably closer to 1 or 2% depending on what and where you are trailering.


to no backing up
 
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