Left the truck sitting for a couple of months while working out of town. I bought this truck used with only 1 key. We rebuilt the engine and had noise issues so we don't want to drive it much until this is resolved. I went out to start the truck to move it and it would not start. It had cranked right up the week before. Now it just spins over and the theft light blinks rapidly. I've check all the door locks. When I called a Ford dealership all the service guy would tell me is that it's going to cost me $125 to have a new key made and I have to have the title on the truck to get it done. AND, I have to have the truck towed to a dealership to fix the problem of it not starting... What advice or tricks do you guys know that might get this truck going again? The battery drained down so I took it out and charged it... only thing I can possibly think of is a low battery or maybe somebody tried to steal it while I was out of town and messed up something.

 

So it cranks forever but no start while theft light flashes fast?

You need to get it to the dealership and have them flash the computer for $100-$125...I've done it 2 times and they never asked to see the title.

Some people claim that highly skilled mobile locksmiths can do it but I couldn't find anyone.

 

Great news! Removed battery for a few days, cleaned cable ends and terminals, cranked right up, no problem.

 

Even a blind squirrel sometimes finds an acorn.

 

Just call me a blind squirrel that keeps losing his nuts. The good news didn't last long. Next morning I went to start the truck and the theft light was blinking again so it would not start. I've got the battery disconnected now. After replacing a loose battery cable terminal it still would not start though it has consistently cranked over easily and runs fine when running except for the problem with engine light being on, overdrive "off" light flashing and seems not to be shifting correctly. Either it is shifting so smooth that I can't tell when it shifts from one gear to another or it's staying in one gear. It just doesn't not seem to be going into a high gear.... maybe not overdrive or something. Wish I had a truck like it to compare to.

 

When driving the truck Sunday I noticed the shift indicator was not correct and that it never would go into low range and seemed to have a lot of slack/play in the shifter. I scratched my head a bit today because the theft light was blinking and the truck would not start. Putting 2 and 2 together after I changed out the battery cable terminal I crawled under the truck to wiggle wires and look for any signs of damaged wires or loose connections. I pushed and pulled on the shift cable and could tell that it moved a bit. I noticed that the clasp/lock was not fully engaged which allowed some movement so I snapped it down then checked the indicator position. I had to unsnap it then adjust the linkage so the letters and pointer lined up properly. Then like WOW the theft light went off and the truck cranked right up... but after a few rounds of cranking and stopping the engine the theft light appeared again. It is now intermittently working correctly.... any ideas? My suspicion is that there may be a wire issue inside the steering column or somewhere around the switch or behind the steering wheel...

 

I pulled the cover off around the steering column and switch, removed the switch. I founda couple of little nicks in the shrink wrap of the cruise countrol "off" wire but didn't see any noticeable exposed wire. I painted with liquid tape. While I had the switch out I cleaned the contact area of the switch housing which appeared to have some oxidation on it. So far the truck is starting every time and theft light is not staying on but it still has the issues of engine light and cruise control "off" light blinking once the engine has started and running. The cruise control off button works correctly and the switch turns the off light on and off before the motor is started. Hopefully I'll get a code reader and figure out what the issues are. I think my next procedure will be to test the oxygen sensors to see if I can diagnose whether or not one or more is bad.

 

I'd be checking for an intermittent connection at or in the PATS transceiver ring.

 

Randy, I have been following your thread and see your last reply shows total confusion.
I didn't want to jump jump over Project because he is a expert on these systems, but you need to know PATS is not casing a CEL after the motor starts.
Yes the PATS maybe intermittent so you must prove that fact by doing other types of diagnostics yet to be mentioned.
Leave the Ox sensors alone until a code indicates they need to be addressed.
You apparently have more than one issue at the same time causing confusion, that needs to be recognized and addressed separately.
The shift indicator out of position can be the bracket mount on the bottom of the steering column, the indicator positioner is broken behind the dash or some linkage issue.
If the TRS is not setting in park or neutral the motor will not start.
Take a step back, think about all this then come from a different perspective.
Good luck.

 

Thanks to all you guys who are hanging in there with me. I know little about Fords to start with and all the new electronics is beyond my experience. I live a very long way out in the boonies so it's not so convenient to just run up the road to pick up a code reader. Last night I did "rent" one from Autozone and pulled codes PO750, PO755, and PO743 which all related to transmission shift solenoids and torque converter clutch circuit. To me this pretty much means the harness connector probably is not making contact or has a grounded wire. Things I noticed since last night: when key is recognized and I have it in "on" position the switch correctly turns the cruise control "off" and "on". My eyesight in the dark isn't so well but I could not see the mileage with lights on. The odometer does not illuminate. I didn't have a flash light with me so couldn't tell if I'm getting ------- or if there were digits there. Reading other forums and info I've found out that the PATS works with the instrument cluster and the PATS transceiver ring. So, I'm leaning more toward there being an issue that involves the instrument cluster. However, there was never, to my knowledge, an issue with PATS prior to removing the engine. This leads me to think it may be in the transmission wiring harness unless this is somehow intermingled with the instrument cluster. I have a great deal of confidence that the transceiver ring is okay and the key (the only key) is functioning properly. I have the linkage adjusted correctly and the indicator is lining up properly. There is no noticible problem shifting while driving once I finally do get it to start. I do believe there are two issues, possibly bad connection of transmission harness and I'm now leaning toward a possible instrument cluster issue. I have yet to find a damaged, burned, or melted wire but this does not mean there isn't one and I have not quit looking. On another note, the code reader mentions a transmission control module being located on the left front of transmission. I have yet to find that and my online research doesn't show a TCM so I'm thinking all the transmission intelligence is in the PCM... enlighten me... there were no O2 sensor codes, they appear to be fine.

 

Lets review; the codes are indeed for the TC, shift solenoids A and B.
There is no separate control module, it's all done from the PCM through the harness down the passenger side.
The Ox sensors and DTR leads and the EVAP system are all in the same harness.
As you describe the dash issue, it may be the ignition switch has some intermittent contact issue.
Next time you see a PATS failure, turn the key to on and let it set a minute or two so it will do self diagnostics.
If a failure is detected, a two digit code will flash out on the Theft light. If yes come back with what you count out so we can tell you what the failure is.
Welcome to Computer control. It only gets more complex as the model years go by.
The complexity of the control systems has taken the ability to service it away from all owners except the few who take pleasure in learning.
Good luck.

 

Thanks Bluegrass. The cruise control "off" was flashing when I bought the truck and the check engine light was on. I thought it is significant that the cc "off" does not flash until the engine is started/running.

 

The PCM does the monitoring of the electrical functions in the transmission because there is no other way provided.
That being the case, the PCM has the codes in program to be set for any electrical failure.
The difference is the shifter light is the indicator rather than just the CEL.
The CEL is Check Engine Light, only. If it is lighted along with the shifter lamp there are two or more issues different places.
You begin to see the design strategy for interfacing with the outside world.
The code numbering sequence is even sectionalized.
If you look at a code list you see this. There are even P, B and U code groups.
Codes P07xx are transmission related as well as some codes in the P17xx range, codes in the P04xx are EGR related etc.
Good luck.

 

Thanks. I'm a bit rusty on computer logic but learning the design strategy is a major breakthrough when learning to troubleshoot systems. I went through a similar challenge troubleshooting a Seadoo last summer. Now that you've pointed out the CEL relationship I suspect possibly 3 issues.... two pre-existing and one that we probably caused when re-installing the engine. My son's 2002 E-250 van was a pain and sat around for 3 years not running worth a toot until someone in these forums said he had similar problems until he replaced the COP's... $50 later for a new set of Chinese cop's and it runs like new. It is always something simple but a major nightmare finding the booger.

 

Agreed.........