Ok I have seen this issue on this website a few times and my issue is the same, but I have replaced the following.
Ball joints
Shocks
Brake pads
Calipers
Brake lines
Tie rods
Sway bar links
Steering gear box (9 months ago)

Still pulls left when braking and also veers left slightly just going down the highway at 65
I have also put new tires on and a front end alignment
All this done within the last 1.5 months

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

 

Could be something as simple as a left side tire with low pressure. Seriously, check that first.

 

my 2015 is doing the same thing, veers to left only when braking. I was thinking the left caliper may be getting a little more braking power. I notice it more when going down hill

 

I have seen this in larger trucks , Have you inspected your rear suspension ?
Sometimes a " pull " is actually caused from the rear ..... I would call that a push though . Seen it a few times . Just a thought !

 

Never heard of it in a Ford, but check the rear end alignment to see if the axle is centered and square with the frame. I had two different GM trucks that the rear spring saddle had slop in it and the springs were loose letting the axle slip forward or back causing the truck to "track". Found this out when a friend was following me and said my truck looked like a crab going down the road. The alignment shop fixed it for a few bucks. Steering and braking and handling all improved.

 

I've had a bad tire cause this. It's called "radial pull". The tire worked fine on the back axle, but when on the front axle it caused a pull while braking towards the bad tire.

 

I've also heard this can be caused by brakes applying pressure unevenly. I had my back right caliper lock up on me last year but I never noticed if it was pulling or pushing.

 

Thanks all for the suggestions and will look at them this weekend, on top of the pulling left issue I also have a "Clunk" on the drivers side when I turn right and go over a small bump so I am thinking that this may also contribute to the pulling left issue. I did replace the rear shocks and have bags on top of the standard lead springs. One other thing I was considering is body to frame mounts may be worn which would cause the "Clunk" I am getting a GoPro today and mounting under the truck to see and will post the video for all. Thanks again and will update the progress.

 

You can always take your truck to the dealer for diagnosis, gustrider4; I know they'd be happy to take a look. How many miles are on it currently?

Crystal

 

Subscribing. 2011, 250, 6.2 SCSB 40K on the clock. Mine does this as well. Everything checks ok. Just put new tires and pads on. Did same thing with old pads n tires. U and ball joints look fine. Goes down the road straight. Might try to replace the caliper on drivers side and or the line next.

 

When my trucks pulls hard to one side when braking it has been 1 of 2 things.
1. Stuck caliper pins. I re-lube mine every 6months to prevent it but there always seems to be a dry one somewhere. Do a search and you will see this is a common problem.
2. faulty caliper. I had a piston that was seized and didn't function properly.


As I thought about it more, there have been stories of faulty brake lines as well. the get worn and soft and compress when braking which doesn't allow the caliper to get any brake fluid to it.

 

Ya Ive checked the piston movement it retracts OK...Which generally means the caliper and the soft line is ok. But I have seen exceptions to this in my 40 years of holding on to the greasy end of a wrench...lol
Soft lines will collapse internally due to age and delamination of the internal layers caused BY age and or someone NOT in the know letting the caliper dangle off the hose when preforming a brake service. The collapse will act as a one way check-valve not allowing the applied pressure to release back to the master cylinder. The pedal pressure will generally overcome this and allow pressure to pass through the collapse but not back.... so the brake pressure will apply but not release. This obviously keeps the hydraulic pressure applied to the caliper piston/pad.

This condition will make the vehicle pull when the brakes are not applied or pull shortly after an application then act normal until the brakes are applied again. More scenarios but this is the general one. It can release slow so you wont notice it for a while or it can completely bind up the caliper. Then you'll smell and feel it.

One way to test for a collapse line or frozen piston is to apply the brake with the vehicle tire off the ground. Try to turn the wheel in question immediately. If it turns your OK. If it binds up for a few minutes or longer its the caliper or hose.

The opposite can happen too. Where the caliper is frozen in the retract position and wont expand out to meet the pad. In which case the car will pull towards the working side giving a false diagnosis. To check it raise same wheel off the ground and apply the brake. In this case the tire spins with the brakes applied.

 

If it's a 2WD model, is there s 'strut rod' from the lower control arm up to the frame (as many cars in the 1970s had)? If the bushings are shot on this, it can allow the LCA to move back under braking and cause pull issues.

 

4,500 miles

 

Thanks for responding, gustrider4. Have you made an appointment at your dealership yet? Keep us in the loop.

Crystal