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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

ford inline 6 charging issue

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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 06:44 PM
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ford inline 6 charging issue

i have a 1982 straight 6 300. i have put a 2 alternators 2 batterys and a voltage regulator to no avail. the truck will run fine start right up everytime. the minute you turn the headlights on the headlights want drop but the voltage meter will. if i turn the blower on too it will really drop. if i leave them on with the truck running for an hour and cut it off and try to turn the truck back on the battery will be dead. the headlights are very dim when the truck is running but dont brighten when i give it gas. i am at a lose as to what is causing these. please help!!!!
 
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 06:47 PM
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You will need a meter to do any testing. Do you have one?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 06:50 PM
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no i dont but i have a buddy who does
 
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 08:32 PM
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Get it, and with the engine running, read the voltage on the battery. It should be anywhere from 13.5-14.5v.

If it's not, turn the engine off, take the meter and put the negative on the battery negative, and the + meter lead on the back of the alternator on the large stud with the large wire on it. What do you get?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 05:15 PM
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fyi
my connector to the voltage regulator was shot.
replaced w part from auto zone... only place that had it...
cheap fix...
might want to check yours !
 
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 05:00 AM
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Has anyone checked the alternators? Most parts stores will do that FREE.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 07:15 PM
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The battery was reading 12.6v with the truck off and 12.4v with the truck on. I went back and checked the wiring. Before if I turn my lights on my voltage gauge would drop a little. I found four wires that had been cut and run together two were yellow one big one small and then two more wires that appeared to be black. One of those is the wire that has an eye to be tightened down on the alternator. they appeared to have worked a little lose So I cut them and put the back together. I went back and turned the truck on and now my volt meter would drop all the way to where it has the d and never come up. So I went and put my old voltage regulator back on. Now my volt meter will drop but with barley climb at idle and climb more when I give it gas
 
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 07:19 PM
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What did the meter say on the large terminal on the back of the alternator? With the truck off.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 07:50 PM
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I couldn't get the meter to read on the alternator. I had it checked it was fine also the voltage regulate is in good shape So by now I'm thinking it has to be wiring
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by rustoleum82
I couldn't get the meter to read on the alternator. I had it checked it was fine also the voltage regulate is in good shape So by now I'm thinking it has to be wiring
If you did not get a reading on the back of the alternator(the large terminal) follow this wire up through the harness. You might have to unwrap it some. You should come across a rubber thing in the wire along the way, this wire is supposed to be connected directly to the battery eventually through all the wiring. If you come across a colored rubber piece, this is a fusible link and is probably burnt out. Replace it with another section of fusible link wire, and you should be good to go.

These links usually burn out when people mess with the alternator without taking the battery loose. One little oops with that wire you checked on the back of the alternator is all it takes to burn that fusible link out.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2015 | 08:40 PM
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I replaced the fusible link with an inline fuse but like an idiot I only put a 20 amp fuse it blew and the wires stared burning in my cab. I replaced it with a 30 amp fuse and it is doing fine. Now. The lights seem to do better but I think I burnt up my gauge because it stays dead center
 
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by rustoleum82
The lights seem to do better but I think I burnt up my gauge because it stays dead center
Did you actually see the amp gauge work before? I never have seen one work on any of the trucks I had. Some people say they can see it move ever so slightly.

P.S. Your alternator is probably at least a 60 amp unit. If the going ever gets tough, like jump starting another vehicle or something like that, your fuse will probably blow again. I would put another fusible link in the wire, or if you want to go to the trouble, a 60 amp mega fuse.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 03:45 PM
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Why would a 20 amp fuse blow, and start wires burning?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 04:47 PM
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Yea the volt gauge worked before and it blew the 30 amp fuse today because the wires going to the solenoid voltage regulater and the plug for the wiring harness all started melting
 
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 04:52 PM
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Because the ammeter is NOT fused, and the alternator can put out more than 20A.

Certainly, as Dave said, messing around with the alternator connections without disconnecting the battery is a good way to pop a fuse.

I have a 175A Megafuse on my 130A alternator.
 
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