e 250
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Logistics Pro
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From: placer county usa?
e 250
got an 89 e250 302efi with a AOD runs ok for 100k miles(or 200k?)
the engine and trany are going into my 49 f1 which has a 87 jag front end with a s10 rear end.
Need info/education on what is best and most worth while on the stock engine and trany to transfer over to the F1
would like to stay stock as much as possible but not afraid to change a little.
Leads on threads, posts appreciated
wont be starting for a week or so and will be posting some pic
thanks
the engine and trany are going into my 49 f1 which has a 87 jag front end with a s10 rear end.
Need info/education on what is best and most worth while on the stock engine and trany to transfer over to the F1
would like to stay stock as much as possible but not afraid to change a little.
Leads on threads, posts appreciated
wont be starting for a week or so and will be posting some pic
thanks
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
I'm gonna guess you don't have any emissions regs to worry about with this swap and if so you can remove all of that air injection plumbing between the air pump, engine, and cat converter, that will go a long way to cleaning up the mess on and around this engine.
And I suppose I should ask if you plan to keep the EFI or swap to a carb? The EFI system on this truck is actually pretty much self contained so transplanting it wouldn't be a hugh task, you will also need the fuel tank and pump however or another combo that can deliver the volume and pressure(45psi) this engine requires.
And I suppose I should ask if you plan to keep the EFI or swap to a carb? The EFI system on this truck is actually pretty much self contained so transplanting it wouldn't be a hugh task, you will also need the fuel tank and pump however or another combo that can deliver the volume and pressure(45psi) this engine requires.
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Logistics Pro
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From: placer county usa?
Thanks for your time
Yes would like to use as much ford engineered parts and lose the smog within reason
I do plan to use the efi I have a chevy fi fuel tank(mid 90's) at the rear of the truck but I have not bought the pump/sender because I don't know if the chevy pump is compatible with ford efi
Yes would like to use as much ford engineered parts and lose the smog within reason
I do plan to use the efi I have a chevy fi fuel tank(mid 90's) at the rear of the truck but I have not bought the pump/sender because I don't know if the chevy pump is compatible with ford efi
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
If the pump can generate enough pressure and has a return line it should work as long as you can connect the ford fuel lines to it. Failing that the van has a tank you can use or if that doesn't fit then maybe a tank from a '90's F150 would work, those trucks had dual tanks so you have the option of a a long narrow underbody tank or a rear between the frame rails tank.
On the back of the motor in the above pic I can see the air injection crossover tube attached to the back of the heads, If you pull that off you can plug the resulting holes with 5/8 x 1" coarse bolts with copper washers to seal. All plumbing attached to that can be removed, there will then be 2 vacuum lines hanging that go back to the solenoids near the ignition coil. Those solenoids must remain and be kept connected to the electrical system but the vacuum lines can be completely removed. The vacuum lines are all enclosed in a harness that wraps around the back of the motor, this can be lifted off in 1 piece after all devices are disconnected and you can then strip out everything that isn't needed. What is needed is direct vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator, vacuum to the EGR solenoid and then from there to the EGR valve, and a line to and from the vacuum resovoir.
On the back of the motor in the above pic I can see the air injection crossover tube attached to the back of the heads, If you pull that off you can plug the resulting holes with 5/8 x 1" coarse bolts with copper washers to seal. All plumbing attached to that can be removed, there will then be 2 vacuum lines hanging that go back to the solenoids near the ignition coil. Those solenoids must remain and be kept connected to the electrical system but the vacuum lines can be completely removed. The vacuum lines are all enclosed in a harness that wraps around the back of the motor, this can be lifted off in 1 piece after all devices are disconnected and you can then strip out everything that isn't needed. What is needed is direct vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator, vacuum to the EGR solenoid and then from there to the EGR valve, and a line to and from the vacuum resovoir.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: placer county usa?
Conan the vacuum reservoir is that the soup can on the right side behind the battery in the engine bay
Also found the map should I take it off the fire wall and remove with the engine?
The EEC is it on the rt side under the heater?
Also found the map should I take it off the fire wall and remove with the engine?
The EEC is it on the rt side under the heater?
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FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Yes you need the MAP sensor so grab that and yes the vacuum resovoir is a soup/juice can looking thing, if it's rusted out on the bottom(common) get a plastic resovoir from a later vehicle in the scrapyard.. any vehicle doesn't matter. And yes that is the crossover tube in the middle pic, and your finger is pointing at the fuel pressure regulator in the last pic.
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Logistics Pro
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From: placer county usa?
Sounds good taking the upper manifold off for a little more lift btw ford only gave one lift point that's on the rt side there is a long stud at front of exmanifold I thing that it holds the dip stick or oil filler maybe use that
Probly take the engine Perch off along with the mounts
This weekend hope to get his thing out
Probly take the engine Perch off along with the mounts
This weekend hope to get his thing out
