Well I finally got around to tackling the disc conversion on my '68 f 250.
She's no longer a f 250 though. I got a half ton 9" rear end under her now as well.

I used all parts from '76 for my upgrade, so now she's a complete half ton. I know that sounds strange changing it to a half ton. but I want to do other mods and it will be easier as a half ton.

The thing is this. For those of you about too or thinking about taking on this project? DO IT!!!
I am so impressed with the results compared to how the truck was set up originally.

Kudos to the folks involved in putting together that tech article here on this site. With out it I would have never persued this and probably would have been lost as well.

I did it all on this one, Replaced everthing from brake pedal to caliper. All the lines pivot points etc. as well.

When I took her off the stands and drove away tonight I was stunned at how well everything worked and had gone together. I did everything my self as well. One person can do it all provided you have the time. I took five days, that way I got every thing done right and with out a hitch.

I deviated in only two places from the tech article. I used a stock bracket on top of power steering unit for the proportioning valve. I also made new extention brackets for the rubber brake lines at the stock locations to move them closer to the wheel since they weren't long enough (Very easy to make from some flat scrap steel).

Man these brakes work good!!!

Now it's time for a REAL cold Newcastle.

Hawkeye

 

Someday I hope to do this to my '71 F100 SB too. About how much did it all cost you? You got exactly what the article told you less what you told us, cool beans. Can't wait. Hope all contiues to go green. Congrats, Hawk.

 

Well The "Full Monty" cost me about 746.00.
I spent the better part of this last year saving, shopping and aquireing the parts for this. Since I was going to have it all
apart I added a couple things not in the tech article. Axle pivot bushings and switching out my old brake and clutch pedals for the regular wide power brake pedal. I had changed to a C6 tranny about 8 years ago and have always wanted to convert that pedal anyway. Also since it was all apart I figured once I'm in
there do it all. so I removed the I beams and replaced the pivot bushings too. That was REAL work pounding the bushings into the beams, I got blisters from that.

But it was worth it since all my pivot points are now totaly redone.
One thing of note here about what I was doing while searching for everything. I wanted all new parts first off, only a few things are either from the bone yard or there is only reconditioned parts available from the parts store, second I wanted all USA manufactured parts. The latter is getting to be a
challange to obtain. Too many of our parts stores carry parts that are made in Mexico or from over seas and the quality isn't as good in the steel or the craftsmanship in my opinion.
So some of my parts are a few dollars more but not too much more. I feel I have installed as close too or better quality than Ford did, not the cheap stuff Auto zone and others sell.

Now here's how it all breaks down.

Brake pedal assy. '76 (Bone yard) 15.00

Vacumm Booster '76 (reconditioned) (NAPA) 89.00

Master cylinder '76 (New) (NAPA) 45.00

Several steel brake lines 3.00 each

Proportioning valve '76 (Bone Yard) 50.00

Calipers '76 (New) (NAPA) 39.00 each w/pads

Spindles '76 (Bone yard) 80.00 pair

Rotors '76 (New) (NAPA) 110.00 pair

King Pin Set (New) '68 (NAPA) 55.00 pair w/brass bushings

Machine Shop (Press the bushings into spindles and hone to fit the new King Pins) 39.00

Axle Pivot Bushings (Rubber) '68 (NAPA) 25.00 pair

Complete steering linkage '76 (New all four parts) (NAPA) 110.00 set

Rubber Brake lines (NAPA) 19.00 each

There you have it.

Hawkeye

 

I helped a buddy do this to his 71 F-100 a few years back. We picked up a 76 F-150 with low mileage that some kid had inherited from his grampa and banged up the body on. We paid $250 for the truck and actually sold off $400 worth of parts after we got everything off it. All the parts were in good shape and the only thing new was the pads. The only modification was to reflare a brake line at the propotioning valve for a bigger flare nut. It was a swap that we easily did in an afternoon including removing the donor parts. And he made money doing it.

 

Wow! How handy getting a Donor with all needed parts for 250.00.

Then to make money while doing the project?
Way to go!!!

Hawkeye

 

Hey Hawkeye,
More excitement on the homefront. I just got back from "The Graveyard" and rounded me up a Vacuum Booster, Master Cylinder, Proportioning Valve and several steel brake lines and rubber vacuum hoses from a '71 F-100 that had not been sitting too long.....parts looks to be in pretty good condition. Can you give me any tips on getting my '67 F-100 converted to power brakes? Is there anything in particular I should look out for? I am hoping for a simple disconnect the old system and plug and play the new system.

Mayby Mil1ion could give me a tip or two if he happens to read this post......all help would be appreciated.

Thanks guys.

 

Well it sounds to me like you have the parts you need.
The booster and Master will bolt right up. I hope you grabbed the bracket for the booster from the donor. You will have to have that as well. As for the metal brake lines? It's up to you, but I like running new ones just for my own peace of mind. But, bending and routing is a chore. Now if you are just doing power drums then your existing proportioning valve will work. But, if you're doing a disc conversion then you will need the proportioning valve for disc brakes. There are two types.
Hope this gives you some info to get started.

Hawkeye

 

Thanks Hawkeye, that's just the straight talk I was needing. Not sure what you meant my the "bracket for the booster" but I will give the guy at "The Graveyard" a call to see if he gave me that in the package. Hoping to jump on that little project this weekend to see if I can't soften that brake pedal up. I am only doing power drums but I think I will take your advice and run all new brake lines.
Thanks again

 

The bracket I'm speaking of bolts between the booster and the firewall. It may be attached to your booster since it came from the bone yard. On a non power setup the master cylinder is right on the firewall. The power set up uses the same existing bolt holes and two additional ones that are already there in the firewall as well. The bracket bolts there, and the booster to it.
You will see what I mean when you study it and go to do the project. I need to get a pic of my finished set up on my gallery. I'll try and add that tomorrow.

Hawkeye