After seeing some of the pain that some of the 2011 guys are experiencing with valve related failures - I'm not so sure I would want to be an early adopter of the 2017 truck. Not that there would be any changes made to the engine, but all new chassis, body etc.. Well, it's just a lot of money (to me) to gamble.. If I was not currently in my 2015 and was on the fence of buying a 2016 or wait for the 2017, I think I would probably just pull the trigger on the 2016 given the proven track record of the series now...

 

Had something like that with the remote start on my 09. Not a factory option but could be on the order. At the time, they actually had an upfitter right near KTP that did the installs so it wasn't factory and yet it wasn't dealer installed either. Strange setup.

 

Sure would be nice if they offered Air-Lift rear suspension on the 2016 F350s...

 

I'm hoping they are leaving that for one of the 17 design changes... If Ram can do it, Ford's got to do it too... and better...

 

One thing I have noticed is that a loaded up Lariat is over 80 thousands dollars in Canada.
Even the XLT I'm shopping lists at 67,000.
Man I would like to buy at U.S prices. Even with the exchange.

 

Greetings:

I just placed an order for a '16 F350 DRW Diesel Lariat with lariat ultimate package to tow my new 5th wheel trailer. I am new to trucks, new to diesels and new to this site.

Any suggestions on the break in of the engine prior to hooking up the trailer would be appreciated as well as any do's and don'ts with these Powerstrokes.

I cannot wait to get my new truck!!

 

Congrats and welcome aboard! Run the truck 500 miles before towing then go as heavy and as long as you want. It'll take it...

 

AK - welcome to FTE!!!

Congrats on your order and don't forget to check out these forums to swap tales with the rest of us towing campers and other rigs:
Towing Forum - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

I just drove mine normally for the first five hundred miles and then hooked up to my 17+k Fifth wheel and pulled it another 500 miles home...

This is one PULLIN' *****!!!!

 

Most questions will be in the new vehicle handbook. Either in the regular one or the diesel supplement book. Please read as it is very important. Follow directions in the book and you'll do just fine. One thing not in the book. Heated mirrors when you have the rear heated window, it is the same switch. Found this out by asking salesman who was very knowledgeable.
Enjoy the power! Fuel mileage expect 15-16 ave road not towing.

 

Good advice. I planned to do an 800 mile roadtrip for two days, then I hook up and head back to Alaska from Texas With the 18,000 pound 5th wheel, wife and kids......I cannot wait!

 

Per the manual...be sure to vary speed during first 500 miles. In other words don't be on freeway during this period.

 

I don't believe that being on the freeway will have a lot of bearing on the initial break-in as long as you don't have the cruise control locked in while traveling across the plains... Varying the engine loading a little with periodic acceleration will help get the piston rings bedded - but the real break-in period for those rings will be when you start making that truck work... With the advent of Roller Camshafts - the piston rings are the only components of engines that "break-in" on these engines anymore... Everything else is already seated and just starting the long (hopefully) process of wearing out..

-- edit
Yep, I know what it said in the manual... But Ford has been using that same line in their owner's manuals for like 50 years...
I think they just want people to pay extra attention during this period and also with the older flat tappet engines, it was absolutely necessary to have the engine NOT idle much at first as well as having that speed (engine RPM) vary...

 

I don't buy the old break in theory. I go with this one...

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

While he does not mention the fact that all manufacturers are using low-tension rings these days - he is spot on regarding cylinder sealing. However, ring break-in does continue well into the initial hours of an engine. 100 hours is the number used most by the industry given the designed load factor of the engine and I tend to agree.

The one thing that I do with all the engines I build is to get the oil changed right after ring seating on the dyno. This gets all the crap and chuff from the cyinders as well as the residual assembly lube not caught by the filter OUT of the engine.
Our engines are all initially run-in on a dyno from what I have read and presumably they have taken time to apply proper initial loading in order to at least get the bedding process started.

So there is some element of truth in the old addage - Drive it ike you stole it!

 

I've spent many hours over the past few months on the freeway. I can report that I am the last person in America setting their cruise control and forgetting it. Most people today drive like they are on a roller coaster or racing with Juan Pablo Montoya on the last lap of the Indy 500. We also have plenty of dopes that never leave the left lane even though they are not the fastest vehicle on the road.