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Okay guys so recently I got my truck running and actually putted up and down the road a little because I couldn't stand it any longer. Now however, Im in a bit of a predicament. I have wired most of my 21 circuit EZ wiring harness, but have hit a major problem when trying to wire it up to my signal stat 900 turn signal switch. At first, I wired it up just matching the wires based on signal stat's diagram and the matching EZ wire, but then when I turned the key on, none of it worked. I have researched the heck out of this topic and can't find a solution. I took a multi tester out to the shop with me tonight and found out that with the ignition switch in the "on" position, I have power to every fuse except the stop, hazard, and turn signals. Anyone got an idea as to why this is the case? Thanks in advance for your replies.
Are you sure you have the correct feed + on the signal stat which goes to the flasher
from the flasher to the acc. side on ign. switch OR wired direct to the fuse block. Cars
light trucks usually power comes from the ign switch. Big rigs are powered to fuse
block, so directionals can be flashing while engine is off all mine are that way.
I deal with this stuff all the time, our trucks/loaders use the 900 signal stats and
their instructions are questionable with their color codes. Next is on the rear, are
you using the 2 lite or 4 light system-the 2 lite requires a wire from the stop lite run
up to the signal switch. The 4 light don't need that. Other than that I suggest a
bench test all ya need is a small batt charger and test light / power the turn sw. up
and test light all wire functions and mark those. Wish I could ex-plane better but
you also have to determine the 2 front left & right and rear left and right. The rear
left & right is important=thats where the stop lite signal wire comes in.
Recap; grab a power wire or jumper to a flasher now find the power feed wire
from the signal sw. Keep in mind ALL wires will show a test light glow. true but not.
the true is you have to find the true +power wire. going to take some time but
I just went through this on a loader the instructions were filed in the trash.. Trust me
I worked on the Appollo project in Raytheon .. I was a cable maker July 1969 some pieces we built with my finger prints & landed on the moon...We built right here all the
consauls, monitors, thousand butttons, with the classic RED button "FIRE" and this was
around as early as 1964: Note we were not allowed to talk about this. sorry for
ramblin but to me electric wires are like the flow of water pipes.....you need test lite
sam
Are you sure you have the correct feed + on the signal stat which goes to the flasher
from the flasher to the acc. side on ign. switch OR wired direct to the fuse block. Cars
light trucks usually power comes from the ign switch. Big rigs are powered to fuse
block, so directionals can be flashing while engine is off all mine are that way.
I deal with this stuff all the time, our trucks/loaders use the 900 signal stats and
their instructions are questionable with their color codes. Next is on the rear, are
you using the 2 lite or 4 light system-the 2 lite requires a wire from the stop lite run
up to the signal switch. The 4 light don't need that. Other than that I suggest a
bench test all ya need is a small batt charger and test light / power the turn sw. up
and test light all wire functions and mark those. Wish I could ex-plane better but
you also have to determine the 2 front left & right and rear left and right. The rear
left & right is important=thats where the stop lite signal wire comes in.
Recap; grab a power wire or jumper to a flasher now find the power feed wire
from the signal sw. Keep in mind ALL wires will show a test light glow. true but not.
the true is you have to find the true +power wire. going to take some time but
I just went through this on a loader the instructions were filed in the trash.. Trust me
I worked on the Appollo project in Raytheon .. I was a cable maker July 1969 some pieces we built with my finger prints & landed on the moon...We built right here all the
consauls, monitors, thousand butttons, with the classic RED button "FIRE" and this was
around as early as 1964: Note we were not allowed to talk about this. sorry for
ramblin but to me electric wires are like the flow of water pipes.....you need test lite
sam
Sam,
Very interesting! I hope you don't get into trouble for releasing classified information! This could jeopardize our space program!
And here's a third for that. The turn signal/flashers are hot all the time..
Now is that hot all the time like bypassing even the ignition switch? Or is it hot all the time when the switch is on? I've got other troubles now because my ignition switch (which is 4 days old) is fried.
They have to be hot all the time. Otherwise, you'd have to have your key in the ignition to have the signals or emergency flasher working.
So, you broke down and are parked on the side of the road. You have to walk to the nearest house to get help (cell phones aren't even a dream yet). You don't want to leave your keys in the truck...
Thanks guys. Just needed to do a bit of learning. Found out that I bought too cheap of an ignition switch so I bought one from a local company that has a lifetime warranty. They are custom built for each application so it should fit like a glove. It might be overkill but that's better than being stuck on the side of the road.
Flashers have to be hot all the time. Turn signals may not be if you use a two-flasher circuit. Also, many of the actual flasher units out there are cheap chinese junk and are failed before they even start...I've had this issue with brand new circuits/flashers.
Flashers have to be hot all the time. Turn signals may not be if you use a two-flasher circuit. Also, many of the actual flasher units out there are cheap chinese junk and are failed before they even start...I've had this issue with brand new circuits/flashers.
Nope, Flasher units aren't the problem. They are NOS units from my local electric motor shop. Same story with my signal stat turn signal switch.