When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just got back from the Fontana NASCAR race and while pulling our 5th wheel there, my Dashboss alarm for vgt's went off when getting down to 15%.
The wrench on my dash came on steady and I had a loss of turbo to approx 15 psi max.
After shutting down, my OBD ll indicated no codes and upon restart, the wrench was gone and the turbo spooled back up just fine. It did it again on the way home when climbing a slight grade and again cleared, once shutting off the ignition.
I normally see between 40-55% vgt's while traveling and I cannot get this issue to come on when not pulling the trailer.
I recently cleaned my EBP and inspected my MAP line for cracks, going down to the valve cover. I also had the turbo unison ring cleaned about a year ago without issue since, getting a consistent 26 psi boost when accelerating.
Any ideas what would cause this only under pulling conditions?
Is your EGR valve intact, and is it clean and working? When I had trouble with the EGR valve, at first, only noticed issues like chugging and low boost when towing, eventually it got worse. Try unplugging EGR to see if the problem persists, rule it out. But when towing you have to watch temps because on the earlier models, unplugged EGR affects fan operation.
You may also try cleaning all sensors, EGR valve and then run a re-learn. It will do EGR and VGT and tranny relearn running the relearn process, I would suggest cleaning IAT1, IAT2, MAF, MAP, EBP before running relearn for best results. You may need a new EGR valve in the rule out above, and again, that would be cause for a relearn but again, cleaning all sensors would be smart.
Thanks Mike. I will run an egr test with my Dashboss tomorrow and compare to earlier logs first.
Then unplug as you suggest, and finally pull it out and inspect.
Let you know what I find.
Does the egr valve work differently with a load vs empty? I understand how it works, just not sure what key components activate it when running?
Mine was sticking open, as a result lower boost for a given VGT %, and black smoke and chugging, low power. I think once warmed up and pulling you would likely see less EGR valve opening, but, that would depend on if the valve is closing and opening properly. Without a load, it would seemingly middle through at first, until eventually, it was stuck open and problems got worse. I think others could chime in desired versus %open should match up. Also, it should show closed,p then shut off truck, then unplug to be sure it is unplugged fully closed.
Well, I'm finally getting back to this as the flu bug got me. Still not feeling too well but ran these tests and can see an issue with the egr position.
Anyone else see this before? Not sure if cleaning will fix the issue as it looks more like an electrical sensing issue when you see the numbers in the red box below.
Interesting that the command and desired numbers are just about normal, while sitting at about 2,000 rpm's parked.
Note the explanation and expected numbers, where the egr position should be in the second photo.
I still have to get under the hood as noted above but moving a bit slow right now.
I pulled my egr valve and it looks good, very little residue on it and it operates open and closed very freely by hand. Here's a picture I took y/day before cleaning.
I put it back in and am still getting the extreme numbers for egr position on my Dashboss.
Is there a good way to test these valves with a vom?
Thanks.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
